Inlet port shut off motor delete (CDI2)

Graememl270

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ML270/2002/cdi
Inlet port flap delete, wiring question

Hello from a newbie who has been dipping in to the forum for a while and has finally joined. I have a MY2002 ML270 that I purchased in 2009 with 98,000 klm and just over 250,000 klm on it now.

The ML has been terrific for towing my 20 ft caravan around Australia and has given good economy and performance with and without the van attached.

From day one I have noticed a slight 'hunting' at idle and after reading this forum I have deleted the flaps. I left the flap motor electrically connected and will replace it with the resistor mod if it fails.

I started the flap removal job before I read the comments about it being a difficult, messy job, but once committed I have carried on over the past ten days (not full time) and have almost finished. During the job I slipped and damaged the sensor at the back of the thermostat housing. I have a plug at the end of the wiring harness and nothing to plug it into. Should I expect Error codes, limp home mode or other problems if I try to start up with the sensor not connected?

I hope it is not too ill mannered to ask a question in my first post (in my first forum too).

Thanks in advance.
 

panason1c

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Mercedes ML270CDI, VW Polo 1.9tdi, BMW K1200RS
If you run the engine without the temp sender plugged in you will find that the engine fan will immediately run continuously at full speed, other than that the engine will run fine with no dash lights or limp mode until you can fit another sender unit..
 

oigle

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2003 ML270 sold but not forgotten. 2022 Kia EV6 RWD LR
Hello from a newbie who has been dipping in to the forum for a while and has finally joined. I have a MY2002 ML270 that I purchased in 2009 with 98,000 klm and just over 250,000 klm on it now.

The ML has been terrific for towing my 20 ft caravan around Australia and has given good economy and performance with and without the van attached.

From day one I have noticed a slight 'hunting' at idle and after reading this forum I have deleted the flaps. I left the flap motor electrically connected and will replace it with the resistor mod if it fails.

I started the flap removal job before I read the comments about it being a difficult, messy job, but once committed I have carried on over the past ten days (not full time) and have almost finished. During the job I slipped and damaged the sensor at the back of the thermostat housing. I have a plug at the end of the wiring harness and nothing to plug it into. Should I expect Error codes, limp home mode or other problems if I try to start up with the sensor not connected?

I hope it is not too ill mannered to ask a question in my first post (in my first forum too).

Thanks in advance.

I would hope that you would now also do the egr delete to preserve the now clean inlet manifold. Easy job and well worth the effort.
Welcome to the forum.
 
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Graememl270

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Thanks oigle. This job has just exceeded my abilities a bit and the ml is booked in tomorrow for a mechanic to check and correct the sensor connections to the thermostat and the sump, (I damaged the connection at the thermostat and cannot find the wiring to connect there. The manifold itself is looking good with the flaps removed and the holes neatly plugged. With no connection to the thermostat sensor or the sump sensor, I have a lot of warning lights (and no Aircon) but engine is running well. also the engine cooling fan is running flat out, as expected.

Is the EGR delete electronic only or does a blocking plate need to be added as well? I did read the discussion thread but still not certain on that point.
 

oigle

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Thanks oigle. This job has just exceeded my abilities a bit and the ml is booked in tomorrow for a mechanic to check and correct the sensor connections to the thermostat and the sump, (I damaged the connection at the thermostat and cannot find the wiring to connect there. The manifold itself is looking good with the flaps removed and the holes neatly plugged. With no connection to the thermostat sensor or the sump sensor, I have a lot of warning lights (and no Aircon) but engine is running well. also the engine cooling fan is running flat out, as expected.

Is the EGR delete electronic only or does a blocking plate need to be added as well? I did read the discussion thread but still not certain on that point.

Yes, very easy to damage those little bits and pieces. Think I did warn you.... No, you don't need to blank off the egr. Better to leave it open and allow whatever exhaust heat you can in to the area to help with engine warmup. Make sure your egr valve is fully closed and you can also block the vacuum tube if you wish in case the diaphragm in the transducer is faulty.
Trust all finishes well for you.
 

Petoors

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c 270 cdi 2002
Resister did not solve the problem

Hi, new to the forum but been following it for a while now. Having the same problem with my 2002 C 270 cdi regarding the flaps . We jammed the flaps open (to the front on my car) and inserted a 4.7k ohms. Unfortunately this did not help as the car will still go into a go slow mode. Still shows the error as the motor on inlet manifold. All I can think is that there is a problem with the wiring from the ECU to the resister and it is then read as an error. Can any one tell me where the ECU is located and how I find plug 4. Think I will be able to find the pins . Please I need help as I am getting desperate now.:confused:
 
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Alex Crow

Alex Crow

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  • Thread starter
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How did you connect the resistor - which wires?
What fault code do you have (P1189?)?
 

