No power in my 06 CDI

[Mark D]

Hey guys -
Got an issue with my 06 320 CDI inline 6. She has 260k miles. One day she was fine, the next morning I have a loss of power and a CEL. She runs ok but no boost when you hit the pedal.

Codes were:
P0243 - Turbo wastegate malfunction
P2009 - fuel water content sensor.(fuel filter)
P0489 - Exhaust gas recirculation control short to earth
P0102A - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
The descriptions are what I got off the web but I'm not 100% sure for my car.
And I had a Coolant Temp alert on the dash but the coolant was fine. All of this made me think there might be a fuse blown.


Since then, I've done more trouble shooting and made some progress. I put a new MAF on. I found Fuse 44 blown, replace it and it blew again. It appears this is for the turbo actuator, among others. I replaced the fuse and took the linkage off the turbo actuator to see whether the Turbo was locked up or whether the actuator was bad. The turbo moves freely and the actuator appears to work. I put the linkage back on and when I start the engine, the actuator pulls the lever down for a few seconds and then pushes it all the way up. I'm almost positive it did not do this before I took the lever off (I looked to see). It's almost like the actuator was unable to move the turbo before ( causing the fuse to blow) and then after I removed the linkage and put it back, it got better and its not blowing the fuse.

I thought it might be fixed but when I took it on a test drive, it still don't have the thrust I used to have when you hit the gas. There were NO Codes showing in the test drive but it was only about 5 miles. Fuse 44 and the associated actuator was definitely part of the problem but she's still not working right. I don't know what conditions the turbo operates completely so I'm not sure its working properly. While in park, if you hit the pedal hard, the turbo actuator is not moving but I don't know if it should under those conditions. It has not been in limp mode at any time during this.

What else can be going on that it causing me to get no boost when I hit the gas?

Thanks guys!
Mark

 

[Mark D]

I've heard others talk about a kick-down switch... any thoughts on the whole issue?

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

Inlet port shut off motor is failing causing the fuse to blow. It will always through the turbo as its power runs on the same circuit. Also why you are flagging the EGR valve.

Common problem.

 

[Mark D]

Thanks Steve,
Can you clarify a little? The turbo actuator seems to be working after I disconnected the linkage and reconnected it and the fuse is no longer blowing.
Is the Inlet port shutoff motor you mention the same thing as I call the Turbo Actuator?
Your comment on the EGR isn't clear when I read it. Are you saying I should be considering the EGR as a possible issue?

 

[Mark D]

Steve, I disconnected the Turbo linkage and test drove it. I put the turbo lever in the down position and tried it. Then I pulled it up and tried it. No diff either way. I will say that the lever appeared to fall down while I was testing. I did get a P2015 after removing the linkage but after moving the turbo lever, it went away.

Thinking out loud here:
- How can I tell whether the Turbo is working or not? The Turbo lever is so easy to move it seems like its nor really moving anything inside. But I have no experience with how easy it should be to move.
- When I hit the pedal, the tranny doesn't kick down. I think it's suppose to. Is there a switch I should check?
- I've read the a bad EGR can cause some of this. I can see that but it seems like with F44 being blown and no kickdown, it seems like its more about the turbo; I could be wrong. I'm just thinking out loud.
** I just removed the EGR. It's pretty dry with not much smoot on it. I ran the engine and revved it up but the EGR doesn't move. I'm not sure whether or not it would under the circumstances. I did not that when reeving, the Turbo arm was moving up and down. Still don't know if the Turbo is actually working but the arm was moving.
- Is there a way I can check whether the EGR needs replacing?

Thanks again - I'm trying to fix her quickly because I have to go in the road next week.

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

The inlet port shut off motor is what is connected to the inlet manifold. It shares a common power with the turbo actuator, the EGR, the exhaust back pressure sensor. When the IPS motor starts to fail it draws a heavy current, blowing the fuse for all the components. The turbo actuator (what operates the waste gate on the turbo) and EGR is logged as its all on the same circuit.

If you had star you could actuate all those components to be sure of your diagnosis.

I have never had an outright turbo failure or boost pressure regulator blow the fuse, it just generates a limp mode.

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

You should never manually move the turbo actuator. You can't fool the turbo by moving it that way, its electronic so other values that the ECU uses to move it must be met. I assume that is what you mean...??

If you are close to an Indie with STAR you can test all the components and attain a 100% diagnosis.

 

[Mark D]

Thanks Steve - where is the inlet port shut off motor located on my 06 e320 inline 6?

 

[M80]

I thought any 320 CDI would be V6 by 2006 ??

 

[Mark D]

I thought any 320 CDI would be V6 by 2006 ??

Nope - mine is inline

 

[Mark D]

ok, it looks like the inlet shutoff motor is under the intake manifold and a bear to take off. I assume this is what people also call the Swirl motor... Is that correct Steve?

