CLK W208.8 Propshaft coupling, flexi, dounut etc.

[Coupe]

Rear coupling - I can remove the bolts (extra leverage required!) loosen the coupling from both the prop shaft and the diff end, move the prop shaft back a little way (1-2") but there seems to be a middle central shaft that stops you dropping the coupling. Do you have to remove the front end too to get sufficient clearance or am I missing something. Help please.

 

[LostKiwi]

Did this on Arudge's car and it came out with some levering. Wasn't that difficult.

 

[Coupe]

Thanks for responding. It was a bit tight under there, I should have raised it higher but can you remember if I need to also prise the inner shaft as well in order to prise the coupling out. Actually fully inspecting the current one I couldn't see any damage and it looked in pretty good condition so maybe I'll just replace the bolts however, it would be good to know how to do it.

 

[LostKiwi]

Inner shaft?
Undo the bolts, lever towards the gearbox and it drops down and falls out.

 

[Coupe]

Ok I’ll have another go. Thanks.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

You need to put the coupling back in the same way as old one came out . Some have a to be fitted in a certain way .You need to read up on this , or you could look at the youtube videos .Even a way the bolts go in to secure it .So take a picture of the coupling before removal .Then as you go along take notice of any wording on the coupling, and to were it is facing .Some coupling the three out of the six bolts go one way, and the other three go the other way etec...

 

[Coupe]

Thanks Dreamer No2. The new one came with a note saying if arrow place in this direction if not then ignore. No arrow on new or old one but I did mark up prop shaft and diff end to make sure they were the same way around. Not sure if you need to but just something I did on the MGB's I have. Also the washers were against the rubber on each of the six bolts so 3 were on the bolts end and 3 were on the nut end. Seems to make sense.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Coupe If its like the front one ,,you will have tubes in the coupling that fit in to recessed holes that are in the final drive flange ...You need to CHECK if you have two type of bolts ,three to go in one way and three to go the the other = 6 You might have 6 all the same so look out for this. Check out the youtube videos i did with my ptopshaft coupling replacment ..Or best to take a picture to be sure ..or a video if you have that mode on the camera ..

 

[Coupe]

Are the front bolts star cylindrical? The ones on my current rear are standard nut and bolts - the one supplied are star cylindrical? There's also 3 extra hex cylindrical as well as the six star. Is this for the front? The actual disc looks the same.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Coupe i dont know about yours .But mine had 3 cylindrical [engineering bolts , allen bolts ] and 3 normal bolts but this was the front one on the w124 .So nothing to go by.. May be they give you extra bolts in case it is to fit the front , as some propshafts use the same coupling as the rear , thus extra bolts. The disc is the main thing as long as its the same as the one you removed .Put it on the same way with the same type of bolts . Where did you get the new coupling from?

 

[Coupe]

Dreamer N02 - I did get confused because many seemed to fit both front and rear. The ones I got were

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FEBI-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

and looking at the picture the bolts are not quiet the same as mine in shape but I hadn't looked at mine. Certainly the coupling looks the same. I might have another check sometime during the week. Thanks for your help..

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Coupe not a problem .If you are unsure ,do take it in to the garage to let them sort it out .You need to search this job on youtube .Do some investigation on google search .

 

[Arudge]

Dreamer N02 - I did get confused because many seemed to fit both front and rear. The ones I got were

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FEBI-BILSTEIN-OE-QUALITY-FRONT-OR-REAR-UPPER-PROPSHAFT-JOINT-14980/351587907512?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

and looking at the picture the bolts are not quiet the same as mine in shape but I hadn't looked at mine. Certainly the coupling looks the same. I might have another check sometime during the week. Thanks for your help..

Don't worry about the bolts. You can have Cap heads, Torx heads or good old fashioned Hex heads, it really doesn't matter. What does matter is that their rated for the job and their long enough. The coupling on the back is different from the front and it's the front that usually gets the hammering. I changed my rear coupling at 17 years old although it was still perfectly serviceable.

What issues do you have?

There isn't much that hasn't gone wrong on my W208, i've had most of it apart. I'm not on here all the time but if you want some help, pm me, then at least i'll see the email.

 

[Coupe]

I was told it had cracks but on close inspection it looks good and was replaced about 5 years ago.

Don't worry about the bolts. You can have Cap heads, Torx heads or good old fashioned Hex heads, it really doesn't matter. What does matter is that their rated for the job and their long enough. The coupling on the back is different from the front and it's the front that usually gets the hammering. I changed my rear coupling at 17 years old although it was still perfectly serviceable.

What issues do you have?

There isn't much that hasn't gone wrong on my W208, i've had most of it apart. I'm not on here all the time but if you want some help, pm me, then at least i'll see the email.

 

[Arudge]

I was told it had cracks but on close inspection it looks good and was replaced about 5 years ago.

Ok.