Grinding

[splitshift]

ok , I have a speed sensor problem that I think needs a conductor plate, just about to get er done! BUT twice, when starting off from cold, full left lock and it seems, there is a grinding rubbing at n/s left rear corner. Two flashes of warning triangle on dash, all good thereafter but......, sticking brake, or linked to sensor plate????

 

[ernieh]

ok , I have a speed sensor problem that I think needs a conductor plate, just about to get er done! BUT twice, when starting off from cold, full left lock and it seems, there is a grinding rubbing at n/s left rear corner. Two flashes of warning triangle on dash, all good thereafter but......, sticking brake, or linked to sensor plate????

I would get the reluctor ring on the n/s rear and its ABS sensor checked out before I went into the gearbox...if that's what you were thinking of doing. There might even be a bearing / hub problem in that wheel.

Ernie

 

[alexanderfoti]

Or a wheel bearing that has end play. Jack the car off the ground and check the wheel for play.

 

[splitshift]

Yes all common sense stuff there, tomorrow morning jack we up !!

 

[splitshift]

Actually, with more thought, the light on dash would not come on all the time, generally after a fairly long left hander,slip road onto motorway ! It comes on nearly always now, as if a bearing was moving , on right turn with extended pressure, but now moves more and hence unaligned the abs sensor ! Just hope I haven’t ruined a hub !!!! No noise though generally, will investigate !

 

[splitshift]

Ok, the story continues! No end play no looseness in shaft , hub etc . Got big snap on and various other diagnostic stuff connected. Lots of errors, 14 I think !!! Several relating to n/s rear abs ring. ( not sensor) up, wheel off and LOTS of black tape ! Both pad wear indicated and abs sensor obv interrupted sometime in past !! Peeled all tape of and abs clearly not completing circuit ! Cleaned, and resolder circuit back and away we go ! Lights all out but came back after while, not the usual 25 mph, but later. My spark reckons the signal from the abs( speed sensor) on that wheel is providing false, or no data so car thinks it is skidding, or spinning so applies brake to that corner( grinding noise ) and esp light. Will aquire new abs sensor Monday and prob have to shim up the hole !!!new ring also probable !!
As I said , electricity is only for doing away with gas lights !!!! No place in cars

 

[splitshift]

Arrrrgh , begins to wish I had bought a land ***er ! When I pull away, the abs is activating, just for three flashes on screen( triangle) and then flags abs light and away we go! Now, I am not using it much at all , but I want to get it to my friends garage to get er done, once and for all !!! Where is the abs, fuse, sensor and if I pull it will she still drive, just without abs?
Only joking about the land thingy!!!

 

[LostKiwi]

Yes will still drive.
Dirty reluctor are a common cause of ABS faults. To get to it you'll probably need to remove the hub (have a spare wheel bearing and seal to hand). Over time they get rusty and the signal gets noisy. Also rust can attach to the end of the sensor causing similar issues. Finally any bad wiring will need to be addressed as corroded wires or bad connections can also cause poor signals.

 

[splitshift]

I understand ! Like I said I am now at the, “ I am going to fix this” stage , just want to be able to drive it to and from the garage without the abs activating !!! Eml error was indicating cps, replaced that, light was off for a day !!!!!! Now back on , take loom out, black tape the lot, ok perhaps not, but high mileage motors need high time repairs!!!! Don’t suppose you know where the abs Fuse is? Or is it marked on fuse box?

 

[splitshift]

I suspect rear wheel bearing and sensor replacement will be required, and THEN. will probably STILL need to get conductor plate changed!!!! And then, I realise I’ve probably spent twice what it’s worth !!!!!
Mercedes Benz the gift that keeps taking!!! Still my clk is still going well, and it’s a 2001. Thanks for your help by the way, it’s things like this that show the worlds, generally , full of good helpful people

 

[LostKiwi]

I understand ! Like I said I am now at the, “ I am going to fix this” stage , just want to be able to drive it to and from the garage without the abs activating !!! Eml error was indicating cps, replaced that, light was off for a day !!!!!! Now back on , take loom out, black tape the lot, ok perhaps not, but high mileage motors need high time repairs!!!! Don’t suppose you know where the abs Fuse is? Or is it marked on fuse box?

Should be marked on the card in the fuse box lid.

 

[splitshift]

Thank you , again !!!! I did notice another full car on a local free site, , only 600 pounds!! I might go see, I’ve still room on the drive, but only if I hide it from swmbo thanks I’ll keep you informed!

 

[splitshift]

Ok, that didn’t work ! Abs fuse out and the gearbox locks in park !!

 

[splitshift]

Just noticed a very worn track rod end, maybe, just maybe that’s the problem ! although I suspect, no chance!

 

[umblecumbuz]

Cleaning the reluctor ring, the sensor tip and its slot, and the jack plug that connects the sensor to the loom, are all sensible actions, but a decent scanner will take the guesswork out of isolating the exact fault

For instance, the iCarsoft MB II, which many on here use, is capable of reading live data as you drive. It can display the output signal from all four wheel sensors together, and will quickly pinpoint a faulty unit.

 

[LostKiwi]

Ok, that didn’t work ! Abs fuse out and the gearbox locks in park !!

Put the car in neutral then pull the fuse?

 

[splitshift]

Cleaning the reluctor ring, the sensor tip and its slot, and the jack plug that connects the sensor to the loom, are all sensible actions, but a decent scanner will take the guesswork out of isolating the exact fault

For instance, the iCarsoft MB II, which many on here use, is capable of reading live data as you drive. It can display the output signal from all four wheel sensors together, and will quickly pinpoint a faulty unit.

Live readings!!! That’s obviously the way forward! My friend has s good spark, he acquired the previous readings, I think I will just replace the corner in question , but by bit. Like I said , lots of black tape in evidence on that corner anyway !!!

 

[splitshift]

Doh!!!! Ok , now don’t shoot me! I have just noticed that as well as all of the above shenanigans, it would seem the bas light is” illuminated” I always assumed it was light “ bleeding” across from the adjoining light but I saw it on itself, faintly but on !
A whole new approach might be needed here!!! Brake lights seem ok but at least it stops me getting bored looking at the same bits of wire !!!!

 

[LostKiwi]

Doh!!!! Ok , now don’t shoot me! I have just noticed that as well as all of the above shenanigans, it would seem the bas light is” illuminated” I always assumed it was light “ bleeding” across from the adjoining light but I saw it on itself, faintly but on !
A whole new approach might be needed here!!! Brake lights seem ok but at least it stops me getting bored looking at the same bits of wire !!!!

Nope quite normal for ABS, ESP, BAS cruise all to be impacted if there is a wheel sensor issue as they all use information from the wheel sensors to operate. TPMS if you have it will also possibly be affected.

 

[splitshift]

Yes agree, I am just annoyed at myself for not noticing the light, I honestly thought it was just because the adjacent light was on , it’s really faint , hey ho , school days every days !