Here’s some readings , anyone simplify them especially to do with my fault message bas , eps , presa

mercmancdi

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2A0678C1-3277-4B9D-A7B7-354881704558.jpeg 55738911-A0A1-402F-82DD-E3BE825843DB.jpeg C02D6005-7662-45DD-99D3-5C736F3E4F4D.jpeg F8590D89-3C31-42BD-A2DF-C130BEE6E003.jpeg Anyone connect any of these in simple terms to my 3 messages that come and go. Eps , bas , safety warning not active.
Clearing faults but would expect the esp and bas to come back.
Where is bas switch. ?
 

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suspect its because Mercedes built it, when you step up to the flagship - you step up a few thousand rungs on the ladder of fun

might be something simple,
its quite likely something like new batteries, clear the faults, fit new ABS sensors and brake pedal switch and off you go... alternatively

I wonder if any software was updated in its life time, probably not.... and quite likely some would have a beneficial effect

https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-...1/118842-s55-technical-service-bulletins.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/342824-w220-s-class-owners-start-here.html
 
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I fitted brake switch today for the sake of £15 thought it be worth a try
Don’t know to be honest what bas switch is.
 

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I fitted brake switch today for the sake of £15 thought it be worth a try
Don’t know to be honest what bas switch is.
Its probably the BAS travel sensor which is in the brake booster.

Which faults came back after clearing.
 
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Have not been out since was only done this evening , I know the esp and bas came back.
 
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Only tried for about a ml and the esp and bas and safety warning messages came back , but have not got another scan as yet.
Where is the travel sensor located
 
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Its probably the BAS travel sensor which is in the brake booster.

Which faults came back after clearing.

Its probably the BAS travel sensor which is in the brake booster.

Which faults came back after clearing.

If it’s bad travel sensor can it be changed and is that the removal of the brake servo , I can’t get to proper star as car is not on the Rd yet as I wanted to get wheels etc sorted before taxing and insuring , so just using Delphi 150e scanner to try to find the fault.
Is there any reasonable priced reader which shows the faulty part , is icarsoft mb11 obd 2 scanner any better.
 
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suspect its because Mercedes built it, when you step up to the flagship - you step up a few thousand rungs on the ladder of fun

might be something simple,
its quite likely something like new batteries, clear the faults, fit new ABS sensors and brake pedal switch and off you go... alternatively

I wonder if any software was updated in its life time, probably not.... and quite likely some would have a beneficial effect

https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-...1/118842-s55-technical-service-bulletins.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/342824-w220-s-class-owners-start-here.html

Is there right and left side abs brake sensors or do they do either side
 

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mercmancdi

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This is today’s fault codes , correct me if I am wrong but looks like nothing to indicate wheel speed sensors, (your advice please ) Is there anything here with the car driving well that is urgent or likely to put into limp mode Or can anyone tell exactly what the codes are
Where is additional battery at. EA6A6E5B-5F01-401F-994C-7DD8D4D105F6.jpeg 7D822F3C-AE5A-4BA9-A69D-324654233389.jpeg D9947687-0A2C-495B-8258-7DC78B32639B.jpeg 96995818-DA12-4D80-9BFE-B7C8623DC7AA.jpeg
 

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mercmancdi

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Botus

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On the diagram you would think it was fitted below the fluid chamber?


yes looks easy on the picture...

most components are designed to fail to time... (posted lots about this) so second hand isn't a great idea....
with all the other can bus errors…. is it a case of pulling up the carpet and remaking every connection you can find and leaving a nice coating of ACF50 to stop it continuing to corrode (which could be why they are random and so many)?

I found this on one of the codes (no idea if correct).

P2509 ECM/PCM power signal intermittent

I would suggest reducing the frequency of these by having a battery in tip top shape and remaking a few key joints on ECUs would be a good idea.... anyone I suspect could cause your journey to be less fun than you want
 
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yes looks easy on the picture...

most components are designed to fail to time... (posted lots about this) so second hand isn't a great idea....
with all the other can bus errors…. is it a case of pulling up the carpet and remaking every connection you can find and leaving a nice coating of ACF50 to stop it continuing to corrode (which could be why they are random and so many)?

I found this on one of the codes (no idea if correct).

P2509 ECM/PCM power signal intermittent

I would suggest reducing the frequency of these by having a battery in tip top shape and remaking a few key joints on ECUs would be a good idea.... anyone I suspect could cause your journey to be less fun than you want

Thanks I assume the panel is under the passenger side carpet as in E class w211. New battery higher than recommended. Is there a second small battery. If so where ? Where do I get at the ecu connections is it safe to pull off as long as keys are clear of car.
 
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Is the bas sensor any of these ,I have point of screwdriver on each one is short with 4 wire plug in end other is longer with plug on the right hand side ACEC6C80-8327-45A0-AE77-0337F3A597EA.jpeg 42093456-F705-48BB-ABD8-E18383A3DB62.jpeg
 

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Botus

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….. I don't know these cars at all. So can only offer general sensible ? advice.

I wouldn't go disconnecting stuff without the battery/s disconnected… that said, is this as mad an electrical system as the CL500 from 2001 to 2006 if so be very careful about disconnecting anything.... they seem to NEVER come back to life will all modules remembering how to work

as of the BAS sensor... is this not just the bit that says "oh you really do want to brake hard, let me take over" ? this is done by measuring the speed of throttle closed to brakes being applied. (On my fathers w211 of Feb 2006, it has a habit of cutting in during normal driving making the car and utter mess as it over reacts for nothing). If it is, I can imagine in the brake servo might have a sensor.... but is "8" really the bit that puts the brakes on ?
 
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….. I don't know these cars at all. So can only offer general sensible ? advice.

I wouldn't go disconnecting stuff without the battery/s disconnected… that said, is this as mad an electrical system as the CL500 from 2001 to 2006 if so be very careful about disconnecting anything.... they seem to NEVER come back to life will all modules remembering how to work

as of the BAS sensor... is this not just the bit that says "oh you really do want to brake hard, let me take over" ? this is done by measuring the speed of throttle closed to brakes being applied. (On my fathers w211 of Feb 2006, it has a habit of cutting in during normal driving making the car and utter mess as it over reacts for nothing). If it is, I can imagine in the brake servo might have a sensor.... but is "8" really the bit that puts the brakes on ?
 
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It never effects the brakes or steering at all ,,,,the message comes up after a short time ,and goes away every time you stop the car and get back in. I would take it to an indi
but the car is off Rd so to speak and I don’t want to put tax and insurance on it if possible until I am finished
the wheels , and have everything bought to do all the brakes ,and a real good valet inside and out ,
Not that it’s bad but just to get it as pristine as possible.
I am sure there’s people would push reset and drive on , but I want it right.
 


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