Sealant

Capra

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Weighing in late here. Before I retired, I was living alone in the Middle East and had hours and hours of time to read up, watch YouTube etc on detailing & care care - most of it is smoke and mirrors. If you buy products from reputable manufacturers and follow the instructions, you will get good and perfectly acceptable results.

OR........you could get silly and buy products like this :

https://www.swissvax.co.uk/merchant...12ef4c7dbc&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SP1015500
How many detailers use this?
 

C350Carl

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How many detailers use this?

Quite a few used to and probably still do.

Before I started detailing I had my car detailed and finished with Crystal Rock. It’s nothing to write home about. It lasted around 6months on a daily driver. I certainly wouldn’t pay for a tub of it unless I was a detailer and there was a demand for it. Also you have to pay to be swissvax accredited and last I checked a couple of years ago it was £2k just for that! You don’t have to be accredited to buy it or use it. To advertise you use it you’re supposed to be.

But it pales into significance compared to this!!!

https://dodojuice.net/products/lou-...uba-car-wax-the-worlds-most-expensive-car-wax

There have been other stupid priced waxes like

Mitchell and King Gold Rush at £65k

Brough & Howarth Definitive Marble Wax at £24k

Zymol Solaris at £42k

You won’t find a car out in the wild with any of the above on though. Even on detailing world no one has seen a car with any of these stupid priced waxes and most of the professionals think they are just a marketing ploy to gain attention. There is probably some sheikh somewhere, to who £65k is pocket change, that owns the wax.

As has been mentioned above, if you buy any decent product and prepared the car properly you will not see any difference.

The only difference you will ever notice is the feel of the paint work and how long before the beading stops. But looks alone, never.

There was a blind test organised by detailing world in conjunction with Vauxhall’s a few years ago. They had a number (think it was 5) of identical black Vauxhall’s Corsa’s and they were all prepared the same way. Then they applied a different wax/sealant to each car. Throughout the course of a day they asked people who came in which car they thought looked best and which they think had the most expensive coating on.

Most people that took part said they couldn’t see a difference and those that did make a choice got it wrong.

If you want something truly bespoke Mitchell and King will make you your own wax starting from circa £250.

I had a tub of swissvax shield which I paid £130 for in 2011. It was a nice wax, went on and buffed off ridiculously easy. But I wouldn’t ever pay that much again. I sold the half tub I had remaining when I left the UK for £40.
 

keefysher

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Quite a few used to and probably still do.

Before I started detailing I had my car detailed and finished with Crystal Rock. It’s nothing to write home about. It lasted around 6months on a daily driver. I certainly wouldn’t pay for a tub of it unless I was a detailer and there was a demand for it. Also you have to pay to be swissvax accredited and last I checked a couple of years ago it was £2k just for that! You don’t have to be accredited to buy it or use it. To advertise you use it you’re supposed to be.

But it pales into significance compared to this!!!

https://dodojuice.net/products/lou-...uba-car-wax-the-worlds-most-expensive-car-wax

There have been other stupid priced waxes like

Mitchell and King Gold Rush at £65k

Brough & Howarth Definitive Marble Wax at £24k

Zymol Solaris at £42k

You won’t find a car out in the wild with any of the above on though. Even on detailing world no one has seen a car with any of these stupid priced waxes and most of the professionals think they are just a marketing ploy to gain attention. There is probably some sheikh somewhere, to who £65k is pocket change, that owns the wax.

As has been mentioned above, if you buy any decent product and prepared the car properly you will not see any difference.

The only difference you will ever notice is the feel of the paint work and how long before the beading stops. But looks alone, never.

There was a blind test organised by detailing world in conjunction with Vauxhall’s a few years ago. They had a number (think it was 5) of identical black Vauxhall’s Corsa’s and they were all prepared the same way. Then they applied a different wax/sealant to each car. Throughout the course of a day they asked people who came in which car they thought looked best and which they think had the most expensive coating on.

Most people that took part said they couldn’t see a difference and those that did make a choice got it wrong.

If you want something truly bespoke Mitchell and King will make you your own wax starting from circa £250.

I had a tub of swissvax shield which I paid £130 for in 2011. It was a nice wax, went on and buffed off ridiculously easy. But I wouldn’t ever pay that much again. I sold the half tub I had remaining when I left the UK for £40.

