Paul Goff
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2017
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- Your Mercedes
- 2002 C220CDi CD Estate
The constant charge voltage for lead acid batteries is 2.3Volts SMOOTH DC (No AC ripple) per cell at 20 degrees centigrade
So 13.8 VDC for a car battery. Some temperature compensation is ideal, usually 0.030VDC per cell per degree centigrade, this would be inverse to temp, so rises as temp drops.
Given the above, the battery can be left on charge permanently, it will regulate it's own current draw. A 13.8VDC regulated power supply will, if it has enough ability to supply current, charge a dead flat battery given time. A typical supply unit of say 13.8VDC and 10Amps rating will easily charge a completely flat 100 Amp Hour Battery of any type, Ignition & Lights (car), Deep Discharge, Standby, Traction etc within a day.
Intelligent automotive chargers usually, in the interest of achieving a faster charge time, have three automatic modes. The first two provide a higher voltage, typically 14.5 ish and 14.2 ish followed by a permanent trickle of 13.8. and can therefore be left connected permanently.
Is 14.7 a problem? That depends on how long it stays that high for and how much current the charger can deliver. If for no longer than a few hours after initial charge start, and/or max current rating below about 5A, then that's fine. The charger should change to the lower voltages as the battery voltage rises with the level of charge. Even if it does not, the battery will merely self regulate at a slightly higher current than ideal, this is not likely to cause any damage even for a couple of weeks!
Desulphate regimes are a different matter! Not a battery damage one, it's probably worn out anyway. These modes should NOT be automatic as they often involve pulses of voltage approaching 30V! and must therefore be carried out with the battery completely disconnected from the vehicle and ideally, removed entirely.
Of course the voltages and temperatures I am referring to are at/of the battery, the voltage displayed by the charger may not accurately reflect that!
Also the voltage presented to the battery by the vehicles own charging system is of no relevance, that is raw DC, as unsmoothed as it can be, and will easily cook the battery if unregulated! The alternator can deliver a HUGE amount of current.
So 13.8 VDC for a car battery. Some temperature compensation is ideal, usually 0.030VDC per cell per degree centigrade, this would be inverse to temp, so rises as temp drops.
Given the above, the battery can be left on charge permanently, it will regulate it's own current draw. A 13.8VDC regulated power supply will, if it has enough ability to supply current, charge a dead flat battery given time. A typical supply unit of say 13.8VDC and 10Amps rating will easily charge a completely flat 100 Amp Hour Battery of any type, Ignition & Lights (car), Deep Discharge, Standby, Traction etc within a day.
Intelligent automotive chargers usually, in the interest of achieving a faster charge time, have three automatic modes. The first two provide a higher voltage, typically 14.5 ish and 14.2 ish followed by a permanent trickle of 13.8. and can therefore be left connected permanently.
Is 14.7 a problem? That depends on how long it stays that high for and how much current the charger can deliver. If for no longer than a few hours after initial charge start, and/or max current rating below about 5A, then that's fine. The charger should change to the lower voltages as the battery voltage rises with the level of charge. Even if it does not, the battery will merely self regulate at a slightly higher current than ideal, this is not likely to cause any damage even for a couple of weeks!
Desulphate regimes are a different matter! Not a battery damage one, it's probably worn out anyway. These modes should NOT be automatic as they often involve pulses of voltage approaching 30V! and must therefore be carried out with the battery completely disconnected from the vehicle and ideally, removed entirely.
Of course the voltages and temperatures I am referring to are at/of the battery, the voltage displayed by the charger may not accurately reflect that!
Also the voltage presented to the battery by the vehicles own charging system is of no relevance, that is raw DC, as unsmoothed as it can be, and will easily cook the battery if unregulated! The alternator can deliver a HUGE amount of current.