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How to fix 230 boot leaks (new version)

Discussion in 'Bodywork, Tyres, Wheels & Trim' started by television, Mar 30, 2015.

  1. Sally747

    Sally747 New Member

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    That would be great is that an official meet where a few people turn up ..?
     
  2. SimonW359

    SimonW359 New Registration

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    Leaking SL boot..

    Hi Malcolm,
    Having just registered on this site, and looking for answers about my 2007 SL350 leaking boot, I noticed that in 2015 you were offering your services to repair the seal for £40 for a 2-4 hour job. Are you still offering this service and what's your 2017 rate? Although I live in Norfolk, I'm constantly going "down South" to see my family so coming to you isn't a problem.
    I'm on 07867 413921 in case you're unable to respond to this message.
    All the best,
    Simon
     
  3. DeanoPremo

    DeanoPremo New Member

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    As Simon above, desperately seeking the council and experience of Malcolm to carry out this, (in my case, much needed), procedure. My SL 500 (2002 78k) has put me through the wringer over the last two years out of a 3 year ownership. Front ball joints, ABC nightmares, water ingress, blah blah and now she is in the indi garage with a broken boot latch, kaput central locking and possible PSE pump failure.

    All of this would be more than worth the financial and emotional journey if this beautiful machine was finally fully dry and functional. Bodyshop are ready to bring the exterior back to mint, interior leather guy ready and new 19" wheels/tyres chosen, all waiting for the thumbs-up.

    Apologies if you no longer wish to get involved with this fix, Malcolm but if there is a chance, it would be very much appreciated. I have tried a PM but maybe as new member it is disabled? Many thanks.
     
  4. drmw

    drmw Moderator

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    Malcolm's a bit incapacitated at the moment so wouldn't be able to help, but the fix is really straightforward - juts follow the stages one at a time - easily achieved in a few hours with no need for special tools and total cost under £10.
     
  5. DeanoPremo

    DeanoPremo New Member

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    Thanks David, hope he is ok, although I don't post normally, I read avidly and his input is invaluable. When I get her back, I will strap some balls on and try the DIY fix myself, I am loath to do it as totally cack-handed and it will take an age. Fingers crossed....
     
  6. flowrider99

    flowrider99 Senior Member

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    Also make sure the rear drains are clear (2 on each side). If thease are blocked it will make the issue worse.
     
  7. DeanoPremo

    DeanoPremo New Member

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    Thanks, understood. It will smell like a chip shop when I have finished throwing vinegar at at.
     
  8. DeanoPremo

    DeanoPremo New Member

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    Eventually got her back, (new boot latch assembly and new PSE pump installed).

    After that chunky bill, had a great incentive to get on with Malcolm's seal fixes!

    Followed the DIY as much as possible, (some areas better, some worse than the pics), with the Loctite after a deep clean. Back strip not too bad but the C pillar seals a pain to get clean. Was worried that I had screwed it up.
    Did the second 30 min water test with watering hose tonight and everything seems dry as a bone.
    Might be tempting fate but for tonight, a very happy bunny.

    All Hail, (and speedy recovery), Malcolm!

    BTW, might be in the wrong place to ask but next job is to clean all seals and play with the Gummi Pfledge. No problems with that but I have also bought some white lithium spray grease and silicone spray, I can't find a definitive guide of where to apply what and where on the roof mechanism....

    Any pointers would be appreciated.
     
  9. DeanoPremo

    DeanoPremo New Member

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    Worked it out. All good.
     
  10. flowrider99

    flowrider99 Senior Member

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    Did anyone download this DIY tutorial. Now all the pic's have gone it is near impossible to follow.

    Thanks
     
  11. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    I'll ask Malcolm if we can recover all the images and re-link them to a new host (save on here perhaps?)
     
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  12. flowrider99

    flowrider99 Senior Member

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    Thank you.
     
  13. rexemper

    rexemper Senior Member

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    Hi

    Did anyone get the pics in the end? I'd like to do the seal fix soon and it will be a lot easier with the pics.

    Alternatively, do any of the MB indies do this repair as well??

    Thanks
     
  14. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    If you click each picture itll take you to photobox. Click the top level album (television02) and you'll find all the photos.
     
  15. Naraic

    Naraic Moderator

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    To be clear...right click on a box to get all the pics. Great advice Alastair so many threads are not destroyed after all.
     
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  16. flowrider99

    flowrider99 Senior Member

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    I have downloaded the boot leaks DIY instructions, added all the pictures and created a PDF file if anyone is interested. The file is too large to upload here.
     
  17. triumphstag

    triumphstag Senior Member

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    Yes please.
     
  18. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    How to fix 230 boot leaks (new version)




    The 230 water leaks can be the rear window bottom rubber, and/or the C pillar seals or both.
    To check them, after the car has been out in the rain for some time, wipe the boot lid dry, and open it. Feel under the C pillar where it meets the rear window where the 2 drain pipes are fitted, if your hand or fingers have any water on them, then its leaking.

    The rubbers around the rear window and C pillars could be badly distorted due to the moss and debris that is under the rubber, or the rubbers can still be laying flat. Do not assume that this only affects the early cars, it does not and my 2009 car was as bad under the rear screen as my 2002 car.

