Best of the best oil?

Sylar

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Ok community.....

Im buying oil, i want the best i can get, price is irrelevant, what should i feed my w203 c180k 2006?

Super thanks in advanced and sorry for bringing this up :)
 

Frosty149

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What did messers 'Google, Bing and Yahoo' suggest?
I'm guessing the biggest marketing budgets figure high end... Castrol, Mobil, etc, etc ;)

I have some very valuable 'broken in' oil, proven in service on MB's, lovingly caressed by my engine, its available around twice a year in limited quantity (rarity value) - it's very expensive and exclusive!

Let me know if you can step up to it;):D
 

Droverunner

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I'm going to take many more words to say the same as LostKiwi!

Been working on my own vehicles and those of friends and relatives for 44yrs now. Between self and Mrs D we've owned well over 80 vehicles ourselves. I've looked after cars over 30yrs old, Land Rovers 40+ years old, tractors 50+ years old and several motorcycles up to 65yrs old.... some of these vehicles having covered in the range 200k-250k miles. All bar two were on original engines.

For that whole period I've only ever used the best priced oil to meet the spec and not been drawn in by marketing. In my experience of all those vehicles engine lubrication has never been a point of failure related to oil quality however I've dealt with two cars one where constantly running at low oil levels and another where not changing for over 30k miles has given rise to significant wear.

So just meet the spec, avoid very short runs, drive sensibly in the warm up cycle and change yearly... then at your car's current mileage and what you say you expect to do the engine should last well into the electric era.

Edit: Re Bob the oil guy. There is a huge amount of reading on his site and a right load of bull (plus some realistic posts now and again) on the associated forum. However to sum up his own articles he says "I'll not be telling you the best brand" and "meeting specifications is REALLY important".
 
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JBell

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Provided it conforms to MB229.5 spec you need nothing else, plenty of OEM on E-Bay for £50 for 20 liters
 

Wighty

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Provided it conforms to MB229.5 spec you need nothing else, plenty of OEM on E-Bay for £50 for 20 liters
That's how I roll as well buddy :)
 

Wighty

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I would use Mobil 1 but it's just too expensive . What has always interested me would be to see a comparison chart which say compared MB branded oil to Mobil 1 as a percentage .
But I suppose the marketing boys wouldn't like that if it was 98% as good for half the price .
 

Yugguy

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When MB's own brand 229.51 is cheap as chips on ebay I dont see a need to use anything else. I change every 4.5k as well.
 

Wighty

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When MB's own brand 229.51 is cheap as chips on ebay I dont see a need to use anything else. I change every 4.5k as well.
That's what I do as well , I'd just like to know how different oils stack up against each other in an easy to understand study .
 

rf065

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I would use Mobil 1 but it's just too expensive

If you know someone who goes to Costco, it's only £29 for 5 litres. Sometimes it comes up on Ebay about the same price.
Unlike my local petrol station which sells 1 litre bottles for £21.99.

Russ
 

Wighty

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If you know someone who goes to Costco, it's only £29 for 5 litres. Sometimes it comes up on Ebay about the same price.
Unlike my local petrol station which sells 1 litre bottles for £21.99.

Russ
I do have a Costco card , and that is a pretty good price for Mobil 1 , but it's still twice the
Price of MB 229.51 so I can't justify it yet .
 

Yugguy

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Is Mobil 1 really all that good or does it just have the halo effect?
 

rf065

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My understanding is that although 229.51 or whatever is Mercedes spec engine oil, Mobil 1 used to be the only oil recommended for AMG models.

Russ
 

Arudge

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Is Mobil 1 really all that good or does it just have the halo effect?
The likes of Mobil 1 will take a lot more abuse before it starts to break down, heat and shear are the enemy's of oil and if your caning the living daylights out of you engine then that's the stuff to go for. Constant redlining is very demanding on the oil and only the fully synthetics will hold it together.

However......

Most of our cars don't live on the red line let alone rev past 10,000 RPM like some motorcycles do, so the biggest consideration is one of contamination, and the most effective way to avoid that is to keep changing the oil.

personally, i'd buy oil to the spec and change it every 6,000 miles.

Also, bear in mind that the oil isn't just for the engine, it has to be compatible with the exhaust system, that's why we have low ash oils that won't clog your exhaust, hence you must stick to the spec.

It's not like the old days when you could use whatever you liked because you wanted the best, it doesn't work like that any more. You must stick to the spec.
 


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