Best prewash method for prewashing a car smoothered in brick dust?

[V6Matty]

Invest in a hose attached snow foam lance, about £30 including some foam.

Bought one myself a few months ago and it's surprisingly good, got two lots of 5L snowflake included for £38 delivered off amazon

 

[John Laidlaw]

Invest in a hose attached snow foam lance, about £30 including some foam.

Bought one myself a few months ago and it's surprisingly good, got two lots of 5L snowflake included for £38 delivered off amazon

Did it have serviceable parts Matt?

 

[C350Carl]

Has anyone asked what condition the paintwork was like before? Has it been recently polished and waxed?
If so I'm guessing it would hose the majority off pretty easily as I find nothing sticks after a waxing with B+H doublespeed.

Then I'd be following the advice from the experts for washing after that.

The situation Peter found happen (car damp with early morning dew, the fallout landing on the wet car and then baking in the sun) you will probably find that with all but the strongest ceramic coatings it would stick.

 

[AnthonyUK]

The situation Peter found happen (car damp with early morning dew, the fallout landing on the wet car and then baking in the sun) you will probably find that with all but the strongest ceramic coatings it would stick.

I'm not so sure. I've seen bird shite that even when baked on simply wipes off so assume it would easily be hosed off too but better to be safe than sorry if in any doubt.

 

[C350Carl]

I'm not so sure. I've seen bird shite that even when baked on simply wipes off so assume it would easily be hosed off too but better to be safe than sorry if in any doubt.

I've been detailing cars a fair while so have some experience. You'd be surprised at what fallout remover will show up on a car that appears to be clean.

 

[Submariner1]

Has anyone asked what condition the paintwork was like before? Has it been recently polished and waxed?
If so I'm guessing it would hose the majority off pretty easily as I find nothing sticks after a waxing with B+H doublespeed.

Then I'd be following the advice from the experts for washing after that.

It was clayed, then a coat if AG SRP and then 2 coats of Collonite 467 in November.
It was just beggining to not bead quite so well and ironically was planed to re- collonite it this weekend. I.e. catch it, just before it was worn off.

Being in a hard water area, after the final rinse I blast it with a garden leaf blower ( purely reserved for the car) until last week even on a dry day, it would dry off with no haze. This week it wasnt wuite so effective so realised time to rewax it.


Looks like above , excuse the shadows
You can still see some of the shine under this.
I rinsed a small 3” section and wiped it with a wet microfibre cloth and it still feels very slightly “greasy” so there is some wax left but not a lot.

They finish the roof on Sunday. I need the car reasonably clean on Tuesday, so not enough time to get a Foam lance by then.

I am undecided whether to rinse it today with a hot water garden hose gun, then spray some AG body shampoo on it, wait a while and then Karcher it from a fair distance to get some of this off.
And then blow dry it.

With a view to repeating on Sunday after they finish.
I.e. have two gentle goes.

Obviously waiting for the wool mitt, and the foam lance before washing the body and claying it properly.

Or it might be better to leave it till they finish on Sunday.
Two goes might be better, but it might take off some Collonite.
Bit of a dichotomy!

 

[JBell]

I am undecided whether to rinse it today with a hot water garden hose gun, then spray some AG body shampoo on it, wait a while and then Karcher it from a fair distance to get some of this off.
And then blow dry it.

Just wash the car!!!!!!!!!

 

[Capra]

Just go for it, you've got to clean it. Surely a jetwash will remove with minor issues.

 

[L John]

Did someone mention a sponge?

 

[Capra]

Did someone mention a sponge?

Now that I've used the wool mit I would never use a sponge again. In fact, before I joined here I was using a synthetic version.
When I last had my car cleaned at one of these places that clean the car (almost) quickly, I remember them dropping cloths etc on the floor and carrying on.

 

[V6Matty]

Did it have serviceable parts Matt?

It can be taken apart to an extent John and the filter does seem to come out but I haven't had much chance to fiddle to be honest! From Pro-Kleen IIRC

 

[Submariner1]

Just wash the car!!!!!!!!!

Well that would be a truly dumb idea.
Spent 1 hour with a normal hot water spray gun. That rinsed off the most , cold water had little effect.
I then sprayed it with a strong solution of AG body shampoo and kept it wet for about half an hour , adding more sprayed solution, and then spent 2 hours Karchering it at about 2 meters, with a 600L / hour low pressure Pro Karcher. 130 bar operating pressure, 190 max peak power.
Cos I live in a hardwater area it was essential to then blow off the water with a air blower.
Instead of the usual gleaming glass like glossy paint. If you feel it , its like super fine abrasive paper, and dries matte!