    DSC01146_zpsvptte63z.jpg
    DSC01147_zpsidksb3bj.jpg

    The rear rubber that is under the window has 2 water channels; the one nearest to the boot is nothing more than a drain channel to catch any water that would run off the boot if you opened it in the rain or while wet. The drains at the top of the wings deal with this water.
    The water channel nearest the rear window is the main channel and it is this as above that gets out of shape, there are 2 drains just under the C pillars in the form of pipes.

    To get started with the car on level ground, you need to get the roof partially open in the intermediate position. You will need a piece of wood about 9” long by 6” wide, Start to open the roof and as soon as the top has moved back about 12” stop and turn off, the bleeper will sound, but that will stop. After 7 seconds the roof will slide forward again, or you can pull the roof forward, hold the wood so that it is on the roof lining and A pillar top lining as in the picture.
    DSC00329.jpg
    DSC00327.jpg

    The first thing to do is the rear seal at the bottom of the rear window, it is held on with 2 nuts at each end. I found it easier to pull the rubber off by lifting in the centre of the screen, and work your way to the ends, just pull the bottom out all the way along and it comes off, this way no damage to the rubber.
    DSC_0010_zpsrdib57oe.jpg
    DSC01148_zpsmfvayv1t.jpg
    DSC01147_zpsidksb3bj.jpg


    I used petrol on metal plate under the glass to clean of the old sealer. The rubber is much harder to clean. I found that a blunt wood chisel took most off, but much easier using a warm air gun and scraping again, finally cleaning down with petrol and 99% was removed

    DSC01150_zpsjtxie6z2.jpg

    You can use any silicon rubber sealer, I have used the Loctite 5940 and those sold by motor shops. Again as the rubber is only stuck to the metal, it was easier to run two beads of sealer, one under the curve on the metal, and another below.
    [​IMG]

    By putting it on the metal you do not smudge it when fitting the rubber. Start at one end by putting the screw studs through the holes and work your way along to the other end. Gently press the rubber down all the way along making sure that it is pushed up at the bottom all the way along. One can leave it for ½ hour at this stage. Now run your finger along and make sure it is all flat and open then roof so that the wood is free, and close the roof completely so that the boot is closed. The next job is to run a thin bead of sealer under the top edge of the rubber, easily done, just lift the top of the rubber at the top one end and insert the sealer nozzle and squeeze out a thin bead of sealer all the way along. Next start pressing down the rubber so that it flattens. Leave for ½ hour and go back running your finger all the way along the rubber and it will slowly go flat. Any sealer that has oozed out at the top can be wiped away with petrol on a cloth.

    If your rubbers were dead flat when you started, then that is it, leave for 1 day in the dry if you can.

    If you rubbers were distorted and lost their shape, you will need to do the following while the sealers are still soft. You will need 2 pieces of standard hose pipe with some insulating tape wrapped around to make it slightly fatter so that it is a tight fit when pushed down between the 2 bottom rubber channels will do the job nicely. On my early car the rubbers were badly out of shape, so I pushed 2 pieces of hosepipe in about 9” long, they can be cut down to about 1½" in the final stages. We are only using the 9" long pieces to stop the rubbers from pulling away while the sealer sets.

    This will not stop the draining channels from working as any excess water will go through the hose pipe, plus when all done and sealer set these pipes can cut down to 1½”

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    C pillar seal

    The next job is the C pillar seal, here we have the problem that water will go down the outside, up on the inside into the boot. I found it best to do the inside first. One can only do 90% of this as no access and done with the roof down and boot open by letting the roof open backwards and stopping when open. Just lift the rubber seal and if dry and clean squeeze some sealer all the way round as far as you can get, the last bit you can do later. Make sure all flat and sealed, tape it down if need be. Next the roof has to go back to the intermediate position by inserting the wood in the front again. You must clean out the muck and moss from the bottom of this rubber, a strong vinegar will kill the moss and cannot harm paintwork. Once dry squeeze in the mastic all the way to both ends. The hose pipe will be needed again to keep the pressure on the rubber to keep nice and flat to the metal
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    My thanks to Steve (carnut) for driving down to take the pictures.

    This car had been subject to a very poor repair and a mess
    [​IMG]
    The end of the day
    [​IMG]
    Original revised guide written by Television (Malcolm).
    Thread images fixed (moved from Photobucket).
     
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  19. Kiwigirl

    Kiwigirl New Member

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    I really need help with a detailed tutorial on how to get the trunk rubber seal off. I have tried to get it off a few times but I just cant get it off. Can someone tell me how. I saw a tutorial in the DIY section here with links to photobucket images but they do not show anymore. This problem is so serious because I can not take the car out when it rains. Found water under the battery and pse pump. It just pours in from the top rubbers. Can anyone tell me how much the top boot/trunk rubber costs?
     
  20. SL55 Mark

    SL55 Mark Senior Member

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    See Malcolm/Alistair's post above,

    "The first thing to do is the rear seal at the bottom of the rear window, it is held on with 2 nuts at each end. I found it easier to pull the rubber off by lifting in the centre of the screen, and work your way to the ends, just pull the bottom out all the way along and it comes off, this way no damage to the rubber."

    Your local MB dealership will quote for new seals if these are required.
     

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