Aftermarket SatNav+reverse camera+parking sensors

[adyuaic]

right guys, so I took the media unit out for measurements, and here are my findings:

https://i.imgur.com/6TBOPOw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/h7M7Yae.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Rfi6Mo1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sFjjawd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UzGpmm2.jpg

I've asked a couple of shops on ebay, and at least 3 have replied saying I should go ahead with oval-shaped one, but mine is either Quadrate or Trapezoidal shape? So I don't know which one fits properly.

M80, the one provided by you says it's not compatible with my car?

 

[M80]

Sorry your right, my link was for a pre facelift 203.
I should have read your 1st post again as the age of your makes it post facelift.

In my defence your honour I did say to check the shape, and it's good that you have.

When I've a little time I'll see if I can link up the correct HU.

 

[adyuaic]

No worries mate, I had a look yesterday evening on a link on ebay, and I saw there are 3 shapes , which obviously I didn't know.

Changing the subject, I have now an answer from a garage, the aircon doesn't work because there's a hole in the radiator (as far as I understood), and everything to be fixed (regas, replacing the radiator, etc) it costs aprox 350£. Is it expensive, or fair (cheap I don't think it is) ?

 

[M80]

Regas generally £55 - £60.
Condensor (radiator) at a guess £130 cheapest.

If it's a job similar to my Viano to remove £150ish labour isn't silly.

Some of these refills can have a tell tale dye to make future leaks easier to spot, it may be worth understanding if their refill does.
Their machine will vacuum drain, not that it will need that,
and pressurise the system for a period to check for integrity, prior to pumping in the new refrigerant.

Mine had this done but the machine failed to spot that it had a leak, so the new refrigerant was leaked to destroy more of the ozone.

 

[adyuaic]

I found these on a quick search (once again, not sure if that's the part - I'm going to find out at 5):

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/aks-dasis...SgY_nKtNJH-_8BCZRlRoCJHkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

So taking your numbers into consideration, roughly, it seems a fair price, doesn't it?

 

[M80]

Android 8.0 DAB+Radio Car Stereo GPS Sat Nav Bluetooth MP3 Mercedes C-Class W203 | eBay

I'm not familiar with this seller, but the ad looks like erisin to me so maybe just another sales tactic employed by them.
By looking you may find the same cheaper, but don't be tempted to buy from China and be sure there is a UK return address.
Any customs charges destroy any price advantage and if they demand you return to China if faulty there is a whole list of problems possible. A return to a UK address with tracked postage and eBay should refund you 'if faulty'.

I see you measure your width at 16cm, theirs is 17cm. I would check yours as these are made to be a straight fit.

 

[M80]

I've just checked 3 double DIN units, not MB however,
and they are all close to 17.5 cm width.

 

[M80]

8" Android 8.0 DAB Car Stereo Mercedes BENZ C/CLK-Class W203 W209 CLC 8-Core GPS | eBay

Cheaper and definitetly erisin.

Don't tell them I sent you mind, they don't like me any more.

 

[adyuaic]

I'm not willing to buy it from China anyway, exactly for the mentioned points. Easier and better to handle it locally.
Cheers mate!
So do you reckon that this will fit properly? I'm going to double check anyway

 

[M80]

I would be amazed if it didn't slide straight in,
and connect easily with all required connections. The only issue are those with MOST, then I don't think these can be adapted.
Be ready for manipulating the mass of wiring behind the HU.

Check your cars width is around 18cm.
TBH I don't check the double DIN sizes just the facia compatibility.

 

[adyuaic]

The metal box behind original facia is 18cm width, so it should be alright I think.
How should I proceed with rear camera cable?

 

[ZZZZ]

I routed all input receptacles into the glove box, whether for current use (rear and side cameras) or for any future additions - so I won't have to remove the head unit again, just to change something.
Don't forget to label each wire - those cute cable ties, with little write-on badges are ideal ...

 

[M80]

Rear cameras generally come as a kit.
Camera, coax cable and maybe hole saw. The coax cable can transmit +12 volt from the reverse light feed, but with the canbus controller of the HU you shouldn't need that.

Mount camera, pick up 12v +ve from reverse lights within rear light cluster for camera power.

(There may be an alternative to the previous sentence.
The ad shows '1. Back Car Control', this may well be powered +12v by the HU when canbus sees reverse selected, if that tests out as so then the coax could feed the camera from the HU rather than 12v from the rear light cluster??)

Feed coax forward to HU, plug in and tape the connection for increased reliability. Set up camera for angle if need be.
I usually feed the coax within the roof lining and drop it down the A pillar, then behind one side of dash (usually n/s) to the HU.

Before camera installation to confirm can bus is seeing reverse when selected. Check correct option within HU menu for reverse, may need to select mirror also, you decide if you want ruler but could be useful in this test.
If with ignition on and reverse selected HU goes to blank screen (or ruler) the canbus has told the HU to go to reverse mode.
You might try the Back Car Control cable for 12v at this point.

 

[ZZZZ]

I would also add to the very thorough guide above, sometimes a voltage stabiliser might be required, when powered from reverse light - these are about £2 - £3 from eBay. I didn't need one, but bought it just in case - if there's no interference, flickering, etc then you don't need it.

 

[adyuaic]

I think I'm going to take it to a specialist in this case
Thanks a lot! Very useful info

 

[M80]

You could give it ago, it seems to me that if you can remove the old you are capable enough.
We are here for more help anyway.

Where are you based?

 

[ZZZZ]

Hear - hear!

 

[adyuaic]

The only thing which I wouldn't handle it myself (in order not to broke anything) is the rear camera installation (power supply part). Except that, yes, I'm going to do it myself for the satnav unit and rear camera (physically).

Tonight I have removed the rear trims (whole beige one's, including on pillars) because it rattles quite a lot and noisy, and I thought that some clips are missing, but I was wrong. Therefore, what can I add in order to stop the rattle and have it without any noises? Maybe some upholstery sponge? Or is there something like rubber which can be added to the plastic trim?
Btw, some of the previous owners did an awful job by adding something like window silicon. I've cleaned it up, but I still have to find a fix for the rattle.







I'm based in Swindon Mon-Fri, and Dudley over weekends.

Thank you both so much. Very helpful and friendly, I'm glad to be part of this community .

 

[ZZZZ]

Some clips might be too brittle, and missing one of the 'legs' - won't be apparent without closer look.
Also, some clips would have a rubber band, and that can go walkies too.

In both cases you'd get a slight movement, where it shouldn't be any, hence - noise.

I'd have a look at all [potential] mounting points - and corresponding clip holders on the trim - there bound to be some discrepancies - mine didn't rattle at all, and I found three missing, when I was fitting the rear cam.

 

[M80]

If I find I'm going to be near I'll give you a shout.

The metal clips can lose their spring, they can be flared again with snipe nosed pliers.
I've used carpet underlay to insulate, it is a sponge if water gets to it though.
An LK suggestion but for my boat is Celotex, less flexible but I'm aiming to use where feasible.