Help: Locked out of SLK

sailorP

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I have a lovely old SLK 32AMG (R170)
Does anyone know how to get into the car (or open the bonnet) when the battery is flat?
The car has been laid up on a SORN since November, has been run every month, but otherwise untouched. Previous lay-ups have been in a garage with battery on trickle, but this year...new house, garage full of stuff, so she's outside in the cold, poor thing.
Last night the alarm went off for 20 minutes. Hazard lights were not flashing.
I tried the remote, which would not shut off the alarm.
I also tried to open the driver's door manually (prised out the plastic shield cap, and turned the key in the slot).
The alarm has stopped sounding, but the central locking has not de-activated.
This morning I changed the batteries in the remote, but the car remains resolute and locked, no sign of operation of hazard lights or central locking.
I also tried the driver's door lock again, no joy.
IIIRC, the driver's door key slot is not a lock as such, but a switch to arm and disable the central locking. I can't check to see if I am right as the manual is locked in the car. Can anyone confirm? I'm assuming this because at the moment the key slot in the driver's door only allows the key to turn about 10degrees either way, like a switch...it doesn't operate like a conventional door lock turning 90degrees.
I diagnose general electrical weakness, causing central locking and alarm etc to fail...it's very cold out and battery has probably discharged with the alarm running, it's also a bit damp, so what power there is probably leaking away through damp connectors etc.
I'd like to open the bonnet and put the battery on trickle for a while, then see if everything works again, but can't get into the car to open the bonnet release.
I do have home start from the AA, but I'm checking with the forum in case there is a solution that any of you guys know. I'm hoping for to a brilliant technical solution from someone who has had this problem before, before I get the AA to resort to the slim jim to prise the door open.
Thanks Phil
 

Xtractorfan

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The door lock will be seized up and will need much lubrication... WD40 or any penetrating oil you have to hand... A vibrating sander or similar held against the key will help to loosen the corrosion and free up the lock..just remember to remove any sandpaper from the sander.
 

television

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If you can get a charger lead onto the fat terminal on the starter, the remote will work. As above, holding something that vibrates on the key will shake down the tumblers to the profile of the key, do follow up with PTFE sprayed into the lock.
 

EmilysDad

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.....
IIIRC, the driver's door key slot is not a lock as such, but a switch to arm and disable the central locking. ....

No, it's a manual means of unlocking your car in such circumstance as you're in now, ie the main battery is too flat to operate the central locking. As above, due to lack of use, the lock mechanism is now seized.
 
OP
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sailorP

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Typical me, too smart for my own good.
It's fixed, many thanks to all for suggestions.
I used a bit of WD40, and hey presto, it opened.
Battery is now on charge, and I'm hoping that the battery isn't ruined from neglect....it's only a year old.
That will teach me to neglect her!
 

EmilysDad

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I used a bit of WD40, and hey presto, it opened.
....


So, now that you've displaced the water (Water displacement 40 :rolleyes:) you need to lub the locks with something a little more long lasting. You can either pay through the nose for something with a Tri-Star on it :eek: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ea5fe0cd or use something else a little cheaper http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-LOCK-...791?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c6aea3c57 ;)
 

television

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What we all need to do, is get a bulk order for the lock covers as in my signature. Just think no more seized locks.
 

television

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Do they not just trap any water already in there ........... :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Not at all, they are a perfect shape and fit snugly in to the lock, the peg on these covers is the same size as the metal blade. I need some for my current cars.
 

Wirral_guy

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So, now that you've displaced the water (Water displacement 40 :rolleyes:) you need to lub the locks with something a little more long lasting. You can either pay through the nose for something with a Tri-Star on it :eek: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ea5fe0cd or use something else a little cheaper http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-LOCK-...791?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c6aea3c57 ;)

As above - this stuff is brilliant - goes in wet but dries to just leave graphite powder. I have recently done it to all my locks on the car and then all my house locks (because...well, just because :) ) and my front door lock now turns like it's on bearings. Quick note: easy does it - a quick press is all that's needed otherwise you flood the lock.

I bought a 3-pack (they are tiny) for £5.65:

Graphite Lock Lube X 3

Dave
 
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Sorry everyone....new here and not paying attention....that was years ago .I just saw the date....embarrassed
 
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