ENGINE/ATF OIL CHANGING

[LostKiwi]

The way to do this is disconnect the out put from the transmission (that goes to oil cooler). Run the engine and pump out 3 litres. Stop and top up the gearbox with three litres. Repeat. And keep repeating till clean (enough) oil flows out. The cooler will drain automatically into the gearbox oil pan.
DO NOT allow the gearbox to run out of oil as serious damage can occur.

 

[Jim2]

The way to do this is disconnect the out put from the transmission (that goes to oil cooler). Run the engine and pump out 3 litres. Stop and top up the gearbox with three litres. Repeat. And keep repeating till clean (enough) oil flows out. The cooler will drain automatically into the gearbox oil pan.
DO NOT allow the gearbox to run out of oil as serious damage can occur.

So Step 1:- Drain transmission oil pan via drain stud, and remove it. Replace Filter, and return pan to transmission after cleaning etc. Fill transmission with the exact amount which has been drained from it via dipstick tube.
Step 2:- Disconnect Transmission output pipe ( will be the hot one? ) to Radiator and feed into collection basin. Start engine and run until 3 ltrs have emptied. Stop engine, replace the 3 ltrs. Repeat until the new fluid appears. Reconnect coolant pipe and run engine, moving the selector through PRND. When Oil has reached correct temperature ( 45c? ) check level and top-up/or remove excess oil. When checking the oil level, which position should the selector be in? PRN or D?
Step 3 :-Drive on for the next 37'000 Miles.
Might be a bit of over simplicity from me LostKiwi, but I now have cleared picture of what needs to be done. Thanks again for your help,
Best Regards Jim2

 

[umblecumbuz]

There are several Youtube vids showing these steps.
I have done it to a 722.6 box before. I know Wighty and others also have.

When removing pan, just loosen bolts at one end while removing all the others, so that pan slants downward, because a fair amount of fluid remains in the pan after it has stopped draining through the sump plug. Once pan is off, the box will continue to drip for some time. The filter just unclips (more drips).

When replacing pan, remember that one bolt is longer than the others - for the little heat shield by the pilot bush.

Measuring the quantity extracted is a good starting point for a level check when refilling, but a proper level check should also be done after the first run (for measuring, I used empty 2litre milk containers).

Refilling: Gearbox at operating temperature. Car on level ground. Engine running in Park. Check level on dipstick. Later - double check for leaks.

 

[Jim2]

There are several Youtube vids showing these steps.
I have done it to a 722.6 box before. I know Wighty and others also have.

When removing pan, just loosen bolts at one end while removing all the others, so that pan slants downward, because a fair amount of fluid remains in the pan after it has stopped draining through the sump plug. Once pan is off, the box will continue to drip for some time. The filter just unclips (more drips).

When replacing pan, remember that one bolt is longer than the others - for the little heat shield by the pilot bush.

Measuring the quantity extracted is a good starting point for a level check when refilling, but a proper level check should also be done after the first run (for measuring, I used empty 2litre milk containers).

Refilling: Gearbox at operating temperature. Car on level ground. Engine running in Park. Check level on dipstick. Later - double check for leaks.

Thanks Umblecumbuz, now it's much clearer for me, I have ordered the dipstick, and when that arrives ( next week, hopefully ) will go ahead with the change. Feeling much more confident about the whole thing now, though. The locking clip on the dipstick tube is missing, so at least, it has had some attention in the past....question is WHEN? From the forum and YouTube, it seems that if the colour still clean red, its ok, but any brown or yellowish tint means change is overdue. In any case, just to be on the safe side, I will change it.
Best Regards, Jim2.

 

[Wighty]

Thanks Umblecumbuz, now it's much clearer for me, I have ordered the dipstick, and when that arrives ( next week, hopefully ) will go ahead with the change. Feeling much more confident about the whole thing now, though. The locking clip on the dipstick tube is missing, so at least, it has had some attention in the past....question is WHEN? From the forum and YouTube, it seems that if the colour still clean red, its ok, but any brown or yellowish tint means change is overdue. In any case, just to be on the safe side, I will change it.
Best Regards, Jim2.

The dipstick locking tab , may just have been removed for a check of the level , rather than an oil replacement . The red locking tabs are a couple of quid on eBay .

 

[Jim2]

Yes

The dipstick locking tab , may just have been removed for a check of the level , rather than an oil replacement . The red locking tabs are a couple of quid on eBay .

Yes Wighty, could have been just a level check, I understand that, which is why I will change it, even if it looks and feels OK, and the level is correct. At least from that point on, I will know where I stand. While draining the TC via the cooler pipes, the engine will have to be running to pump out the TC oil, which is Ok, I believe as long as I do it bit by bit....drain a few ltrs, stop engine, top up a few ltrs, repeat. Will this generate any fault codes do you think? And if it does, will I be able to clear them with iCarsoft MB2?
Regards, Jim2.

