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Oil Catch Can on OM642 engine ?

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by Wighty, Oct 21, 2016.

  1. Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Hi Folks ,
    I've been thinking again of fitting an oil catch can to the pcv tube before it goes into the turbo intake on my E320cdi om642 engine .
    A few months ago I changed the turbo inlet seal and the orange pcv seal , I used liquid soap and it has remained cleaner that I have ever seen it , but there is still some slight oil contamination below it . I wonder if by fitting a catch can , it will stop ALL oil going into the turbo and therefore leaking down on to the electrics below the turbo .
    Has anyone done this or got any views either way .
     
  2. M80

    M80 Senior Member

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    I read of the addition when I replaced my inlet shut off motor, didn't try it though.
    My choice was to apply a bead of silicon sealant around the orange seal at each service, fter first cleaning with white spirit.
    That worked out ok for 35k miles until I sold it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2016
  3. EXMERCTECH

    EXMERCTECH Senior Member

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    I was only thinking the same thing the other day.
    But where would you put the catch can.
     
  4. OP
    Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Having read some of the jeep forums because the om642 was fitted in them , which I am sure you know looking at your username ;) . They seem to fit them either front left with longer hoses being used or back left .
    I was half hoping someone on this site had done it and could provide pics, advice , and where they sourced or made the kit . Nothing like the work all being done for you .
     
  5. OP
    Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    I have just bought a 56 quid oil catch can with internal baffles on eBay , so I'm now committed , should manage it over the next couple of weeks
     
  6. Larkone

    Larkone Senior Member

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    Old thread but how did this go and what can did you use.
     
  7. M80

    M80 Senior Member

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    On the 09 V6 Viano I noticed it has an improved design orange seal to the turbo.
    On this it isn't the twin air filter design but the single element box.
    The seal is chunkier and the corrugations seem a little harder and possibly deeper. Anyway there was no evidence of oil passing it.
    For a late 2005 V6 the air inlet manifold to the turbo would require updating to take the better seal, I don't know which manifold is on the later slighty later V6's.
     
  8. oigle

    oigle Senior Member

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    If your motor has swirl flaps, I'd be a bit reluctant to remove the lubricant from the system. I'm sure it helps to lubricate the flap spindles, particularly if the egr muck is kept out. If you remove the flaps, then I see no problems removing the oil from the system.

    Ian.
     
  9. Larkone

    Larkone Senior Member

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    Good point, especially as I have had the EGR deleted.
     
  10. Botus

    Botus Senior Member

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    having just got stuck in and played a bit. I don't think oil or filth dripping off the turbo inlet has anything to do with swirl flaps failing. Its either stress and strain from EGR soot and engine breather oil mist blocking the butterfly's or plain and simple Merc designed to fail.

    On my fathers 2006 car 102k miles the electrical plug was 100% bone dry and as Television says oil doesn't make electrical components fail.... as my 53 k mile petrol V8 just broke its "tumble flaps" designed to fail seems most likely cause.....

    on a Chrysler/Jeep forum they all say disconnect whilst swirl flaps still work!!! then fit the 19p resistor and you need NEVER worry again...
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2017
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  11. Steve@Avantgarde

    Steve@Avantgarde Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Thing is, it isn't oil, its EGR carbon mixed with condensation that forms an oily substance. Although the turbo has a main oil feed, the channels aren't near the vane so it can't suffer any blow. Thats why it blows the inlet port shut off motor, because the fluid is water based....
     
  12. monkeh

    monkeh Active Member

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    Those who are going down the oil catch can route, It may be wise to pull apart the 'Sperator' Puck thing, (The black hockey puck thing) That comes from the top of the engine. You may find that the rubber diaphragm has torn or perished. That helps hold a lot of oil vapour back.
    Its purpose is simple, when the engine is idling, It breathes normally. When engine is under boost condition and the turbo is sucking, The sucking closes off the breather system, unless the pressure in the crankcase gets too great, then it will 'chuff' the fumes through. I considered a catch can, but when going through the system, Realised the rubber diaphragm was stuffed, replaced the unit and oil appearing in the breather pipe was reduced significantly.
    'I know, Lets use rubber in the oil breather system'
     
  13. OP
    Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    image.jpeg Finally got round to trying out the Catch Can . It's a rough job at the moment and I decided to try it because my orange turbo inlet seal was leaking badly into a half salmon tin which I leave sitting below the seal to keep an eye on it .
    As I said I've just thrown it in at the moment , I'll probably try it for a month and see what it collects , if it's doing its job still and at the end of that I will get some proper fluorosilicone hoses (which I believe are more oil resistant ? ) if anyone knows a supplier of good flexible hose that can withstand some oil and heat , let me know please .
    The catch can has 3/4 inch outlets and the hose is all 3/4 internal diameter so it shouldn't increase any crankcase pressure by its use .
     
  14. oigle

    oigle Senior Member

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    You will get lots of fumes emanating from your catch can which will give you pause to rethink the issue. Stinks and quite visible too. Something of a pollution issue which will not get through a mot.
     
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  15. OP
    Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Cheers , I will keep an eye out (or a nose out ) for the fumes . Although I didn't get any when my turbo seal leaks oil .
    The catch can is a bit of an experiment at the moment , it it collects loads with no other issues I will keep it , if it doesn't I'll take it out . I must admit I may take it out for the MoT ( 10 Minuite removal job ) .
     
  16. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    If you get a catch can like this:
    [​IMG]

    You can trap some of the oil but not allow it out to atmosphere. Keep an eye on the level and empty when 1/4 full.

    Internally you need to have the inlet extend to the bottom of the tank and have a mesh to trap anything that gets blown about (coarse steel wool works reasonably well)
     
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  17. OP
    Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    It's the same as that , just bigger ports and some form of internal "gubbins" to trap the oil/water mix . There is no external vent to atmosphere .
     
  18. alexanderfoti

    alexanderfoti Moderator

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    Don't overlook this. I changed this on my 65 and the old one had completely destroyed the internal diaphragm and was dumping loads of oily vapour into the inlet.

    My car was asking for 1 L every 1400 miles. Since changing, it hasn't needed a top up in 2500 miles.
     
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  19. OP
    Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Appreciate it , I will check it at some point (or order up a new one anyway )
     
  20. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    I use my tank in my Smart. Even when they're running normally they dump quite a bit of oil into the inlet.
    If the one way valve to the throttle body fails it just pushes oil out the dipstick and every other orifice it can find.
    Oil leaks are the obvious way to spot a failed breather one way valve on them...
     
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