AMG caliper bolts C63 C204

PhilH

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Anyone got a suggestion how to remove the upper caliper fixing bolt as the stabiliser link is in the way. Do I have to remove the stabiliser link first? It doesn't mention this in WIS.
80c1e01c35e06e6a9099e68c28027f2e.jpg


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Droverunner

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I don't have experience specific to your car but have found similar with others in the past. Usually a combination of moving the steering from side to side and/or jacking the hub with a second jack will move the link rod to a position to get a 1/2" drive in. If not an offset ring spanner may work but it will need to be a snug fit and good quality to thump with a lump hammer (or get a bit of tube over to extend) as the torque figure is high on these bolts.
 

Submariner1

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Had a similar issue with one of my rear brake caliper bolts.
IMG_4606.JPG
Just using a socket was impossible, the TW head hit the top of the lower suspension U shaped suspension strut. Using a 3" extension pushed the wrench head into the suspension strut.

Officially to tighten it, one should use a Spigot Torque wrench with an offset ring spanner fitting.
Like this.
IMG_4208.JPG Problem is the spigot TW is £79 and the ring spanner in 18mm is £41!

Luckily using a 15 degree 2" offset cleared it (but it was still just touching the plastic shroud on the U section) to allow a normal torque wrench. i.e. It it put the TW head in the middle of the U .... note using a normal 2" extention meant the bar just clipped the top of the U section so the socked didn't go on square. ( not sensible at high torque values)
Of course the 15 degree change would effect the torque setting ... by adding extra leverage so I set it at 155, not 160 Nm.
IMG_4286.JPG

Looking at yours I think you would need a huge ring spanner and the spigot TW to tighten.
I think mine were 160 Nm so thats pretty tight. Due to the difficult access, I had to use the shorter 200Nm TW, I admit I asked my neighbour ( plays rugby ) to help (at the same time) pull it up so it clicked at 160Nm ... couldnt do it on my own. :(

A real pain re multiple shopping trips, trying deep socket, then 3" then 2" extensions and finanlly ordered the 15 degree 2" offset.
Of course on mine the rears are 18mm and the fronts are 21mm heads so in terms of going the spigot tw, thats £82 for too "sockets".
 
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Droverunner

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Of course much of the decision is based on how long the links have been fitted. When I worked on my old 5-series front suspension immediately after purchase with 12yr old links I had to cut them off with an angle grinder. But last week to do a wheel bearing those 3yr old links came off easily so would be easier than faffing with special/expensive sockets etc.
 
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PhilH

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Thanks to both of you for your help. The car is only 2 1/2 years old so might have a go at moving the link out of the way. Hopefully I can get away with just undoing the top of the link from the torsion bar.

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Submariner1

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Thanks to both of you for your help. The car is only 2 1/2 years old so might have a go at moving the link out of the way. Hopefully I can get away with just undoing the top of the link from the torsion bar.

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Worth spraying them with that wd40 penetrating oil and waiting 10 mins ... it works :):)
Even my rusty suspension bolts (after 3 years by the sea) came off like butter ( luckily the covered thread parts were still the galvanised silver colour.)
 

Steve@Avantgarde

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I just use a flexi head ratchet spanner...most of the time its having the right tools at your disposal to do the job.

After 20+ years of doing this job I still haven't got everything, you always need something.
 

Droverunner

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>>>After 20+ years of doing this job I still haven't got everything, you always need something.

It gets better... after 43yrs working on cars I rarely have to go out for "how do you get this off" tools**. My main socket set is still the one Mrs D bought me 40yrs ago as an early birthday present after I'd just bought a P6 Rover V8 that needed camshaft replacement. I add stuff several times a year as it's surprising how often a particular socket/spanner from one set or another will get you out of trouble... sometimes ground or cut down.

**Special car/job specific tools obviously a different matter.
 

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