 

[Wighty]

Yes


Yes Wighty, could have been just a level check, I understand that, which is why I will change it, even if it looks and feels OK, and the level is correct. At least from that point on, I will know where I stand. While draining the TC via the cooler pipes, the engine will have to be running to pump out the TC oil, which is Ok, I believe as long as I do it bit by bit....drain a few ltrs, stop engine, top up a few ltrs, repeat. Will this generate any fault codes do you think? And if it does, will I be able to clear them with iCarsoft MB2?
Regards, Jim2.

Hi Jim , the TC questions are a bit too technical for me I leave that for the real experts . YouTube has a few things on draining the 5g gearbox , as well as the DIY section here . Good luck .

 

[LostKiwi]

Unless you run it too low you shouldn't generate errors.

 

[Oldspanners]

Yes


Yes Wighty, could have been just a level check, I understand that, which is why I will change it, even if it looks and feels OK, and the level is correct. At least from that point on, I will know where I stand. While draining the TC via the cooler pipes, the engine will have to be running to pump out the TC oil, which is Ok, I believe as long as I do it bit by bit....drain a few ltrs, stop engine, top up a few ltrs, repeat. Will this generate any fault codes do you think? And if it does, will I be able to clear them with iCarsoft MB2?
Regards, Jim2.

This video gives a good explanation of the method.

Bought my Febi Bilstein oil, filter, and gasket on ebay.

 

[Jim2]

Hi Oldspanners, that video shows everything crystal clear. And definitely worth pulling the electrical connector off too and checking it at least.
Thanks.
Regards, Jim2

This video gives a good explanation of the method.

Bought my Febi Bilstein oil, filter, and gasket on ebay.

st

 

[Oldspanners]

Hi Oldspanners, that video shows everything crystal clear. And definitely worth pulling the electrical connector off too and checking it at least.
Thanks.
Regards, Jim2

st

Good idea even if it's just to clean it with contact cleaner.
After that I read somewhere that after a complete flush to drain the sump of ATF every time you do an ordinary oil change to keep it fresh once the miles start to get into the 100 of thousands. Thought that was a good idea if you intend keep the car.

 

[Wighty]

Good idea even if it's just to clean it with contact cleaner.
After that I read somewhere that after a complete flush to drain the sump of ATF every time you do an ordinary oil change to keep it fresh once the miles start to get into the 100 of thousands. Thought that was a good idea if you intend keep the car.

And pretty cheap to do with Fuchs ATF on eBay , 4L for £28 will cover the sump volume . It's a cheap insurance , and a clean job with a Pela pump ( other pumps are available !)

 

[Jim2]

Yes, I do intend keeping it,,,, only bought it on 12th Jan,with 124'000 Miles on the clock, and not much service history with it either...( I took a chance ) Basically, 1st owner had MB service history up to about mid-2015, then Indy's I guess. There was no service booklet with it. But the lock on the dipstick tube is missing, so at least once in it's life.....some one has done something with the transmission, even if only to check the oil level which gives me hope !!!! So as soon as the dipstick I have ordered arrives, I will change the oil inc. TC. That way, I can rest easy at least regarding the trans oil. After a full change, and as you suggest, a "small" change ( without dropping the pan) at every engine oil change, will keep it fresh and serviceable. The Engine oil and filter and Air filters already done.
Jim2

Good idea even if it's just to clean it with contact cleaner.
After that I read somewhere that after a complete flush to drain the sump of ATF every time you do an ordinary oil change to keep it fresh once the miles start to get into the 100 of thousands. Thought that was a good idea if you intend keep the car.

ing it

 

[Oldspanners]

And pretty cheap to do with Fuchs ATF on eBay , 4L for £28 will cover the sump volume . It's a cheap insurance , and a clean job with a Pela pump ( other pumps are available !)

The thing that really gets me is the price of the little red plastic locking clip! I wouldn't pay over £10 with postage for that!

 

[Oldspanners]

Yes, I do intend keeping it,,,, only bought it on 12th Jan,with 124'000 Miles on the clock, and not much service history with it either...( I took a chance ) Basically, 1st owner had MB service history up to about mid-2015, then Indy's I guess. There was no service booklet with it. But the lock on the dipstick tube is missing, so at least once in it's life.....some one has done something with the transmission, even if only to check the oil level which gives me hope !!!! So as soon as the dipstick I have ordered arrives, I will change the oil inc. TC. That way, I can rest easy at least regarding the trans oil. After a full change, and as you suggest, a "small" change ( without dropping the pan) at every engine oil change, will keep it fresh and serviceable. The Engine oil and filter and Air filters already done.
Jim2



ing it

Good luck with all that but in the end no one looks after your car as well as yourself.
I took a risk buying mine with a service history but only with MB for the first 6-7 years after that a bit patchy with various different garages none MB specialists as far as I can tell, looked like oil and filter only.
I'm still working my way through changing all the fluids gearbox, engine, diff and coolant done. Brake and power steering next and want to get the serpentine belt off to check all the pulleys. After that I still think about the timing chain which oddly was one of the reasons I chose a MB to avoid timing belt changes. Anyway there's always something if you really want to find it.
Happy motoring!

