uummmm...
I had the BM R1200 GS bike with an almost identical unit fail twice... (its a 57 plate bike) £250 fix by ECU testing guaranteed for life.... it went again 2 years later... they were very good and sorted FOC... ( but its a 5 hr job to get it off the bike !!!). When I said are you 100% positive you fixed BOTH DTF faults the first time? they assured me they had.... but the second time it came back they had clearly done the pump motor brush fix, which it wasn't clear they had first round !!!
one) is the link wires fall off the circuit board from the connector plug (the exact DTF fault my Omega had)
two) is the brush seizure issue, as per the video link I posted)
My other DTF BMW K1300 (I got approved used - and still in warranty !!!) a 2010 bike. When first got it I plugged it in I can see the ABS module was replaced Jan 2017. yesterday went in limp mode !!!! traction control gone mental.... when I plugged that in this morning " 2786 Front wheel speed from ABS implausible "
I'll check the earth and maybe remake the main harness connection on my S class (at least this is a 20 min job to get at...)
uummmm...
My other DTF BMW K1300 (I got approved used - and still in warranty !!!) a 2010 bike. When first got it I plugged it in I can see the ABS module was replaced Jan 2017. yesterday went in limp mode !!!! traction control gone mental.... when I plugged that in this morning " 2786 Front wheel speed from ABS implausible "
Virtually had an identical set of warnings .
Only mine had the words
Parking brake ( in red)
See owners manual
And then got Abs and esp unavailable
And got FR and RR and RL sensor readings are implausible.
Very intererested in your theory, that its actually the FL thats out of kilter with the other three. Rather than the 3 being toast.
Someone told me the FL is the one that tells the ABS the speed of the car or something like that.
Just out of interest Alex
What is your voltage immediately after opening your door to get in?
And if you just went up to her having not been driven for a few hours, what voltage would you see in pos1 of ign. ?After driving, about 12.5 on the dash with ignition on.
my park brake also went a bit mental 2 weeks ago ! had a few red messages, it then released itself as I got in the car and turned the key, when I reapplied it wouldn't auto release !!! did it manually and I drove off, no more agro. Then shorty after I had pad wear indicator come on. This I believe is real, as I knew they were getting low. And its been on each journey since.
The other odd thing was when I parked up when I got back home a few hours later (after it released itself when I turned the key on), was that it wouldn't apply the park brake. I had to try again and this time it worked.
At the time I thought it was the pad wear upsetting stuff, but with you guys having issues its probably not pad wear but something failing?
And if you just went up to her having not been driven for a few hours, what voltage would you see in pos1 of ign. ?
Just asked as when I had all the initial faulty battery issues, Malcolm (Television ) PMed me and said one really needed 12.5V as a minimum.