Something far wrong there! It could easily be rod knock or something amiss in the top-end as you suggest....or it might even be both if there has been an incident of oil starvation.
Removing that engine is not a job for the faint-hearted and even then you still need to find a suitable...
Probably not much help, but I've had 2 C Class W205s with Burmeister systems. The first car had quite a bad water leak into the boot which got fixed under warranty and had probably been there for a while before I got the car. Fortunately, the leak didn't reach the amplifier. The other car was...
+1 for Blobcat! I had a leak on my 2014 C Class that was traced to the boot lid seal which was replaced under warranty. MB in Glasgow had the car for 3 days before they found it, though so I was glad the problem was their's rather than mine!
Ernie
This is a seven-year-old thread, so I doubt if you'll get an answer! However, you may already have brake lights that flash under heavy braking . Maybe worth checking your spec sheet for adaptive brake lights.
Ernie
Thank you for the suggestion. Norton advised me that they could not quote competitively for my car...and that was without any detail other than my name, postal code and Car Reg No!
For some reason, this is par for the course with brokers, for me, now.
For info, I've gone to Admiral, although...
Just to round off this thread, there was no damage found on my car , so that was the end of that.
However, I foolishly informed my insurers, for their 'information', of the incident which they recorded. This pushed my renewal up by around £200; so not very happy as I now have to declare it to...
Mine more than doubled with LV to £1336 from last year. OK, I'm 81 with an at-fault accident last year, but Aviva wanted £2545. It looks like I'll go with Admiral at around £850 depending on the level of cover.
Ernie
Its time to renew my insurance....
As I found last year, I'm not finding brokers too helpful in getting competitive prices for the Audi Q2 eg
Ageas through Cornmarket: £2619
Ageas through Comparethemarket (CTM): £1276, on a comparable basis.
It looks like I'm going to go with Admiral at...
Thank you for that advice; it is useful information to have, both now and for myself and others who find themselves in this situation in the future.
Thank you too, to all who have contributed to this thread. I will update the outcome of what, if any damage there is to my towbar after Tuesday...
The garage check's outcome will depend on what action I will need to take. I've just remembered that I might have legal assistance, which I will use if there is damage that needs repair, to recover costs up to my excess.
Regarding the Road Traffic Act, clearly that still stands and the info you...
@LOST Kiwi: Further to my comment in #5, I should have said that early on I mentioned that I would need her details, but they said they would let me have them; they even asked for my email, so I didn't push any further.
Hopefully, if the check comes back OK, I won't need them!
As I said...
Thanks for the reply. By the time I had arrived, the police were already dealing with her and getting her details; the other guy then took mine. When the insurance issue was discovered, she was escorted to their car and I was told to go.
Ernie
Here's one for the experts...
While parked in a lay-bye today (in my absence) an elderly lady bumped into the rear of my car. When I returned to the car, the police were already there. There was no apparent damage to my car as the tow bar had taken the hit. Her car will need a bumper and grille...
I doubt if you'll find anybody here who will be able to help with that as even garages seem to struggle with EV faults! Presumably, you know something about electrics as you are still here?
Ernie
It would be much safer and easier to purchase a wiring kit specific to your car and then have it coded. The kit will plug directly into the rear SAM and give you most of the facility had it been installed as OE. The kits are available from any tow-bar manufacturer, eg, Witter, Tow Trust, etc...
The springs on my Hormann Retractable door are at end of life and I need to replace them. These are the triple extension springs located at either side and are pre-loaded.
I'm wondering if anybody here has done that and if so how did you go about relieving the tension and resetting the tension...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.