littlebrooklyn
Senior Member
I drove the car in S mode instead of C mode today for the first time. Have to say it was nice being able to beat everyone off at the traffic lights for a change
I drove the car in S mode instead of C mode today for the first time. Have to say it was nice being able to beat everyone off at the traffic lights for a change
How much we talking for that ?I'm pondering whether or not to fit a lift in my new garage... I'd only want one that raises up 18-24". Hmmmmm.
Do it!I'm pondering whether or not to fit a lift in my new garage... I'd only want one that raises up 18-24". Hmmmmm.
How much we talking for that ?
I'm sure your other half and I would say you need to complete some of the other jobs first .I have zero idea so far! It won't be on day 1, that's for sure- I have many other priorities beforehand- but I would like to easily be able to do my own ATF and oil changes. I'm guessing £1500 or so.
Right now I'm pondering where my centre lathe and workbench will go. I have a mini machine shop and electronics bay to set up.
And... all that doesn't include the BMW R75/ Dnepr sidecar combination I have in bits awaiting restoration.
I'm sure your other half and I would say you need to complete some of the other jobs first .
Just reappeared from under the car after doing a 5g ATF drain and new filter on the CLK . It was fiddly working on your back with very little space , but it was a nice sunny day to get it all done . I read the DIY section first there is a good thread about the 722.6 transmission . I sheeted the whole area of the drive with a big absorbent pad first which payed dividends when I spilt some oil getting the sump pan off . I used nearly a whole can of brake cleaner getting the pan clean and sparkly again along with the magnet . The new filter went in OK but it took a minute to realise that it goes in at a slight angle because the recess for the tab on the filter isn't square with the hole for the filter neck . The new gasket fitted nicely and held on while I manoevered the pan back into place , the pressure is off then when you get two bolts and spacers back in place to hold the pan up so you can get some feeling back into your arm . I torqued all the sump pan nuts to 8nm and the drain plug to 25nm with a new washer . This should have been to only 20nm but I miss read the wrench in the dark under the car , I ummed and aahed about releasing it and doing it back up to 20nm but thought if I've done any damage I might as well leave it (any advice about this ???) .
All in all a fiddly job but made easier by reading up in advance and having the right tools .
I had suctioned out some ATF and replaced it a few months ago so what came out was in good condition , it was more about changing the filter so I didn't worry about the torque converter being drained . All I need now is for FedEx to deliver my 4 litres of ATF tomorrow so I can replace the 3.5 litres I drained off .
Took 2 hours and cost £50 for Fuchs Titan 4134 and Merc filter,gasket and sump washer .
I do have an eBay dipstick that I use every year to check levels . I will firstly add the 3.5 litres that came out then go for a drive then recheck hot with engine running and in parkDo you intend to check the level once filled or just replace the amount that came out? The reason I ask is that I'm sure Malcolm or someone posted the hot and cold points from the sump in a post. I fashioned my own atf dipstick from the curtain rod type stuff as a belt and braces check up.
Go on Tell us
I had an A180d as a courtesy car earlier this year and the difference between C and S was quite significant - much more so than on my E Class.I drove the car in S mode instead of C mode today for the first time. Have to say it was nice being able to beat everyone off at the traffic lights for a change
Isle of Man, no national speed limit
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If the ferry wasn't so damned expensive I'd be heading over!