Urgent help needed.

John Laidlaw

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Or.....MB Grangemouth 01324 686002 forum discount applies and £5 delivery anywhere in uk
 

joderest

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ML270 2003
Just out of interest what brand battery did you go for. I went for yuasa but wonder if that was a good choice.
 

Flyinspanner

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Yuasa are good, I happened to go for a Bosch S4
 

Submariner1

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Totally agree with changing it. As far as I'm concerned the car's unsafe for as long as there might be a chance something as important as my hazards and indicators don't work.

Given the age and standing voltage output of 11.7v, I'm 95% confident the battery is toast so I've got a new one on order.
Wise move.
11.7V would send a C216 totally nuts! (Despite a perfect alternator 14.2V-14.4V at tickover, and on a short journey up to 14.9V as per the MB spec. ).
Ironically with 11.7V she would start. But she would throw fault codes all over the place.
12.3V seems about as low as one could go.

Anything under 12.4V and shes on the Cteck.

I wouldn't worry at all until you have your nice new battery instslled ( preferably with a full top up charge prior to installation), .... my betting all your woes will evaporate.
 

Wighty

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W211/E320cdi/2009 and CLK200k 2009
When I bourght a battery last year for my E320cdi , MB Grangemouth were cheaper than "ALL" other makes of battery from all sources , I'm sure I paid £124 delivered and it's a big battery for that car .
When I get a new one for my Clk in the next month or so , it will be Grangemouth with no other shopping around .
 

joderest

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The yuasa I bought for the ML was correct spec battery. It was ,£98 delivered off e bay
 
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GermanWhip

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So i went for the Duracell 019 DA95h. £128.99 on euro, punched in Summer70 boom, £77.

5 Year warranty too but i plan to sell up next year for a C63.
 

joderest

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Hmmm, I was told that ECP bought the Duracell name and put it on there budget batteries.
I really do not know how true that is
 
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GermanWhip

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Hi All. So the plot thickens with this one. Firstly, i didn't go Duracell in the end, i went Yuasa from GSF as Euro messed me around.

Anyway, I've had 2 weeks of trouble free motoring on the new battery until this morning! The same thing happened again! This time however i managed to resolve the fault by unplugging the negative terminal for 5 minutes and reconnecting. Hard reset if you like.

I hadn't driven the car since Friday and it's been hot hot hot down here on the south coast. I don't know if this is related but this issue has only started since the recent spell of hot weather.

Does anyone know what a hard reset fix my be indicative of?

Many thanks.
 

star

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All good guesses but they are guesses without getting the faults read, it could be the front sam, ign switch or a can problem. I’ll give you my guess, front Sam, :)
 
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GermanWhip

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Standing Voltage this morning was 12.4v, running was 14.0-14.1v

What does SAM stand for? Fault appears before keys even enter the ignotion. Probably best i get it on a STAR machine....
 

John Laidlaw

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Standing Voltage this morning was 12.4v, running was 14.0-14.1v

What does SAM stand for? Fault appears before keys even enter the ignotion. Probably best i get it on a STAR machine....
Signal acquisition module...and yes get it on Star to see it Star is right? :D (I’m guessing his guesses are good)
 
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GermanWhip

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Signal acquisition module...and yes get it on Star to see it Star is right? :D (I’m guessing his guesses are good)

Sounds expensive. Pretty disappointed if it is given the car has only done 50k.
 

John Laidlaw

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Sounds expensive. Pretty disappointed if it is given the car has only done 50k.
About £150/160 for the front SAM, plus garage labour to fit of course- what I’m not sure on is if these are coded or need to go on Star ? Ian (Star) will advise..I’m thinking it will since it’s the front
 
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GermanWhip

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Update guys. Took it to my garage and had it on the Star machine. Turns out that i have U113E00 - Communication with the battery sensor has a malfunction.

The problem happend again this morning so i disconnected the negative, wiggled it and it worked again. Looks like a wire may have been damaged maybe and it could be going open circuit hence why wiggling it fixed the problem.

Does anyone know why this fault doesn't come up on the OBD scan?
 

LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
Does anyone know why this fault doesn't come up on the OBD scan?
If you're using a generic or non Mercedes specific scanner it can only read a very limited subset of codes available.
Every car uses generic and manufacturer specific codes. A generic reader will only read generic codes as it won't be able to interpret the manufacturer specific ones correctly.
STAR of course is the MB scanner so will read everything.
 
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GermanWhip

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If you're using a generic or non Mercedes specific scanner it can only read a very limited subset of codes available.
Every car uses generic and manufacturer specific codes. A generic reader will only read generic codes as it won't be able to interpret the manufacturer specific ones correctly.
STAR of course is the MB scanner so will read everything.

Thanks. Makes sense.

Just had a quick look at the battery sensor. Turns out the two wire sensor that pushes into the Neg connection wasn't properly secured, as in the sensor clip isn't engaged! It just litterally fell out!

No idea how that has happened. Never been near the battery until this fault occured!

Just unpluugged it completely and left it standing for a while to see if that produces the error :)
 


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