I think if one used a mitt or a sponge god forbid! It Would be a really bad idea.
The rough feel is a mix of fine cement tile dust mixed with diamond cutter dust .. dont get much worse for generating micro scratches !

IMO one needs something like Carl and John suggested to lift that abrasive dust off and then use a mitt to wash it off.

The previously glass like perfect finish, is now somewhat akin to that horrible matte wrapped look.

Definitely buying the Karcher foam lance, and a good wool mitt.

Whats the best Foam liquid?

 

[Submariner1]

Just hose it off...so much drama for an everyday problem.

Tell me is it just personal or are you truly that thick!
I bet school was a huge challenge

 

[LostKiwi]

 

[Naraic]

Sweet and salty?^

 

[keefysher]

I'll have a half full glass of white to go with those.

Is it a feature film, a drama or a crisis?

 

[L John]

Tell me is it just personal or are you truly that thick!
I bet school was a huge challenge

Judging by the like he put on your post, I do believe he really is that thick skinned.

 

[LostKiwi]

I'll have a half full glass of white to go with those.

Is it a feature film, a drama or a crisis?

No wine sorry.
Got beer....

 

[John Laidlaw]

Hehe- was busy last night sorry I missed this!
Peter it sounds like you will have to get some professional detailer to sort this with all respect, I worry about what’s next with that abrasive dust
The neighbours builder has been decent enough to admit responsibility so you need to corner him before Sunday with an idea from your local detailer what needs done and cost
Why should you be doing it after all?
It’s going to need some flatting and correction by the sound of it and looking at the pic it’s the right time anyway so win win hopefully not at your expense

 

[C350Carl]

Ok to help a few out on here that don't necessarily understand the issue Peter is facing.

There isn't a wax or sealant on the market that will stop industrial fallout, baked onto a damp car in the sun, from sticking to the car.

The only coatings that will stand a chance are the proper Ceramic Coatings (Gyeon Mohs+ and Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra). But some fallout would still remain in this instance even on those! Part of the reason for developing these coatings is because of the comparative lack of performace by Waxes & Sealants

The only way you are going to guarantee removal (outside of machine polishing) is the process that I detailed in one of my earlier posts.

Pressure washing a car doesn't remove fallout or tar. Not unless you have one that is so powerful that you start to damage the paintwork with it! Hence there are dedicated Tar and Fallout removers (some are even combined). A pressure washer has a hard job or removing road grime and tree sap so if you think it will remove baked on industrial fallout you are sadly mistaken. It may be good enough for your particular standard but for mine (and others like Peter etc) who like the car to look as immaculate as possible then it isn't.

The thing with a pressure washer is people make the assumption that more pressure means better cleaning. Whilst pressure is a factor the key part is flow volume. A 120bar PW flowing 500ltr/hr will provide better cleaning than a 140bar PW flowing 400ltr/hr.

Peter's car is probably going to need to be coated with a fallout remover (Iron-X, Dragons Breath, GTechniq W6 etc) to help remove the contaminants. The idea behind this (and the process I detailed) is to remove as much as possible before rubbing a wash mitt (or clay) all round the car. Otherwise he may as well go and clean it with Wire Wool as it will look like he has anyway!

Fot those wanting a decent foam lance. This is the one i have and is easily serviceable. Just make sure you choose the correct connector for your pressure washer

https://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/i...heavy-duty-foam-lance-various-connectors.html

Snowfoam that will actually dwell and help in these situations

https://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/i...aning/prewash-dirt-bug-removers/magifoam.html

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/bilt-hamber-auto-foam

Fallout Removers. Whole host of them to chose from here.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/exterior/paint-contamination/iron-fallout#page=1&top=844&

Bug, Tar, Tree Sap etc removers

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/exterior/paint-contamination/bug-tar-glue

This is the only clay I recommend as it doens't need anything other than water and it works very very well. I've tried loads of different makes over the years and this does what it says on the tin.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/bilt-hamber-auto-clay-medium-200g.

Car Shampoo is personal choice. Again I've tried a few and found this to be one of the best out there.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sonax-gloss-shampoo-concentrate

Links are from Clean Your Car as I know they stock most things. Do your own research to find cheaper/better deals.