Sounds a bit like Gregory & Gregory at a food festival :alien::alien:

 

C350Carl

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That is known as a "quick detailer" basically its a wax and lubricant in one. It can be used as a final product. If you want something like that though, use (IMO) Gtechnic C2V3 as its the best about.

To be objective as I’ve used both C2V3 and Sonax extensively.

You will struggle to ever notice a difference in looks from either when applied properly to a clean car. The only difference is feel.

C2V3 makes the car paint feel incredibly smooth. It doesn’t get anywhere near the claimed 4-8mths on a daily driver. In my experience it lasts around 2-3. But feel of the car is extremely slick and makes you want to say, in your best Kenneth Williams voice, “ooooh matron”

Sonax BSD makes your fingers grip the car. Easiest way to explain is it’s like a newly cleaned piece of glass. It lasts a little longer at 3-4mths.

But where the two difference is in hydrophobic properties. The Sonax wins that hands down every time.
 

Flyinspanner

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£65k for a tin of wax o_O seriously?

....would it still shine up ok with an old pair of ‘time expired’ underpants

:):):):):)
 

Capra

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Quite a few used to and probably still do.

Before I started detailing I had my car detailed and finished with Crystal Rock. It’s nothing to write home about. It lasted around 6months on a daily driver. I certainly wouldn’t pay for a tub of it unless I was a detailer and there was a demand for it. Also you have to pay to be swissvax accredited and last I checked a couple of years ago it was £2k just for that! You don’t have to be accredited to buy it or use it. To advertise you use it you’re supposed to be.

But it pales into significance compared to this!!!

https://dodojuice.net/products/lou-...uba-car-wax-the-worlds-most-expensive-car-wax

There have been other stupid priced waxes like

Mitchell and King Gold Rush at £65k

Brough & Howarth Definitive Marble Wax at £24k

Zymol Solaris at £42k

You won’t find a car out in the wild with any of the above on though. Even on detailing world no one has seen a car with any of these stupid priced waxes and most of the professionals think they are just a marketing ploy to gain attention. There is probably some sheikh somewhere, to who £65k is pocket change, that owns the wax.

As has been mentioned above, if you buy any decent product and prepared the car properly you will not see any difference.

The only difference you will ever notice is the feel of the paint work and how long before the beading stops. But looks alone, never.

There was a blind test organised by detailing world in conjunction with Vauxhall’s a few years ago. They had a number (think it was 5) of identical black Vauxhall’s Corsa’s and they were all prepared the same way. Then they applied a different wax/sealant to each car. Throughout the course of a day they asked people who came in which car they thought looked best and which they think had the most expensive coating on.

Most people that took part said they couldn’t see a difference and those that did make a choice got it wrong.

If you want something truly bespoke Mitchell and King will make you your own wax starting from circa £250.

I had a tub of swissvax shield which I paid £130 for in 2011. It was a nice wax, went on and buffed off ridiculously easy. But I wouldn’t ever pay that much again. I sold the half tub I had remaining when I left the UK for £40.
Those prices are mental, I suppose it's to bring attention to something bigger, like the invaling of a new super car maybe?
It's also the quality of the paintwork before, no point applying top not wax if the prep is not there.
I'm happy with my basic wax and sonax bad for now.
 

C350Carl

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£65k for a tin of wax o_O seriously?

....would it still shine up ok with an old pair of ‘time expired’ underpants

:):):):):)

Did you miss the one at £450k?!

I think that comes with a pair of underpants included. :p
 

Capra

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Did you miss the one at £450k?!

I think that comes with a pair of underpants included. :p
Lol I did see this one, but it wasn't for sale...this is so the owner of the Chiron being treated can say the pot costs £450. :D
 

rorywquin

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But where the two difference is in hydrophobic properties. The Sonax wins that hands down every time.

Does the car therefore stay cleaner / and is easier to clean?

I've been using Carlak 68 & Longlife topped off with Hydro2 and have been impressed how easy it is to get the dirt, brake dust & insect bodies off with just a pressure hose...however as stated earlier, I've ended up with water marks because I have not been drying the car. In future, I'll hit it with a Quick Detailer when I get home after using the coin operated pressure washer.

