Buying early 2000s SLK. Looking for Rust. Tips please.

[tom1981]

Dear Mercedes All-knowing/All-seeing forum members,

I stumbled across some very helpful and interesting forum posts on here regarding Mk1 SLKs and problems with rust. I was hoping for some advice on approaching buying a second hand mk1 (06-2004) SLK. Specifically the facelift version. I'm looking for a R170 2002-2004 model. I am aware I need to be on the look out for rust problems.

I'm looking to buy a MK1 as I always loved the lean, simple shape of the late 90s SL and SLK class (before the rounded merc headlights and shape came) in when I was younger as a teen and think its aged beautifully. Asking around and reading user reviews on Auto Trader, the car has a generally pretty great write up as a second hand buy. I live in central-east london too and if I'm going to have a convertible, its going to need a metal roof, as my manor isn't particularly safe and it'll be parked on the street. I'm also looking at the 2 litre model as insurance for me is high and as my last car was a 1.4 VW polo, I'm not exactly the worlds biggest adrenalin junky and think the step up from my last car will be sufficient! All in all, I'm very excited to get out there and find the right car before the summer hits (read two days on sunshine in 3 months of drizzle)

It seems my choices appear to be varied, from one or two 45k miles SLK year 2000 models at £3-4k to year 2002-2004 models with 70-80k on the clock for £4-£5k.

My two questions are:

- Is there much difference in the cars produced over those years (I know there was a facelift in 2000) i.e. better to get a newer model even if more miles? Or little difference?

- This problem with rust which seems to plague many cars (judging by these forums) but far from all... What should I look for when at dealers/viewing private sales? What are the easiest found tell tales with hidden rust problems? I'm not the most knowledgeable man in the automotive sense and was hoping someone might be able to tell me what to look for and avoid when buying (hopefully) a lovely old SLK.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tom.

 

[BEJ]

Look at general condition and service history. If a low mileage one, check previous MOTs to see if mileage checks out.
Rust? On the wings around the inside of the arches and bubbling on the paintwork nearly everywhere, ie. bottom of doors, boot, and under the boot carpet.
Having said that, a great fun car.

 

[coventryslk]

Dear Mercedes All-knowing/All-seeing forum members,

I stumbled across some very helpful and interesting forum posts on here regarding Mk1 SLKs and problems with rust. I was hoping for some advice on approaching buying a second hand mk1 (06-2004) SLK. Specifically the facelift version. I'm looking for a R170 2002-2004 model. I am aware I need to be on the look out for rust problems.

I'm looking to buy a MK1 as I always loved the lean, simple shape of the late 90s SL and SLK class (before the rounded merc headlights and shape came) in when I was younger as a teen and think its aged beautifully. Asking around and reading user reviews on Auto Trader, the car has a generally pretty great write up as a second hand buy. I live in central-east london too and if I'm going to have a convertible, its going to need a metal roof, as my manor isn't particularly safe and it'll be parked on the street. I'm also looking at the 2 litre model as insurance for me is high and as my last car was a 1.4 VW polo, I'm not exactly the worlds biggest adrenalin junky and think the step up from my last car will be sufficient! All in all, I'm very excited to get out there and find the right car before the summer hits (read two days on sunshine in 3 months of drizzle)

It seems my choices appear to be varied, from one or two 45k miles SLK year 2000 models at £3-4k to year 2002-2004 models with 70-80k on the clock for £4-£5k.

My two questions are:

- Is there much difference in the cars produced over those years (I know there was a facelift in 2000) i.e. better to get a newer model even if more miles? Or little difference?

- This problem with rust which seems to plague many cars (judging by these forums) but far from all... What should I look for when at dealers/viewing private sales? What are the easiest found tell tales with hidden rust problems? I'm not the most knowledgeable man in the automotive sense and was hoping someone might be able to tell me what to look for and avoid when buying (hopefully) a lovely old SLK.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tom.

Hi

I had a 2000 facelift 200k in Lazulite Blue and cream/charcoal leather in Jan 09. I sold it in Nov 11.

