Engine Not Turning Over?????

severn

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I concur sounds like a can fault. PSSMart is correct the chassis can has to end stops resisters one in the ignition switch one in the engine control unit both 120 Ohms. If you Measure the can resistance when the fault is present you should have 60 Ohms on your meter the eseyest place to tap into the chassis can is at the ESP conrtol unit. Any reading other than 60 Ohms and the can bus is faulty Possible short to earth or positive. or even together
 
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rajinder_1

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Spoke with mechaninc yesterday, and his guy cant find any tests for the gearbox ECU to see if it is faulty or not as explained earlier it is all in
CAN binary code.... so its a hit and miss situation ECU is going to cost £389+VAT so around £460, as these units are programmed to the specific car its and non returnable part..... and its a 5 day order, one of the guys is working at MB and he says that the codes and the info given all point towards the ECU as its intermittant and the car starts after x amonut of attepmts they have ruled out any chaffed wires as it would happen all the time if it was the wires. Im lost now and will have to try the ECU and see what happens....

Regards

Raj
 

piestore

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Non Start

hI
you need to have the actual values in DAS checked in both EIS and ETC if these are OK the problem could be the gear selecta rod, put vehicle into park posistion loosen the lock bolt on the selecta rod adjustment and allow them to settle in posistion and then tighten the lock bolt.

Its worth a try this fault gives no fault codes although it usually follows an accident

I don't think you have a CAN fault, but I am frequntly wrong

good luck
 
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rajinder_1

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Hi the car has had the faults wiped from its memory on 3 different occasion and they keep re occuring, there is definately some thing wrong some where as the codes are all coming from the ETC unit...

thanks

Raj
 
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rajinder_1

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What do you think about the K38 starter relay causing the problems, is this what would happen???
 

joe bloggs

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Hi Guys

Just jumped in at the end here but has anyone mentioned a fault code relating to the gearbox rpm sensor? we have changed loads of them, sits inside the gearbox sump, picture enclosed (i hope) part 20 this tells the G/box ecu what the box is doing, and if the sensor fails the box selects 2nd gear and goes very harsh.
as for non starting this is not related to the sensor mentioned, your car may have a MBSS dealer fitted alarm, this interrupts the can to the engine ecu, should still crank though, did you try the ignition switch, common on this model, be careful if working with it, the plastic barrel is designed to break away if forced, this locks the steering, and the only way to unlock is to cut the old lock off.

Noticed some mention of the mirror, this would not prevent cranking, it picks up the i.r. sends it to the IFZ which sends a lock signal to the engine ECU (i.e.) it cranks but does'nt fire up therefore it would seem this is not the cause of the trouble
 

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rajinder_1

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Hi Joe,
Ignition switch, and a new battery have been replaced and im still getting the non start problem, im totally lost now as with the fault codes even my mechanic is getting lost.... he was considering the gearbox ecu, but at £460 its a costly part if it doesnt work so now i think they are going to try the starter lock out relay.... if you look on the previous theads you should be able to get a clear picture of whats going on, but no body has any idea what causes it???

Regrds
 

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Fault code 133 refers to faulty wiring on gearbox ECU.

If the fault codes have been cleared the 132,133,135 codes are not Can bus codes, since Can bus codes only go to 40, uncleared codes add 96 to
the number.

Can bus Gearbox codes reset with ign key.

Malcolm
 
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rajinder_1

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Hi Malcolm,
So are you suggesting that it is the Gearbox ECU that needs to be replaced????

Raj
 

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No, fault code 133 says check wiring on ECU, that means the multi plug both ends.
Something I said check way back, but you did not think that your mechanic would do that, should be cleaned with a good switch/contact cleaner, not WD40


malcolm
 
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rajinder_1

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I will pass message to him again as i think they will be replacing the K38 switch over weekend i will make sure that all the contacts are cleaned, any specific switch cleaner you recommend, or shall i use what you suggested before the lighter fluid?

Thanks

Raj
 

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No this needs a electronic contact cleaner/ lubricant, if you have a tandy shop near you , they sell it.

Malcolm
 
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rajinder_1

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Hey Malcolm,
Tandy thats well old, i remember that years ago when i was a wee niper, i dont think we have one of them local i will try maplins, any specific brand or make?

Raj
 

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Maplins is fine, Tell them you want a none drying type, and not just the cleaner that evaporates

Malcolm
 

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If they have any products made by Electrolube take that, they are the best.

malcolm
 
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rajinder_1

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Thanks Malcolm, i will bug him tommorrow to clean all the connectors, i have also found that the ignition barrell is loose aswell, will get that looked at too..

Raj
 

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Re the K38 relay starter lock out, one can join the wires together, to try for a bit. this was an addition around 1995, the car is still secure as the DAS cuts the fuel injection.


Malcolm
 

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Hello Raj,, Found some more things, On the muti plugs that go into trans;
Pin 34 is the main starter lock out, the two end pins L-H are the CAN high/low data bus connections.

There is a starter lock out micro switch in the trans;

Code 134 is corrupted ETC module

Malcolm
 

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I have a new info, here goes.

131 = Can communication with motor electrics = engine
132 = Can com " " " " " " or faulty engine temperture
133 = Can Com " " " generally faulty
133 = Can line malfunction (bus off)
134 = Can com traction system faulty
135= can com with motor electrics faulty
136 = can com with instrument cluster faulty
136 = can com tio IES malfunction

This means the fault is anywhere other than on your gearbox.

Must go to bed, working tomorrow 7am -6pm.

Malcolm
 

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