NEW turbo alternatives?

[Craiglxviii]

Thanks for the other replies.
I'm still kinda dubious it's an actual turbo fault, unless they're very short lived. I've had this problem from time to time ever since I got the car ..... hindsight says I should have taken it back to MB at the time ..... there was only 40k on the clock at the time. Would a turbo really die so soon?

No, unless as LK says it's eaten something. In which case it would go with a bang, a cough and a lot of blue smoke.

Seriously I;m half persuaded that it's a sensor issue. It sounds just too similar to mine to be anything else. Matty and I have said the same thing.

 

[EmilysDad]

It would be unusual for a turbo to fail that early unless it had ingested something.

And the turbo itself spin a freely

 

[Craiglxviii]

And the turbo itself spin a freely

A turbo will either work, or not work. No inbetween. If it's not working you'd know all about it as it affects around 45% of engine power.

If it's a swirl flap/ actuator issue, this can be determined with Star.

If it's a failing sensor though, this would produce various fault codes... like mine & Matty's did. Remind me please, have you actually had codes read on this yet?

 

[EmilysDad]

A turbo will either work, or not work. No inbetween. If it's not working you'd know all about it as it affects around 45% of engine power.

If it's a swirl flap/ actuator issue, this can be determined with Star.

If it's a failing sensor though, this would produce various fault codes... like mine & Matty's did. Remind me please, have you actually had codes read on this yet?

Yes, no idea what they were thiugh. It was at a Merc specialist this morning who phoned me with the good news. He said he'd operated various via STAR & road tested it. His prognosis is 'a sticking variable vane turbo' and as all specialists cover themselves by fitting only OE parts, £2500 is his quote.
I've towed miles without problem, just every now and then it does this kangarooing after booting it.

He said it was over boost g due to the sticky vanes, hence confusing the fueling side of things. I'll ask again when I collect the car ...... but it'll be Mon at the soonest.

 

[V6Matty]

Mine was charge pressure too high iirc, like I say it was an O2 sensor for about £9.

 

[EmilysDad]

Mine was charge pressure too high iirc, like I say it was an O2 sensor for about £9.

Thanks. I think I need a second opinion.

Anyone of the professionals have an opinion?

 

[Craiglxviii]

Thanks. I think I need a second opinion.

Anyone of the professionals have an opinion?

You've had two opinions both saying the same thing already

 

[om613]

Is it worth stumping up 70-100 quid for one of those carbon cleans?

They claim to cure things like sticky actuators and egr valves.

https://www.eliteenginecarbonclean.co.uk/

I've no experience but it sounds like a good thing in general for an engine so might be worth a punt.

Seems they inject H2 to clean the combustion bits.
IF that works...then it wouldn't on any parts past the exhaust valves, I would have thought.

 

[EmilysDad]

You've had two opinions both saying the same thing already

I know .....

I just wondered if those that got their hands dirty under 3 point star bonnet had something to say too

 

[EmilysDad]

.... Phil has reported a rash of exhaust backpressure sensor failures in the market; mine is having that changed now.......

Where's the back pressure sensor live then Craig?

 

[Craiglxviii]

Where's the back pressure sensor live then Craig?

I'm not sure. Exhaust manifold I believe- might be wrong. IIRC it's 30 minutes labour total to swap out.

 

[EmilysDad]

I'm not sure. Exhaust manifold I believe- might be wrong. IIRC it's 30 minutes labour total to swap out.

Ta
I'll ask one of the lads in MB parts

 

[Westheath]

Hi

The electrical VNT actuator can be replaced separately, no calibration.

The OEM spindle bearing floats in oil, its not a ball race type,
oil condition is essential in turbo charged engines.

The VNT assembly is prone to sticking depending on use (pottering around),
remove actuator rod from VNT lever and there should be 10-12mm
of free movement on the VNT arm absolutely no resistance, none.

Don't use Oven cleaning type products, it can attack Aluminium.

I have never found any product to work long term
that simply pours into the turbo assembly on the vehicle,
and left to soak for "x" hours.

I have stock of reconditioned electrical actuators and turbo housings
with VNT assembly's but no spindle cartridges (I assemble as required).

That's how often I come across this problem.

Remove the turbo, clean it see what happens.

Some part numbers for you.





.

 

[tony jr]

Take a look at this: http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/ml320-jerky-acceleration.160547/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[EmilysDad]

Take a look at this: http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/ml320-jerky-acceleration.160547/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Tony.
I'm very much looking at the electrical actuator ..... a very knowledgeable (of everything )friend called the Merc 'specialists' diagnosis, a spread bet .....
I'll get a refurb kit for it, remove it again & see what happens.

 

[EmilysDad]

....


The VNT assembly is prone to sticking depending on use (pottering around),
remove actuator rod from VNT lever and there should be 10-12mm
of free movement on the VNT arm absolutely no resistance, none.

When I removed & cleaned the actuator a month or two back, the actuator rod to the turbo was very free, though at the time I'd never seen inside a variable vane turbo, so didn't know exactly what was happening inside.

And I don't tend to potter around

 

[Westheath]

The pottering part wasn't aimed at you but a generalization

The actuator rod is motorized and shouldn't be moved at all by hand
as this can damage the worm gear inside it.

To test the VNT operation the actuator is disconnected from the turbo and the VNT arm
is then checked for movement, not the actuator.

It might be the description of the parts in this thread that's a bit off causing a little confusion,
but I'm sure you removed and cleaned it and checked correctly.

 

[EmilysDad]

The pottering part wasn't aimed at you but a generalization

The actuator rod is motorized and shouldn't be moved at all by hand
as this can damage the worm gear inside it.

To test the VNT operation the actuator is disconnected from the turbo and the VNT arm
is then checked for movement, not the actuator.

It might be the description of the parts in this thread that's a bit off causing a little confusion,
but I'm sure you removed and cleaned it and checked correctly.

I wasn't offended
I understood which bits should have moved freely & when I did have visions of the E clip holding the actuator arm to the VNT pinging into the depths of the engine bay but it didn't. instead I dropped my 1/4 drive extension down there followed by a magnet on a stick trying to retrieve it ....

 

[Larkone]

Re E clip. I always tie a piece of fishing line/strong thread to them when taking them on and off so they can be recovered without having to take the engine out.

 

[Westheath]

I wasn't offended
I understood which bits should have moved freely & when I did have visions of the E clip holding the actuator arm to the VNT pinging into the depths of the engine bay but it didn't. instead I dropped my 1/4 drive extension down there followed by a magnet on a stick trying to retrieve it ....

Ah.....all normal stuff then