Petoors

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c 270 cdi 2002
Resistor

How did you connect the resistor - which wires?
What fault code do you have (P1189?)?
Connected the resistor between the red and black wire that is connected to the swirl motor. Had the car at an auto electrician to check if the wires were ok and not maybe broken off inside the harness but it was found all in order. I then out of desperation cut the two wires and took the resistor out and left the wires open. Took the car for a spin and all in order. Came back, taped the wires so that it can not short ant left them unconnected. Done 1000km now without any problems. I can not explain how the car can now run without any problems as it should sense that the swirl motor on manufault is not connected. Not complaining as the car goes like a train with the two lose wires...Just love it
 
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Alex Crow

Alex Crow

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Sounds like you had the wrong wires, what about that fault code?

Either way, if it drives OK then great!
 

illegalhixxy

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ml270cdi 2000
just to give you an update on my ml mpg after doing the inlet manifold swirl flap removal, egr delete in the software ( with it left in place closed) and remap to 200bhp , before my cruising was 70-85 mph on long journeys but not motorway mainly a roads dual carriageways i was getting 30-32 mpg now my cruising speed was 80-90 mph and i got 31.15mpg not bad considering wind resistance at nearly 90. i suspect if i can find the will power to do my marathon 400 mile round trip at 65-70mph that i could see 35mpg just. so over all much better performance and the biggest change is the new autobox software settings in the remap and the increased torque means the torque sensors tell the gearbox to change up sooner so when you come off throttle your always in a higher gear than prior to remap which means that you roll like a car, prior to remap you came off throttle and it was like someone pulling the handbrake on slowing down as it was always in a lower gear, and in the 3 months i've had her i've now done 10k. perfect long distance cruiser and will do an early x5d off the lights now. and i never have to worry bout that inlet swirl flap problem again.
 

stumo

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ML270CDI x3 2002,03,04 | Sprinter 316CDI 2003 LWB
Sounds like you had a faulty incline sensor in the gearbox. Its designed to hold a lower gear if you come off throttle quickly when going downhill. You van disable that senor/feature using star. But I never had a problem with it like you had.
 

J16SBR

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Cls 2006 320 CDi / W124 320
Afternoon all,

I think i have symptoms similar to a lot of people on here, 120k miles, well serviced CLS 320cdi with a brabus tuning box. Car drives really well and then when you gun it...it struggles to rev over 2k and is in a limp mode. Turn it off and back on and its back to normal. I think i will take it to a Merc specialist in Leeds (Pudsey) to have a look.

Can i ask, the resistor mod...how easy is this to do? i had a look through this forum topic and might have missed pictures showing how and what to do, if its pretty simple i may try this before taking the car to the specialist

Also unrelated...the brake pedal is pushing back and the car creeps forward. If i pump the accelerator a little the brakes work fine? so sometimes they work fine and other times its like there is not braking assistance, I think this may be the brake booster that is tired, anyone else had this?
 

rpe2

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Not on this engine.

At a guess I'd say the turbo is messing the end of the road, a star test would confirm.
 

J16SBR

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Cls 2006 320 CDi / W124 320
Hi all,

I did the resistor mod, pretty simple and im not technical at all. £0.49p from maplin. The car still runs fine but will still go into a "limp" mode if i push it very hard, i can still accelerate to above 100mph without it going into this limp mode, but thats slowly increasing the speed..

As soon as i turn it off, and restart, its back to normal?

Any ideas? It also returned me 35mpg on the motorway today so its actually performing ok, just annoying to have to restart it every so often.

thanks in advance for the help
 

rpe2

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I'd still sick with my first guess.
 

nornesn

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W204 c200 cdi
W638 V220cdi

Hi! I have a 2000my W638 V220cdi.

I just switched to a used ECU in the car and then came up error code p1189 and the car goes in limp mode.
I suspect it may have been a inlet port valves on the engine the ECU is coming from. it's not inlet port valves on my car. Is there an opportunity to solder a resistor in to my ecu? And does anyone know which pins on the ECU I must solder to?
 

C350cdi2010

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C350cdi with dpf 2010
Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where to get the below Torx screw from, dealers do not sell them independently it comes with the manifold, but all i have done is lost the screw. attached on inlet port shut off motor - it goes into the metal clip onto the manifold.

I have attached the picture as to which metal part i am talking about..??
Pleae help otherwise i will need to buy the whole manifold for £1500 rather than a simple screw. please
 

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rpe2

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Try a good motor factor
 

nornesn

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W204 c200 cdi
W638 V220cdi

Hi! I have a 2000my W638 V220cdi.

I just switched to a used ECU in the car and then came up error code p1189 and the car goes in limp mode.
I suspect it may have been a inlet port valves on the engine the ECU is coming from. it's not inlet port valves on my car. Is there an opportunity to solder a resistor in to my ecu? And does anyone know which pins on the ECU I must solder to?
 

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