2010 E350 HIGH IDLE, NOT LETTING ME GO ABOVE 3000 RPM

[Nick Wood]

True, but.... When you put it in say 3th gear and you put your foot down it will go to the rev-limiter without a problem, only if you try to over-rev it it will shift up by itself.

In this case it shifts up at 3000rpm no matter what

 

[Quaver]

What is the process after a thermostat change guys? Do I let the engine run for a certain amount of time first?

 

[LostKiwi]

You top up the coolant. Run it till the engine gets warm (with cap off the coolant tank). Top it up and job done.

 

[Quaver]

so when I'm in M mode it means i have to use the paddle shift and i have always been able to red line it without any problems. so in this case where it is changing on its own at 3000rpm definitely isn't normal.

adding to this i ended up trying to get the part from euro car parts and they tried giving me a incorrect part (not the first time) as it didn't have a gasket on it and no sensor plug. so i will have to try to find one on ebay or order 1 from MB now.

 

[Nick Wood]

First off, give me the OE-part number and I'll see if I can find it in Germany, Holland or France. When I do I send you the link. May very well be a lot cheaper.

Second, don't throw money at it when it might not be necessary. The thermostat may solve the problem.

Third, when the car is stationary (in P) can you rev the engine over the 3000rpm limit? No short bursts, bring it gradually up to revs, if it goes up to 4000rpm there is something else wrong. I'd advise you try this when the engine is warm.

If that's the case have it diagnosed with STAR.

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

As the car is not that old I'd stick with genuine parts

 

[Nick Wood]

I don't see the point, you mean an older car is fine with an aftermarket one but a newer one isn't? A thermostat won't depreciate the value of the car unless it's not working. Just my opinion.

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

I don't see the point, you mean an older car is fine with an aftermarket one but a newer one isn't? A thermostat won't depreciate the value of the car unless it's not working. Just my opinion.

My opinion was based on how long you expect the part to last, unfortunately the op has already been messed around by ECP which is another pitfall

 

[Nick Wood]

I do understand the way you're thinking, technically (and this has been stated before in this topic) an OE part does not necessarily lasts longer as an aftermarket one would.

Just don't get anything that's produced by Meyle or Mapco. Both are (very) low end German aftermarket / imitation brands.
( I once put a brand new Mapco hardy-disk, also called a doughnut, in between the gearbox and driveshaft which goes to the rear axle. After 3000 miles it looked like an exploded birds nest. Needless to say it had to be replaced with an OE one.)

For certain parts I'd absolutely go with OE or better, that would be suspension, steering and brakes. If need be, engine internals (like rings, valve seals and bearings) as well as certain parts of the drive train (Gearbox internals and torque converters to name a few).

For everything that's on the outside of an engine or bolted on I just look for the best quality/price ratio.
Mind you, I do rebuild sophisticated and state of the art (V8) engines equipped with vanos or valvetronic technology from the bottom up and never had problems doing it this way. Not even after 100.000 miles.

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

Over the years I've come to the conclusion that some parts just aren't worth fitting unless genuine and water pumps fit into that category as they can't easily be replaced, saving money by doing the labour myself was enough reward. There are numerous manufacturers out there producing items not fit for purpose so buyer beware is my rule

Just my opinion as you say

 

[Nick Wood]

And respected from my side as well!

Water pumps are a whole different thing, I'd say let's stay on-topic and save that discussion for later.

 

[Quaver]

So after removing a pipe that was in the way and a lot of fiddling with the long screw Underneath the thermostat I managed to get it off and replaced. It seems like it has sorted out the temperature issue and the power is back both in E and M mode but it is still idling at around 800-900 rpm even though the car is at 90 degrees. The car does idle at 600 rpm when car is switched on but as soon as I start driving it goes up and stays there. I did take it for a spin on the motorway in case the dpf got clogged during this time but still no luck.

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

Good news about the thermostat which will help with DPF cycle and consumption

I'd let the car settle down for a few weeks before pursuing the high idle and if it doesn't return to 600rpm in that time take the car in to a local Indy for STAR diagnosis

 

[Quaver]

I will give it a couple days and see how it goes. Will check if it needs more coolant later aswell. Just want to double check about the coolant level, does it just need to be covering the white bit? Because there's a line on the black bit above

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

There is a possibility the car might need a few restarts to clear the problem so wise to leave it a few days. It might also be worth disconnecting the battery for 30mins to see if that resets the ECU.

 

[Quaver]

So I have left the car to settle for a couple of days and she is now back to roaring form. Seemed just to go back to normal idling after putting my foot down but idles normally at all times now. Thanks guys good and accurate advice

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

Pleased you've got it sorted, did you fit a genuine part in the end?

 

[Quaver]

Pleased you've got it sorted, did you fit a genuine part in the end?

Yes I will be planning on keeping the car for a while so thought I will just fork out a extra 50 odd quid and get it from MB, plus I fitted it myself anyway so saved about a hours or 2 labour

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

Yes I will be planning on keeping the car for a while so thought I will just fork out a extra 50 odd quid and get it from MB, plus I fitted it myself anyway so saved about a hours or 2 labour

I would have done the same I've had some bad experiences with non MB parts