Is it important to diagonally tighten wheel nuts?

[Craiglxviii]

Bet they are a little bigger than 14mm though

40mm hollow thick walled from memory.

 

[M80]

It costs nowt to cross tighten so that's what I'll continue to do.
I cross tighten to manufacturers torque, then again +10 Nm or so.
Finally I check 'em all circular wise for 2 clicks on the torque wrench.

I watched an engineer refit a steel wheel to his yacht trailer on Sunday. He stood on his wrench to torque it up.
When I said that'll just leave you stuffed if you have a punture on a cold wet night he was a little put out.

 

[JBell]

I cross tighten to manufacturers torque, then again +10 Nm or so.

Why would you deliberately overtighten wheel bolts???

 

[Submariner1]

It costs nowt to cross tighten so that's what I'll continue to do.
I cross tighten to manufacturers torque, then again +10 Nm or so.
Finally I check 'em all circular wise for 2 clicks on the torque wrench.

I watched an engineer refit a steel wheel to his yacht trailer on Sunday. He stood on his wrench to torque it up.
When I said that'll just leave you stuffed if you have a punture on a cold wet night he was a little put out.

"Engineer" :-/

 

[V6Matty]

"Engineer" :-/

Must be a boat engineer so not used to wheels

 

[drmw]

25 posts about wheel bolts?!?!

 

[John Laidlaw]

Well they are very exciting David....

 

[Craiglxviii]

Well they are very exciting David....

This thread has been quite... rivetting

 

[Ken_R]

Back in the 1970's there was a serious problem in the HGV Industry with vehicles losing wheels. These things aren't exactly small when rolling unattached and, from memory, there were a number of fatalities.

In the light of such, the Institute of Road Transport Engineers (now the Society of Operations Engineers) instituted a University supported research programme into the causes. They examined all types of wheel fixings, coned, spigot, etc. Being at the time, a member, and receiving updates via their monthly magazine, I followed the progress avidly.

However, after many years of research, they were unable to identify any singular cause. In 1986 they published a book/guidance based on their research entitled, "The Lost Wheels Mystery". Looking on Amazon, it is currently out of print.

In essence, the conclusions were to re-torque a wheel after 50km, or, if not used, after (I think) 2 hours, or it could have been 4 hours.

Personally, because MB use bolts that go through the hub assembly, I will use copper grease on the threads to prevent corrosion on the exposed/protruding portion of the thread.

To me, there is nothing more infuriating than to have a puncture, with everything to hand, and then being unable to release the wheel nuts. When I first got my car, I went around the vehicle to 'crack' the wheel nuts. Some yielded, others didn't! The 'supplied' wrench just wasn't up to the job, and neither was my (cheapo) spider. I ended up going to my 'mate' mechanic who 'cracked' them with a somewhat long Breaker Bar.

I subsequently purchased a suitable socket and an 18" Breaker Bar which sits happily with the spare wheel.

I will 'crack' and re-torque the bolts perhaps twice a year.

 

[LostKiwi]

If a wheel is tight on the spigot then opposites is the way to ensure it pulls down square on the hub mating faces.
As an aside if I have locking wheel bolts I always put them either in line with the valve or opposite the valve (depending on wheel design) as it makes it quicker and easier when you get a puncture and it's inevitably dark and raining.

 

[EmilysDad]

If a wheel is tight on the spigot then opposites is the way to ensure it pulls down square on the hub mating faces......

Same on the Smart?

 

[John Laidlaw]

This thread has been quite... rivetting

Nuts isn't it?

 

[John Laidlaw]

If a wheel is tight on the spigot then opposites is the way to ensure it pulls down square on the hub mating faces.
As an aside if I have locking wheel bolts I always put them either in line with the valve or opposite the valve (depending on wheel design) as it makes it quicker and easier when you get a puncture and it's inevitably dark and raining.

I'm not a fan of locking wheel nuts, inevitably they will cause you problems at some point or other!

 

[LostKiwi]

Same on the Smart?

Not enough power to matter...

 

[LostKiwi]

I'm not a fan of locking wheel nuts, inevitably they will cause you problems at some point or other!

Agreed. Only one of my 3 has them and that's only because I can't be bothered buying new bolts

 

[bob 6600]

25 posts about wheel bolts?!?!

35 now

A simple yes or no to the OP's title question would have been sufficient.

 

[John Laidlaw]

Yes

 

[yorkshire1]

You put opposite BOLTS in a wheel to hold it on the hub better when initially fitting the wheel, this also gives even pressure across the hub when putting the remaining bolts in.

When final tightening is done with a Torque wrench it does not matter which order you do them in.

Lubricant should NEVER be used on bolt threads and you should always tighten to the manufacturers recommendation.

lubricant should ALWAYS be used on any exterior bolt, the pain expense and hassle caused by the non use of lubricant far outweighs any perceived downside by a country mile

 

[John Laidlaw]

Uh oh- it's going again....

 

[flowrider]

Lets at least get to 50 posts.

Surely the topic of lubricating nuts has to be worth 10 posts.