 

[Wighty]

The thing that really gets me is the price of the little red plastic locking clip! I wouldn't pay over £10 with postage for that!

Go to MB Newcastle smart eBay page , they are a couple of quid only . If you file down the sharp edge on the tab it allows you to remove it again .
Edit....just checked , £2.20 delivered for the tab

 

[Jim2]

Good luck with all that but in the end no one looks after your car as well as yourself.
I took a risk buying mine with a service history but only with MB for the first 6-7 years after that a bit patchy with various different garages none MB specialists as far as I can tell, looked like oil and filter only.
I'm still working my way through changing all the fluids gearbox, engine, diff and coolant done. Brake and power steering next and want to get the serpentine belt off to check all the pulleys. After that I still think about the timing chain which oddly was one of the reasons I chose a MB to avoid timing belt changes. Anyway there's always something if you really want to find it.
Happy motoring!

Hi Oldspanners,
Your story is a bit like mine... on the positive side... early servicing is paramount, and early service history is a plus. Lots or early problems will have been sorted out. Attached is the MB Main Dealer service sheet print out from my car. So some pretty important jobs have been done. Also some others which are identified by code only. I wonder what these are???? You are right about minding the car yourself. That way you can be 100% certain that the job was done correctly. Have a look at the sheet, and see what you think?
Rehards, Jim2

 

[Oldspanners]

Hi Oldspanners,
Your story is a bit like mine... on the positive side... early servicing is paramount, and early service history is a plus. Lots or early problems will have been sorted out. Attached is the MB Main Dealer service sheet print out from my car. So some pretty important jobs have been done. Also some others which are identified by code only. I wonder what these are???? You are right about minding the car yourself. That way you can be 100% certain that the job was done correctly. Have a look at the sheet, and see what you think?
Rehards, Jim2

Hello Jim,
I can't give you any information beyond what's written on the sheet as I don't understand the codes but I'm sure someone on the Forum will. The last one about the chain is the most interesting and hopefully means the chain and tensioner (perhaps the cam gears) have been changed which is a big plus.
I tried to buy a car with the lowest mileage but buying one with more miles and a documented history of the common problems solved may work out better. In the end any car purchase carries a risk it's just a matter of minimising that.
Whatever, enjoy the miles whilst everything going well.
P.S. The big tell tale for gearbox oil is the smell, if it smells burnt of sort of Bakelite/plastic is a sure sign of damage having occurred.
Regards.

 

[Oldspanners]

Go to MB Newcastle smart eBay page , they are a couple of quid only . If you file down the sharp edge on the tab it allows you to remove it again .
Edit....just checked , £2.20 delivered for the tab

Thanks for that Wighty, I've bought a lot of stuff from them but the postage to France for just that is prohibitive (read not allowed by She who ...) So I'll wait until a more important purchase is needed with file at the ready.

 

[Jim2]

Hello Jim,
I can't give you any information beyond what's written on the sheet as I don't understand the codes but I'm sure someone on the Forum will. The last one about the chain is the most interesting and hopefully means the chain and tensioner (perhaps the cam gears) have been changed which is a big plus.
I tried to buy a car with the lowest mileage but buying one with more miles and a documented history of the common problems solved may work out better. In the end any car purchase carries a risk it's just a matter of minimising that.
Whatever, enjoy the miles whilst everything going well.
P.S. The big tell tale for gearbox oil is the smell, if it smells burnt of sort of Bakelite/plastic is a sure sign of damage having occurred.
Regards.

I could have bought another Eclass, 100'000 Miles, full service history, one owner, 1 years guarantee, €3000 cheaper,plus I know the garage owner. The car itself was pristine condition, owned by the MD of a local company.This would of course have been the safer bet.BUT it was 2008 model, w211. And I was tempted, but I took a chance and bought the w212 with limited history etc. but its the newer model, has good specs, and I really like the car. Did I do the right thing? Only time will tell.... All 2nd hand cars carry a risk, even the guaranteed ones, none the less, the brand is good, and that has to count for something. Your comment about the transmission oil and burnt smell etc...has me bothered, so in the morning, I plan on sticking a narrow plastic tube down the dipstick pipe, and pumping a small qty of oil out..just 50 ml's will do, and give it the "Nose" and "Sight" test..
Thanks again for your help, Oldspanners..
Best Regards, Jim2