Ctek MXS Chargers

[tristand]

Hi,

I've read some positive posts about the Ctek MXS chargers here. I've had a look through the manual but not sure if it is suitable for my requirements. I want to connect it to the battery of the car when the power is on but not when the engine is running. The same thing they would do in a service centre.

The reason for this is last time I updated the maps on the comand unit it took circa 7 hours, as the command switches off after a certain time under battery alone I had to resort to the engine running for most of that duration.

I'm hoping that the Ctek will eliminate the requirement for the engine on and give me a good charger as well.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[television]

That should work just fine it big enough.

 

[dreadlockdw]

I have one and my belief is that provided the key is not in the ignition it would be fine to use power at the same time as charging ie using COMAND, which in mine can be switched on independently.

In my case I think there might be an issue regarding the auto turn off after 30 mins, however... Or does the fact of carrying out an update over-ride this?

 

[tristand]

From recollection, the COMAND was powering off after about 30 mins or so, but can't be sure. When I powered it back on it had a message saying something like power off to conserve battery. I'm assuming that the voltage dropped below a certain threshold. When I had the car serviced shortly afterwards they cleared some battery low errors on the STAR.

Luckily the update continued where it had stopped when switched on again but I'm assuming that 7 hours is too long for the COMAND to be running on the battery alone.

I've tested the COMAND just there, it switches on without the key in the ignition at all so would I be correct in assuming that with the charger in question connected that it should keep the COMAND on as there will be no drain on the battery?

 

[LostKiwi]

Not sure about Comand but in most cars there is a timer that turns the audio system off irrespective of battery state or turns off if battery voltage drops.

 

[television]

Comand can draw high currents, and the last thing that you need when updating is a low voltage crash as it may not recover from that, I just leave mine on idle if no charger to hand

 

[Chrishazle]

First time I updated, I left the engine idling for quite a while, realised the update would take a long time so connected a battery charger (engine running) then switched engine off but left ignition on so Comand would not shut down. Worked fine, so did the same second time I updated!

 

[tristand]

Thanks all for your input.

Chrishazle, I'll follow your procedure.

Ctek MXS 5.0 whizzing it's way from Amazon.

Happy New Year to All.

 

[Botus]

not wanting to upset anyone, but there's a good deal on a modern clever charger at Aldi if you're quick

3 year guarantee, £14 and looks like very similar to a Ctek one. Only has 4 different charging modes though


As for drain with the key on, kill the blower motor at that takes lots and is not required, and on mine with the old battery, even with the charger flat out it still took more than the 3.47amps it could give out and still turned of command.

Other thing to note, never connect charger to the battery earth, always do via the body earth (with positive direct on to the battery), this way the charger can "see" the vehicle drain going on in the background and works better

 

[television]

not wanting to upset anyone, but there's a good deal on a modern clever charger at Aldi if you're quick

3 year guarantee, £14 and looks like very similar to a Ctek one. Only has 4 different charging modes though


As for drain with the key on, kill the blower motor at that takes lots and is not required, and on mine with the old battery, even with the charger flat out it still took more than the 3.47amps it could give out and still turned of command.

Other thing to note, never connect charger to the battery earth, always do via the body earth (with positive direct on to the battery), this way the charger can "see" the vehicle drain going on in the background and works better

Excellent advice, I bought 2 charges at £14 from Lydol' last year, they work very well and do all you need, in many respects just as good as the Ctec for these are very expensive for whats in them.

 

[Chrishazle]

They may not last as long as the Ctek though - I've seen many good reports about the Lidl ones, but also reports of them failing after 4 years - so keep an eye!

 

[television]

They may not last as long as the Ctek though - I've seen many good reports about the Lidl ones, but also reports of them failing after 4 years - so keep an eye!

And I have had 3 faulty Ctec's passed on to me last year, you just never know with anything electronic Chris.

 

[AMGeed]

I'm on my 3rd year of using the Lidl charger and for £14 they are almost throwaway after a couple of years. Exceptional bargain........just wish they had the terminal connectors like the ctek for ease.

 

[television]

I think that I will spend a couple of hours fitting a charging point to my early SL over this week end

 

[AMGeed]

^Good idea.
Put up a photo of what you have done afterwards would you?

 

[television]

^Good idea.
Put up a photo of what you have done afterwards would you?

Will do, just a standard XLR connector (only needs 20mm hole) with a inline fuse to the battery. These are the same plugs as used on PA and golf carts etc.

 

[AMGeed]

I'm dumb when it comes to electrical connectors so an XLR connector is new to me. A Maplins stock item?
Inline fuse on the positive lead only?
I'll look at your work first

 

[Chrishazle]

I've only ever used my battery conditioner on the 968 coupe and cabriolet. The wires from the unit to the battery are very fine, and I can close the rear hatch (coupe) or boot lid (cabriolet) over the wires without damaging either the wires or the seal, so I just have crocodile clips on the ends of the wire and clip those direct to the battery terminals (the battery in most 968's is in the rear nearside of the boot).

 

[LostKiwi]

I used a pair of these on my old Land Rover:

These enabled me to jumps start without finding battery terminals and also charge from the CTEK 10A charger I have. Wire one end permanently to the battery and the other to one of the connectors mounted in an accessible place. Then modify some jump leads by cutting 2/3rds down the cable and putting both ends into two more connectors. You then plug one of the original jump leads to the car to jump it if needed or plug the two cable ends together to use normally.

 

[television]

These are the sockets
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Pin-XLR...819621?hash=item1a0806e665:g:CN8AAOSwA4dWKMDy

And the plugs, no point in locking one as the car is static
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NICKEL-3-...610760?hash=item3d0ad31548:g:dG8AAOSwEeFVN4WO


Yes ground wire to chassis with 10mm spade to bolt on.
Yes inline fuse and positive to terminal via a 10mm spade to battery

This means if fitted to somewhere in the boot liner you do not have to get to the battery.