I wouldnt worry too much about low mileage cars as you live in London a tidy hi mile one should do you for half the price

Take no notice of comments about the steering or manual gearbox. The car was great that i had. I had a bit of rust around the rear arches and under the number plate lamp, but it never got any worse

I had the optional 16" adharaz alloys on it too, but if you can find a set of 17" adharaz from a CLK then get some

 

[blib_blib]

Welcome Tom.

I'd only add a suggestion to find out as much as you can about the ownership and general usage - low owner count is usually a good thing. Has it been a second car that only ever came out of the heated garage for a long drive in the countryside when the sun was out... or was it a street residing urban workhorse that did lots of stop/start short journeys in all conditions?

Also, I'd check for poorly done accident repairs and for blocked drain holes - two very common causes of rust, irrespective of make/model. Finally, check if you can if the jack slides easily into the jacking point tubes - a common sign of rust if it won't!

Nothing much changed after the 2000 facelift. Quite a lot of things that you'd think are standard were options, so although you'll find that most cars have leather seats for example, it's by no means a given. In other words, check the spec carefully if these things matter to you! I think there were a couple of special editions right at the end of the R170 series (Final Edition?) in 2004 which folded a number of options together and had some special trim.

+1 for the fun car thing - it's a really great car and we love ours to bits

(Where abouts in London are you Tom?)

 

[vauxhallmaniac]

Hi Tom, like you I love the r170 this was a little project I did last year might give you an insight into rust etc http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=121109

 

[tom1981]

Welcome Tom.

"I'd only add a suggestion to find out as much as you can about the ownership and general usage - low owner count is usually a good thing. Has it been a second car that only ever came out of the heated garage for a long drive in the countryside when the sun was out... or was it a street residing urban workhorse that did lots of stop/start short journeys in all conditions?"

Thank you. Smart thinking. I have this week only found one potential car matching what I'm looking for but its 166 miles up in yorkshire so a risky trip to take!

"Also, I'd check for poorly done accident repairs and for blocked drain holes - two very common causes of rust, irrespective of make/model. Finally, check if you can if the jack slides easily into the jacking point tubes - a common sign of rust if it won't!"

I'll have to look into the jack slides, familiarise myself with them.


(Where abouts in London are you Tom?)

Thank you. Smart thinking on things to look out for. I have this week only found one potential car matching what I'm looking for but its 166 miles up in yorkshire so a risky trip to take! I'll have to look into the jack slides, familiarise myself with them and I'm out east. Hackney way! Thanks again. T

 

[tom1981]

Hi Tom, like you I love the r170 this was a little project I did last year might give you an insight into rust etc http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=121109

Awesome!

 

[tom1981]

Hi

I had a 2000 facelift 200k in Lazulite Blue and cream/charcoal leather in Jan 09. I sold it in Nov 11.

I wouldnt worry too much about low mileage cars as you live in London a tidy hi mile one should do you for half the price

Take no notice of comments about the steering or manual gearbox. The car was great that i had. I had a bit of rust around the rear arches and under the number plate lamp, but it never got any worse

I had the optional 16" adharaz alloys on it too, but if you can find a set of 17" adharaz from a CLK then get some

Thanks for this. I've been looking at 2002/3 models with 70-80k on the clock if possible and hopefully one owner. I might have to travel a bit to find one but I will!

 

[tom1981]

Welcome Tom.

I'd only add a suggestion to find out as much as you can about the ownership and general usage - low owner count is usually a good thing. Has it been a second car that only ever came out of the heated garage for a long drive in the countryside when the sun was out... or was it a street residing urban workhorse that did lots of stop/start short journeys in all conditions?

Also, I'd check for poorly done accident repairs and for blocked drain holes - two very common causes of rust, irrespective of make/model. Finally, check if you can if the jack slides easily into the jacking point tubes - a common sign of rust if it won't!

Nothing much changed after the 2000 facelift. Quite a lot of things that you'd think are standard were options, so although you'll find that most cars have leather seats for example, it's by no means a given. In other words, check the spec carefully if these things matter to you! I think there were a couple of special editions right at the end of the R170 series (Final Edition?) in 2004 which folded a number of options together and had some special trim.

