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OK. I have now 100% identified that the source of the leak is a rusted transmission cooling pipe. It is in fact all rot near the fitting plug with the front radiator (the lower one - see pic). Just to make my job a bit easier could I ask someone to provide me with the following info: 1. Part...

Thank you for highlighting this important H&S point. I totally agree - anytime I have done anything underneath the car I use wheel chocks, lift it with the hydraulic jack and then use jackstands to secure it in position.

Many thanks ! It is clean reddish oil. You are right, most probably transmission. It will require changing rusted oil cooler pipes and then refilling transmission oil. I think it is too much of a task for me … all too difficult unless you can lift the car up properly (not just jack up the front...

Hello. I know this is an old post - will still give it a try My 2003 SL350 just had a massive oil leak this morning. I am almost certain it is a rusty pipe as I touch and feel with my hand. any advise about changing this? is it likely engine oil or transmission? Can you just access raising the...

I have done recently the equivalent of this when replacing the boot auxiliaries battery. I don’t think the starter battery feeds the BCM under ignition key off conditions. Thanks anyways.

Hi raj, wonderful comments. I already did the F52s both the 100 and 200 amp. Tedious access. Was convinced it was that - my surprised when I verified that both fuses were OK (took them out and measured with an Ohm meter) I will check 32, 33, and will try to inspectK57 and K75. I have the...

The reason to inspect the BCM (open the metal cover) is to check for the possibility that there is a blown pcb mounted fuse. I have in the past come across electronic controllers that stopped working because of blown pcb mounted fuses. Of course, it is quite possible I take the cover and find...

Thanks for all your comments. matIh,míoba the front battery is new - it never gets any charging current. LostKiwi, I would fear embarking in your “voltage sensitive relay”. I think I would probably cause lots of collateral damage when having to splice and rework the wiring harnesses, plus I...

Thanks mioba+LostKiwi. A salvage module is between £400 / £500. It is not the kind of money I fancy spending unless I am certain it’ll get the issue fixed. In my experience, semiconductors don’t fail - failures I have seen on modules are generally due to internal pcb mounted fuses, corroded...

I wonder if the way the problem manifests gives a hint of the root cause: Car operates well from ignition start. After approx 30min/40min the red battery fault at the IP turns on. Stays on until I reset with the iCarsoft i980. One way to avoid the red-light coming on is to stop the car before...

Agree. Still appreciate mattkh's input.

Thanks. As mentioned earlier, I have re[lace and fitted new batteries. Both batteries recharge beautifully. The rear battery is charged by the car alternator during normal running. The front one I recharge externally every few weeks.

Agree. Still I suppose iCarsoft i980 is providing me with some relevant information. As I mentioned to peterws, I would love to be able to test the battery control module to ascertain whether air not it is the root cause of this problem. Other problems I have found in the past with this car...

I did check the alternator and actually replaced the regulator - the graphite bars in the old one were still OK. That was definitely not the problem (the boot battery recharges beautifully - the problem is only with the starter battery, the one at the engine compartment.) I replaced the starter...

Hi Shoey. I wonder if you found a solution for this problem. I have been experiencing the same in my SL350. Car runs and rear battery gets recharged. Front battery doesn't. The way the problem manifests is that after approx 30 min the battery light in the dashboard turns on. I have checked the...

Agree with Alex. A) the old regulator’s brushes were 1/2 way worn B) the new regulator had brand new brushes, and I still replaced it (even though the old one was still right). To me, the real question is: why does the red battery light comes on only after 45 min that the car is running? (it...

Here are a couple of pics I took On the alternator I did fit a brand new Bosch regulator. Rear battery recharges fine. I will check tomorrow voltages to both batteries with engine off and engine on to doublecheck (thanks AMGeed)

I haven’t. I will. But what it is intriguing is that the red light only comes on accurately 45 min (approx) after start.

I also replaced the voltage regulator about mo ago (the old one was a bit worn still looked good)

I exchanged the battery just a couple of months ago as the old one was tired and did let me down a couple of times. What it always does same all the time: red light comes on approx 45 min after start (then stays on until reset with the OBD terminal). If running less time, it doesn’t come on.