When I crank and run the engine, the swirl motor doesn't appear to move. Should it while idling or revving up? How can I tell whether its bad without taking it to someone? (it a long way to anyone).

 

[Mark D]

Bump -
Steve or others - can someone confirm that 1) what Steve calls the Inlet port shut off motor is the same as the Swirl motor and 2) its located under the intake manifold.
I'm trying to determine whether this is my problem (as Steve suggest it might be) before I go to the trouble of replacing it. I can move the swirl motor with a screwdriver and the movement is smooth. It springs back to the home position. It doesn't appear to move when I run the engine and rev it up but I'm not sure it's suppose to under that condition. Mine is the Inline 6, not the V6.

On the turbo - I'm still suspicious of why the fuse F44 doesn't blow any more because I didn't really fix anything. It was the first thing that I discovered and after I replaced it, it blew again. After removing the turbo linkage from the actuator and checking to see whether the turbo arm and actuator moved smoothly, the fuse no longer blew. I can see the turbo arm move down when I start the engine and then it moves it up a few seconds later. I assume its working correctly but don't know for sure.

I am still occasionally getting p2015 and I still don't have the boost when I accelerate.

Thanks guys - I really appreciate the help!

 

[mersum1es]

AH thread is also here.. I answered something in US forum...

Yes motor is same, swirl or inlet port.

What is p2015? If its M55 position sensor (if I recall right actually no position monitored but circuit condition), your M55 is faulty. Did you search resistor shunt info? Fuse will blow eventually again, and at some point, your ECU is in danger. Remember few cases reported where fault has eventually fried ECU.
Spring will keep flaps open but if controller detects faulty actuator, it is still in limp (does it revs over 3000?) and flaps won't move at all.

 

[Mark D]

Mersum1es
P2015 looks to be a Intake Manifold runner position sensor. I have seen the post about putting the Resistor on the connector to fool the ECU but hadn't determined that this was the root cause. I may not be aware that the car is in Limp mode; I've never had that happen and haven't experienced it. And - it runs pretty fast down the road. I'll go and see if the engine will exceed 3000 RPM's and let you know.
Mark

 

[Mark D]

Ok - I checked to see if the engine will exceed 3000 RPM's and initially it did. But after a couple minutes, the p2015 code came up and the CEL came on and the engine would no longer go over 3,000. So - it looks like that is limp mode. I would have thought it would be much less RPM's than 3,000 to be in limp. I can try the resistor and see what happens. Since p2015 was never there to start with, all the indicators seemed to point to the turbo actuator. Any new thoughts?

 

[mersum1es]

Steve is right above. I neither have heard turbo actuator been blowing fuses, and M55 motor is very common fault. Because you are using some universal code reader, there faults can hide other faults easily. Like said star would pinpoint faulty component because it can actuate each separately plus is giving more reliable codes. I am not saying it's 100% swirl motor but usually these symptoms point there.

 

[Mark D]

I pulled the connector off from the bottom of the engine - pain in the butt. It has 3 pins on the connector. Which pins do I put the resistor on? Looks like a brown, white, red wire. I assume there's no better way to get to it unless you pull the intake off??

 

[Mark D]

Alright - not having heard from anyone, I pulled the connector off from the bottom of the engine - pain in the butt. It has 3 pins on the connector. I put the resistor on the RED and WHITE looking wires. Things appeared to be better for a short time. The car ran great for a couple minutes up the road but then blew fuse F44 again. So the Swirl motor is disconnected (except resistor). This makes it look like that the turbo actuator is blowing the fuse now that the turbo is having to doing work. It's possible that my resistor is on the wrong wires but I can't find any reference to which wires it should be for a 3-pin connector. Actuator DOES move until the fuse blows.
What am I missing?

 

[Mark D]

Ok - so I realize most of you guys in the UK are asleep - so I'm going to review the past fre post from my afternoon.

Bottom line - I removed to connector from the Swirl motor and put a 4.7k ohm resistor on the red and white (maybe gray) wire. I don't know if that's correct cause I couldn't find the data for a 3 pin connector.
I noticed the Turbo seemed to really be working when I revved up the engine. Took it down the road and she ran great. Then it blew F44 within 5 minutes - the one that was blown when all this started. Of course I get several codes that I reset when I got home. Back home, I put another fuse in it and it did NOT blow. I ran it a while in park, exercising the turbo and it seemed to work fine.

So what's the new prognosis? With the swirl motor disconnected she blew F44, but 30 minutes later it doesn't. I don't have a circuit diagram to see what all F44 supplies power to so I can't tell. But for sure, when the resistor was in place, the car ran as it should for a bit - but then blew a 15 and 20A fuse without even being connected. I suppose it's possible that a wire somewhere is rubbing against something metal but everything seems in place.

Any NEW thoughts?

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

Ok so I have only just caught up with this thread.

Go back to the beginning and rescan the car. What codes are we getting? My advice was based on a V6 diesel as I have never seen an inline 6 engine past 2005. Oddball.