Should I change just the leaking side of the diff axle or both?

Submariner1

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I have got this leaking diff seal ...

IMG_4704.JPG

Could use some advice as I have never had a leaking Merc Diff before.

If it had just started leaking i.e. Had Worn out; then I would probably get both sides replaced at the same time. Logic being if one has gone ... law of probability is the other might go quite soon.

However I strongly suspect ( but cant prove ) it was damaged when the main dealer replaced the Flange Hub, that is on the other end of the axle.

Hence the parts serviceability-longevity factor imo is not a factor in the decision.

The thing is how long do the diff driveshaft seals normally last on a CL500 / S Class?

If I am right, one has to undo every strut going to the hub flange/bearing/brake carrier structure, also remove the brake caliper, on the relevant side; to get the driveshaft out?
If so, Then there is no cost effective time saver doing seals on both sides?

Guess what I am saying is:-
- if it takes 2 hours to do one, will it take 2 hours to do the other? , and there is no "mutual" work involved ... i.e are they both independent. So no saving in doing the other right now.
And if they generally last 70,000 plus miles, then as I think this was accidental, collateral damage ... no point to change the other one right now as its bone dry.

Am I right?
Asking as I definitely wont be doing this myself ;) , just want to know what is sensible to ask my Indy to do. Prefer to save cash if possible on this as its not a "beneficial" part.
By that I mean if I had to replace an ABC pump, it has some long term value i.e. Its gonna go one day ... so doing it now gives the car a new "shelf life" or lease of life.
Whereas replacing something like a diff seal, that imo should last 100,000 miles anyway; gives me/the car no tangible benefit.

Note the car has done a genuine 42,800 miles. And just had the diff oil changed 800 miles ago.

Other ?
When they change a diff seal, do they have to change all the oil ref cleaning the seal face? Or just top up what pours out during the swap process?
Sorry to sound mean, but that diff oil is a fortune. Something like £35 a litre if I remember correctly.
 

Wighty

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I have got this leaking diff seal ...

View attachment 37926

Could use some advice as I have never had a leaking Merc Diff before.

If it had just started leaking i.e. Had Worn out; then I would probably get both sides replaced at the same time. Logic being if one has gone ... law of probability is the other might go quite soon.

However I strongly suspect ( but cant prove ) it was damaged when the main dealer replaced the Flange Hub, that is on the other end of the axle.

Hence the parts serviceability-longevity factor imo is not a factor in the decision.

The thing is how long do the diff driveshaft seals normally last on a CL500 / S Class?

If I am right, one has to undo every strut going to the hub flange/bearing/brake carrier structure, also remove the brake caliper, on the relevant side; to get the driveshaft out?
If so, Then there is no cost effective time saver doing seals on both sides?

Guess what I am saying is:-
- if it takes 2 hours to do one, will it take 2 hours to do the other? , and there is no "mutual" work involved ... i.e are they both independent. So no saving in doing the other right now.
And if they generally last 70,000 plus miles, then as I think this was accidental, collateral damage ... no point to change the other one right now as its bone dry.

Am I right?
Asking as I definitely wont be doing this myself ;) , just want to know what is sensible to ask my Indy to do. Prefer to save cash if possible on this as its not a "beneficial" part.
By that I mean if I had to replace an ABC pump, it has some long term value i.e. Its gonna go one day ... so doing it now gives the car a new "shelf life" or lease of life.
Whereas replacing something like a diff seal, that imo should last 100,000 miles anyway; gives me/the car no tangible benefit.

Note the car has done a genuine 42,800 miles. And just had the diff oil changed 800 miles ago.

Other ?
When they change a diff seal, do they have to change all the oil ref cleaning the seal face? Or just top up what pours out during the swap process?
Sorry to sound mean, but that diff oil is a fortune. Something like £35 a litre if I remember correctly.
Fuchs Titan syntopoid oil (for diffs ) is factory fill on Mercs , I just paid £12.95 L from Opie oils , might be worth ringing them
 

KennyN

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I would just give it a through clean / dry and see how bad it actually is over a period of time.

If it is a big job then specialist tooling will be involved so not a DIY job , main dealer or good indy which will be costly.

Is it not possible that it may be some oil residue from the repair as opposed to a passing seal.

Kenny
 

Ken_R

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then as I think this was accidental, collateral damage ... no point to change the other one right now as its bone dry.

Put it this way. If the owner of a V6/V8 had a head gasket blow on one side, then would they automatically ask for both to be changed?
;)
 
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Submariner1

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I would just give it a through clean / dry and see how bad it actually is over a period of time.