+1 for the fun car thing - it's a really great car and we love ours to bits

(Where abouts in London are you Tom?)

Never got round to buying my old 2OOk r170 as I've been unwell since posting but looking this week. I'm hopeful about my first viewing thurs as I'm travelling fairly far although if it's good I also know the max I would pay (£2800-3500/realistically £3200 tops for top spec 2002/2003 with 70k miles) I'd rather buy from a garage because even a 3 month warranty means slightly less chances of a dud. It has had 3 owners though. It's the special edition they did. It's amazing even at a garage how a top looking spec car can be on sale in half a dozen places up north for £2.5k-3k and down here it can be £2.9-£4.5k!!!

If I'm interested he will do a new mot. Is it hard to look at the jack tubing on a forecourt and also as a complete newcomer and technical idiot, where are the drain holes I should check? I know, I know....

Many thanks again. T

 

[tom1981]

Slk r170 further buying tips

Never got round to buying my old 2OOk r170 as I've been unwell since posting but looking this week. I'm hopeful about my first viewing thurs as I'm travelling fairly far although if it's good I also know the max I would pay (£2800-3500/realistically £3200 tops for top spec 2002/2003 with 70k miles) I'd rather buy from a garage because even a 3 month warranty means slightly less chances of a dud. It has had 3 owners though. It's the special edition they did. It's amazing even at a garage how a top looking spec car can be on sale in half a dozen places up north for £2.5k-3k and down here it can be £2.9-£4.5k!!!

If I'm interested he will do a new mot. Is it hard to look at the jack tubing on a forecourt and also as a complete newcomer and technical idiot, where are the drain holes I should check? I know, I know....

Many thanks again. T

 

[onefortheroad]

Drain holes on the front are at each end of the scuttle cover ,under the little fingers of plastic , passenger side is a big must as this side fills with water and enters the car as I found out recently, there's a third drain in the centre , rear drains can be seen when you open the boot ,one each side .

I got the Mrs a 2003 with 49k recently , cost 2k with a trade in. Go online at the mot checker and enter reg number ,it can give some good history and allows a mileage check of sorts . good luck .

 

[tom1981]

Welcome Tom.

I'd only add a suggestion to find out as much as you can about the ownership and general usage - low owner count is usually a good thing. Has it been a second car that only ever came out of the heated garage for a long drive in the countryside when the sun was out... or was it a street residing urban workhorse that did lots of stop/start short journeys in all conditions?

Also, I'd check for poorly done accident repairs and for blocked drain holes - two very common causes of rust, irrespective of make/model. Finally, check if you can if the jack slides easily into the jacking point tubes - a common sign of rust if it won't!

Nothing much changed after the 2000 facelift. Quite a lot of things that you'd think are standard were options, so although you'll find that most cars have leather seats for example, it's by no means a given. In other words, check the spec carefully if these things matter to you! I think there were a couple of special editions right at the end of the R170 series (Final Edition?) in 2004 which folded a number of options together and had some special trim.

+1 for the fun car thing - it's a really great car and we love ours to bits

(Where abouts in London are you Tom?)

Drain holes on the front are at each end of the scuttle cover ,under the little fingers of plastic , passenger side is a big must as this side fills with water and enters the car as I found out recently, there's a third drain in the centre , rear drains can be seen when you open the boot ,one each side .

I got the Mrs a 2003 with 49k recently , cost 2k with a trade in. Go online at the mot checker and enter reg number ,it can give some good history and allows a mileage check of sorts . good luck .

Thanks so much for that. This is invaluable stuff especially for someone relatively clueless. I'm travelling a decent way on the train already booked to see this car. the online MOT checker said this:

2015: The vehicle passed this MOT with 74,650 miles on the clock. There were also the following advisories: Offside Front Lower Suspension arm has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2) Under-trays fitted obscuring some underside components.