Still have some Carlack Detailer and Aquawax Duragloss (which is also a nice product and can be sprayed on as you dry the car) to finish up (my shelves are getting too full of product) but keen to try the Sonax
 

Capra

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Does the car therefore stay cleaner / and is easier to clean?

I've been using Carlak 68 & Longlife topped off with Hydro2 and have been impressed how easy it is to get the dirt, brake dust & insect bodies off with just a pressure hose...however as stated earlier, I've ended up with water marks because I have not been drying the car. In future, I'll hit it with a Quick Detailer when I get home after using the coin operated pressure washer.

Still have some Carlack Detailer and Aquawax Duragloss (which is also a nice product and can be sprayed on as you dry the car) to finish up (my shelves are getting too full of product) but keen to try the Sonax
It does for me. I've found that using BSD does also remove the odd water mark.but yes, easier to clean with a good wax/sealant.
 

Msb

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Me again, do you actually need to use a sealant after you have applied the wax layer??
While sealant can be put down over wax it’s generally regarded as wrong as the main purpose of a sealant is durability which will be massively compromised putting it over wax, the sealant will typically fail in the same time as the wax it’s sitting on used this way. To get the best from your sealant always apply to bare paint.
 

C350Carl

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Does the car therefore stay cleaner / and is easier to clean?

I've been using Carlak 68 & Longlife topped off with Hydro2 and have been impressed how easy it is to get the dirt, brake dust & insect bodies off with just a pressure hose...however as stated earlier, I've ended up with water marks because I have not been drying the car. In future, I'll hit it with a Quick Detailer when I get home after using the coin operated pressure washer.

Still have some Carlack Detailer and Aquawax Duragloss (which is also a nice product and can be sprayed on as you dry the car) to finish up (my shelves are getting too full of product) but keen to try the Sonax

Not necessarily stay cleaner as it really depends on where you live, what the roads are like, any industrial areas nearby etc. But it will certainly be easier to clean with either product.

Quick detailers are designed for removing the lightest of dust and aid drying after a wash. They won’t replace a proper wash and they haven’t yet made one that means you don’t need to wash the car.

Carlack is a very good and much underrated product in my experience. They make a good screen sealant too.
 

Capra

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While sealant can be put down over wax it’s generally regarded as wrong as the main purpose of a sealant is durability which will be massively compromised putting it over wax, the sealant will typically fail in the same time as the wax it’s sitting on used this way. To get the best from your sealant always apply to bare paint.
Ok, I just thought that BSD would be ok on top of wax.
 

Msb

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Ok, I just thought that BSD would be ok on top of wax.
Bsd will be fine it’s a quick detailer with sealant properties it’s not a true stand alone sealant product as it offers no uv protection etc
 

Capra

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Bsd will be fine it’s a quick detailer with sealant properties it’s not a true stand alone sealant product as it offers no uv protection etc
Thanks, wasn't aware about the lack of UV protection.
 

rorywquin

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While sealant can be put down over wax it’s generally regarded as wrong as the main purpose of a sealant is durability which will be massively compromised putting it over wax, the sealant will typically fail in the same time as the wax it’s sitting on used this way. To get the best from your sealant always apply to bare paint.

Yes - wax first defeats the purpose of the sealant!
 

C350Carl

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There is nothing wrong with adding sealant over a wax or vice versa, assuming the two will play nicely together.

You just have to remember that whatever is on the top will only last as long as what’s underneath.

Eg you may have a sealant that lasts 8mths. But if you put wax underneath that lasts 4mths then you will probably find at around 5mths you have no protection left.

There was a thought process a while back that waxes worked better on dark colours and sealants better on light colours. But that’s not the case, especially with modern sealants and ceramic crystal coatings.
 

Capra

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There is nothing wrong with adding sealant over a wax or vice versa, assuming the two will play nicely together.

You just have to remember that whatever is on the top will only last as long as what’s underneath.

Eg you may have a sealant that lasts 8mths. But if you put wax underneath that lasts 4mths then you will probably find at around 5mths you have no protection left.

There was a thought process a while back that waxes worked better on dark colours and sealants better on light colours. But that’s not the case, especially with modern sealants and ceramic crystal coatings.
This is why BSD was recommended to me from a vague memory.
 

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