If it is a big job then specialist tooling will be involved so not a DIY job , main dealer or good indy which will be costly.

Is it not possible that it may be some oil residue from the repair as opposed to a passing seal.

Kenny
I would just give it a through clean / dry and see how bad it actually is over a period of time.

If it is a big job then specialist tooling will be involved so not a DIY job , main dealer or good indy which will be costly.

Is it not possible that it may be some oil residue from the repair as opposed to a passing seal.

Kenny

Hi Kenny
It was fine before the job on 2/6/17 380 miles driven since then.
No drips on driveway.
Maindealer checked it today and said the seal was leaking.
Cant afford a main dealer ... and have an an Indy that I am utterly sure will do a great job. Based on previous work done that was excellent / flawless. And oodles of references from people who know more than me.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Put it this way. If the owner of a V6/V8 had a head gasket blow on one side, then would they automatically ask for both to be changed?
;)

Un qualified to say. Never had a MB engine fault on 9 new Mercs.
But would ask is this a known fault? .. faulty batch of headbolts ala 6.3 V8 pre 2010? Is their a recall?
Probably would ask for a compression test on the other side.
Depends on the mileage.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Really interested to know how long they usually last on 2009 era cars
 

star

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Is the leak the same side as hub replacement? I have never seen a diff leak after hub work, the driveshaft sits quite firmly in the diff, so would be difficult to damage seal.
 

LostKiwi

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If you drop the diff out to do both there's an amount of common work.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Is the leak the same side as hub replacement? I have never seen a diff leak after hub work, the driveshaft sits quite firmly in the diff, so would be difficult to damage seal.

Thanks - OK so its just a bad luck coincidence.
I only assumed it was likely, because WIS says one must support the axle horizontally or the seal can be damaged.

Therefore the average lifespan of the seal should then be considered, re is it wise to do both?
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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If you drop the diff out to do both there's an amount of common work.

A good point.
Dropping that diff looks quite complex. Hmmm

I wonder if one can leave all the suspension struts alone and drop the diff, and withdraw both axles. Then change the seals off the car and then replace it.

If that were possible it could be a visble option. Otherwise one saves time not taking off the other carrier, which is balance by the time to remove the diff.

Difficult to assess without knowing how its done. Probably a simple evaluation of how much for one seal at a time .. versus how much to do two.

As Star dont think its collateral damage, then the average life expectancy of the seal is key.
I had presumed these seals lasted well over 100K miles ... maybe not. :-/
 

LostKiwi

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Like I said earlier... never had a leaking diff seal in several MBs.
1st did 80k miles in my ownership from new.
Second did 150k 90 of them my miles.
Third did 221k miles Fourth has 120k and fifth 130k.
I think you've just been unlucky.

If its like my cars diff comes out by unbolting propshaft, unbolt each half shaft. Remove diff mounting bolts and lower diff. Exhaust may need undoing also.
There is no need to touch suspension.
I'm not sure if it's possible to get the the seals just by undoing the half shaft and moving it out of the way. There may not be enough clearance to withdraw the drive flange.
 

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Another theory is that it is the drain plug that maybe passing slightly as it would have been removed to replace the oil when it was done, how they are sealed i dont know (taper / sealant / tighten to a shoulder ??)

The airflow under the car at speed can over-ride gravity.

As suggested earlier , give it a proper clean and monitor it for a month or so, as it can be easily seen just by looking under the car and it is not a major leak.

No point getting all "Man United" over something that maybe a 10 min fix.

Kenny
 

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^ As above , if it was mine I would give it a good clean first and see if you can confirm where it is coming from first before you decide ??
 

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Get rid...this car is so full of problems.
 

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Get rid...this car is so full of problems.

Well that is certainly one alternative to consider. I would get a quote from the independent and see what they recommend. You then have a basis for making a decision on what work to have done. You could also try tightening the drain and filler plugs then cleaning it to see how bad the leak is, as others have said.
 

LostKiwi

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Sub, can you get us a better pic of the driveshaft showing the CV? There are two types it seems and only one will be easy to get the driveshaft out.
 

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The outer suspension has to be removed on Subs car to remove driveshafts, don't try and tighten that plug anymore Peter, you risk cracking the casing, I fitted that last so I no it's correct.......
 

LostKiwi

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The outer suspension has to be removed on Subs car to remove driveshafts, don't try and tighten that plug anymore Peter, you risk cracking the casing, I fitted that last so I no it's correct.......
Looking at the pic I thought it may be the one piece inner CV. Earlier MBs are easier with the multi part inner CV!
 


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