Removing stuck brake discs - tip (W211)

Troon

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I've just replaced the front discs on my S211 with Pagid ones from ECP (great price & service btw, thanks!).

One of the discs came off with no problem, but the other was firmly stuck to the hub. Most of the internet seemed to be advocating the use of successively larger hammers to remove it, but I didn't like that idea given that the impact would be being absorbed by my bearings. Then I found this:

[youtube]mtsTJCRljAs[/youtube]

Genius idea. I dug out a couple of suitable-sized coachbolts and set to work. I wound in a steady static load on the side of the disc - not too much, as this isn't a load that the caliper bracket is meant to be taking - and a sharp tap with a hammer popped the disc off. The aftermath:

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Cleaned up the hub face, new disc fitted, and it all went back together easily.

attachment.php


Tools used: 17mm socket to remove wheel bolts, 18mm socket and extension bar to remove caliper bolts, T30 Torx to remove disc retaining screw, E10 Torx to remove pad wear sensor connector mount (optional), 11mm spanner for bleed nipple. Hammer for disc removal, largish flatblade screwdriver to force the piston back a few mm (stick it in the recess between the pad and piston and twist gently). You should work out a way of supporting the caliper without straining the brake line - I used a railway sleeper offcut. Obviously, if you're doing this job, support the car properly and safely, and torque all bolts to the recommended values.
 

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television

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Very good and noted, I am pleased that you took better care of your calliper amd hose than the one in the link :D
 

umblecumbuz

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- I used a railway sleeper offcut. Obviously, if you're doing this job, support the car properly and safely, and torque all bolts to the recommended values.

Dang! I knew there was a reason why all those trains were derailing!

Seriously - a very good and sound idea. About to do mine, so I will use this method if needed.

Baz
 

Silver_Star

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Nice tip, thanks for that :D

It looks like it would be wearing some safety specs though when using this removal procedure.

I usually find it is only ever the first disc change in my ownership of a car that is a problem. Subsequent ones are no issue at all. Usually it is the disc retaining screw that causes most issue for me.
 
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T

Troon

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It looks like it would be wearing some safety specs though when using this removal procedure.

Not a bad plan. I also put three of the wheel bolts in loosely in case the disc popped off in a hurry.

The other advantage of this versus the hammer method is that the force and the reaction are both on the vehicle, so it's not putting any force on the axle stands and jack.
 

Dosco

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This excellent post should be in the DIY section can one of the Mods oblige ?
 

television

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Consider it obliged :)

Please leave a foot note in that the calliper should never be left hanging on the flexible hoses as in the link
 

Cole@MBS

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Cable tie to the spring does the job nice!!!!
 

television

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Cable tie to the spring does the job nice!!!!

Thanks Cole,,every time the one in the link hit the disc you can see the calliper jumping. Troon who put up the link did it correctly
 

Xtractorfan

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Good idea, but can't see any reason for the second nut fitted to the business end of the bolt..
 

television

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Good idea, but can't see any reason for the second nut fitted to the business end of the bolt..

That is to stop damaging the thread on the end of the bolt
 

PhiliusM

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That method is still pushing against the bearing. I used to do mine with a large puller. I put a big bit of iron accross the center of the hub for it to push on. Wind the thing up and then stand well back and give it a little teeny tap with a hammer. The disk jumps off the hub with a real bang. Great fun.
 

PhiliusM

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Hammer, yes, but little more than a toffee hammer and really just one little tap. Very satisfying for some reason.
 


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