Led scuff plates

[Big Gordy]

Hi guys. Need a bright spark lol to help with wiring the LED scuff plates I bought. I need a source thats live when Car is unlocked but off when Car is locked. No use a source that goes live with key in ignition. I tried the footwell light but it’s on canbus and doesn’t work. Light on bottom of door works but I’m having a nightmare trying to get wires to it from inside cabin. Cigar lighter doesn’t go live till keys in. Any help would be Brilliant

 

[L John]

I doubt you will find a usable live that works in the way you describe.
You could use a permanent live and go to the LED via a microswitch that switches on when the door is unlocked.
You would have to rig the switch up in a position next to the moving locking mechanism, so when the door unlocks, it pushes the microswitch arm.

 

[LostKiwi]

You should be able to take a feed from the interior light.

 

[Big Gordy]

Think the lights on the door would be ok they don’t dim like the interior light do. Just watched s post on YouTube that shows how to do it although a different model should be similar.

 

[Big Gordy]

Update for anyone wanting to fit led scuff plates. Piggy back onto the wires from either the red door light or the puddle light at bottom of the door it’s a bit awkward to get the wire thru into the cabin but it works perfectly. Led lights up with the door being opened without key in ignition.
There is a YouTube guide how to by a guy called Raymond Urias called how to install a light up door sill on a Mercedes Benz.

 

[L John]

That would be the usual way to do it but you said you wanted them on when the doors were unlocked and off when they were locked?

 

[ZZZZ]

When I retrofitted the illuminated door sills (OEM) to my car, I looked at the 'official' way to do it (I bought a brand new, full kit with the wiring harness), as per WIS, and decided it was too cumbersome - half the car had to be stripped, and SAM plugs re-pinned, etc.

Essentially the actuation for the door sills, is exactly the same as the courtesy door lights, as Big Gordy indicated above: ON when open, goes OFF after 5 min; and OFF when door is closed.

It was pretty easy to pick a signal off a door control modules, and feed through to the sills controls.

One thing to remember - at least for the C169 / W169 - the OEM lights are not run on 12V, and need their own power supply units, which come as a part of the wiring harness - something to remember, if buying used sills.

 

[Submariner1]

When I retrofitted the illuminated door sills (OEM) to my car, I looked at the 'official' way to do it (I bought a brand new, full kit with the wiring harness), as per WIS, and decided it was too cumbersome - half the car had to be stripped, and SAM plugs re-pinned, etc.

Essentially the actuation for the door sills, is exactly the same as the courtesy door lights, as Big Gordy indicated above: ON when open, goes OFF after 5 min; and OFF when door is closed.

It was pretty easy to pick a signal off a door control modules, and feed through to the sills controls.

One thing to remember - at least for the C169 / W169 - the OEM lights are not run on 12V, and need their own power supply units, which come as a part of the wiring harness - something to remember, if buying used sills.

One of mine is scuffed so I found some with LED lights. Like you I looked up the officail WIS Upgrade process.
I was shocked at the amount of work involved. Honestly it would have been cheaper to upgrade the car than have that done in an MB shop!
OK I am not handy like you are, but the amount of stuff you have to strip out on a CL C216 is unbelievable.

 

[ZZZZ]

Yes, it's pretty much the same across the board, for a similar age models: carpet out, battery out (169/245 specific, as it's under the driver's feet), disconnected for sure for others; seats out; both sides of under the dash covering out; fuse box out and re-wired; glove box out; door seals partially out; SAM unplugged, at least two plugs re-pinned, etc etc - just insane ...

 

[Submariner1]

Yes, it's pretty much the same across the board, for a similar age models: carpet out, battery out (169/245 specific, as it's under the driver's feet), disconnected for sure for others; seats out; both sides of under the dash covering out; fuse box out and re-wired; glove box out; door seals partially out; SAM unplugged, at least two plugs re-pinned, etc etc - just insane ...

Yep and there was dummy me thinking
It is probably a matter of pulling off scuff panel, and clip the wiring into some female connector on the harness and push back the new plate
Lol!