2014: Tested on Thu 12th June 2014
The vehicle passed this MOT with 70,361 miles on the clock. There were also the following advisories: Nearside Front Direction indicator slightly discoloured (1.4.A.2f) Offside Front Direction indicator slightly discoloured (1.4.A.2f) Nearside Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c) Offside Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c) Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c) Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c) Play in steering rack inner joint(s) front tyres starting to crack Under-trays fitted obscuring some underside components Engine covers fitted obscuring some components in the engine bay .

Part of you hopes that earlier discoveries were sorted in the later MOT but I'm not sure whether this is inevitable wear and tear or a bad egg... Any opinions once again gratefully received! Tom

 

[tom1981]

Drain holes on the front are at each end of the scuttle cover ,under the little fingers of plastic , passenger side is a big must as this side fills with water and enters the car as I found out recently, there's a third drain in the centre , rear drains can be seen when you open the boot ,one each side .

I got the Mrs a 2003 with 49k recently , cost 2k with a trade in. Go online at the mot checker and enter reg number ,it can give some good history and allows a mileage check of sorts . good luck .

Hi one more thing if I'm not being a nuisance, am going and looking at a second hand car away away at an independent dealer... Is there a quick way of checking drain hole problems. Not sure how/if I can I lift the scuttle up on a forecourt? Or is it more important you think to look for damp in the interior of footwell a and boot as a sign of it? Thanks again. I would be clueless without all this information! Tom

 

[LostKiwi]

With any convertible always check for damp footwells and carpets.
With the scuttles look down through the grille in front of the windscreen. There shouldn't be any sign of standing water.

 

[tom1981]

Thanks

 

[tom1981]

Found a R170 but wanted some pro forum opinion on some bubbling?

Hi, You guys have been the oracle when it comes to researching buying an old R170 I've found a 200k manual 6 speed 2002 special edition with 74,000 miles from a dealer.

He's doing a new MOT and will get the guy to look a few bits bit of badly treated bubbling (would rather ask you guys first) Checked the jack tubes for rust and the arches are clean, the boot carpet and footwell are dry and I can't see blockages in the drainage holes both ends. Last full service was last year and it's done 4k since. Black leather interior etc. Roof works great and he even let me take it up to 90 on the a - road. Interior looks good (he hasn't valeted but so what)

So three little flag up problems are the ABS brakes NOT the discs but the brakes you can see through the alloy spokes (callipers?) have a fair amount of corrosion on them although driving it they feel good. Seems reading on other posts that's just visual and common. Is that a no-no? (I'm a real second hand novice)

The other two are is a slight creak on the back window anything to worry about at motorway speeds? I have never been in a convertible with a metal roof only cloth. Also this bit of touched up bubbling around the on bumper and a few screws under bonnet (picture attached) which he said he would get sorted properly with new MOT. Again... I would rather know if this is something that's small and I can get done at body shop and still reflected in price and age.

He was asking £3495, have talked him down by quoting other cars I was going to look at to £2900. Wanted to run these 3 things past wiser men and women than me? Any thoughts? Thanks as ever! Tom

Gallery

https://flickr.com/photos/59673759@N...57664670927632

 

[television]

If you are sure that a manual car in London is ok, we can pass on that, re the rust, ignore rusty disc as they soon clean up, it will not pass the MOT if the ABS lamp is on. Re the rust bubbles, these will only last if the job is done correctly. Roof creaks can usually be fixed by lubricating the roof rubbers, so no problem there.

 

[tom1981]

Thanks so much, Well I am wondering if I should keep looking as there was more touched up bubbling and I would want to keep looking. Spec wise, wheels and interior it's the nicest SLK 200 it seems they made but it's a question of whether a good deal with regards to getting those little body work bits sorted. I would definitely like to invest in something I can keep for a while and smooth the rough edges on but also not more of a money pit than another example. Prices seem to vary massively from £2k to £4.5k for a clean one! I took some photos of the bubbling in name of being thorough:

https://flickr.com/photos/59673759@N...57664670927632

 

[tom1981]

It's trying to work out if that's a fair price as I'll want to take it to the body shop.

 

[television]

Sadly your link does not work