SL55 AMG (2003) Electronics

lovemerc

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Hmmmm, got the fuse current tester, checked all fuses in the engine compartment both sides and, apart from the instrument cluster fuse spiking initially to 0.12A then dropping off to zero after say 10secs, all other readings were zero too.

It's still today leaking around 0.1A per hour until it gets to the 11.75 command shut off point. Any idea what else I can investigate :confused:
 

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Try the ones in the rear box, re the ones in the front box it is the 2 door controllers, one fuse each side that are the worst for leaking
 

lovemerc

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I checked all mini fuses in engine bay both sides. Which ones are for the door controllers please? I don't see them indicated on the fuse chart...

Also, I can't insert the fuse tester into the rear fuses as it's too tight in there. Do you see any problem if I can manage to connect the Maplins fuse tester inline with the consumer battery to check the rear fuses?
 

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I do not have a chart to hand tonight.

Re using as an ammeter yes you can with the doors all closed and key out and everything of including comand off for 1 hour, you will have the boot lamps on or remove the bulb, max current 55ma
 

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Great, thanks I'll rig something up to connect.

Also, would a damp PSE pump cause a drain despite it working?
 

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Great, thanks I'll rig something up to connect.

Also, would a damp PSE pump cause a drain despite it working?

Its CAN controlled and if CAN stay all quiet then it should not, the phone amp are one of the worst for leaking
 

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I don't have any phone set up but would this be anywhere near the wet floor in passenger side that I had?. If so, would wet cause a drain?
 

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Once again all CAN in the sills, if the voltages when all turned off are 11v and 0.025 then all fine, one should leave the meter connected for 10 mins in case something does try and start up like the comand.

An old fault used to be where the comand would try and start every 10 mins.
 

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Ok thanks.

To be sure, the other day I confirmed the CAN was indeed at 11v but one of the bars remained at 0.5v not 0.025 as you suggested. You confirmed the 0.5v would be ok, is this still correct please?
 

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Then the CAN is running very well :D:D

I'm getting confused with the last few posts here.

1) my CAN reading of 11v & 0.5v - One constant 0.5v doesn't match your suggested 0.025v but you confirmed the CAN is working very well?

2) you mentioned the phone 'amp' - Is this an 'amplifier' or 'amperage' (ie current)? If amperage, then this is not relevant if no1 is working well?

3) I do not see any reference to door controllers on the R230 fuse chart for me to check and have looked at it a few times now?

If no1 above is now not ok then I'm right back to square one and a week...
 

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The dormant, that is nothing active on the CAN and nothing running is 11v for CAN L and 0.025 for CAN H, any other voltage and something shorting.

Shorts in door controllers may not show up in the CAN when leaking.
 

lovemerc

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The dormant, that is nothing active on the CAN and nothing running is 11v for CAN L and 0.025 for CAN H, any other voltage and something shorting.

Shorts in door controllers may not show up in the CAN when leaking.

Ok, so it's not running well after all...

Before I now give in, can anyone suggest how I can find out where the short is, in connection with the fact that I'm getting a higher voltage on what appears to be CAN L please? As I've had a wet floor, could a short on the CAN be a possible cause if I haven't cleaned all pins?
 
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That was the same fault that I had for years. On a 230 just start by unplugging each connector in the rear box on the CAN plugs.

If you pull out the odd coloured wire, that will disconnect the whole rear section you can then measure from that plug, note that there is one odd coloured wire coming in from the passenger side connectors and one goes along the drivers side sill to the diagnostic socket.
 

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Rear Box on the CAN plugs, are we talking about the same CAN we have discussed over the past week or is this something completely different?

I don't understand how I can measure things from the odd coloured wire, wherever that is?

If you had exactly the same problem, did you fix it and what was it?
 
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Rear Box on the CAN plugs, are we talking about the same CAN we have discussed over the past week or is this something completely different?

I don't understand how I can measure things from the odd coloured wire, wherever that is?

If you had exactly the same problem, did you fix it and what was it?

Only the 1 CAN B What access do you have to the CAN plugs.
 

lovemerc

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Rear Box on the CAN plugs, are we talking about the same CAN we have discussed over the past week or is this something completely different?

I don't understand how I can measure things from the odd coloured wire, wherever that is?

If you had exactly the same problem, did you fix it and what was it?


Only the 1 CAN B What access do you have to the CAN plugs.

This is in the passenger footwell on the image below - is this what you are referring to?

Would a voltage track between the bars cause a short?

Did you fix your fault that was the same as mine?
 

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television

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Yes the brown and red wires and plugs, one of those plugs has a different colour, or it should, and that plug should be removed and this will isolate the rear box, so do a voltage check on the H and L with the plug out and see if it goes back to normal.


My fault was a wiring one with 1 wire too many
 

lovemerc

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Well, I checked all wires and there isn't an odd coloured wire connected; however, when looking at the image in my last post, you will see an odd coloured wire sticking up above the other connector. This wire isn't & wasn't connect to anything when I lifted the trunking cover. Could it be this you refer to? If it is, it strange it wasn't connected...
 

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Well, I checked all wires and there isn't an odd coloured wire connected; however, when looking at the image in my last post, you will see an odd coloured wire sticking up above the other connector. This wire isn't & wasn't connect to anything when I lifted the trunking cover. Could it be this you refer to? If it is, it strange it wasn't connected...

Nope, not that one, there should be one wire coming from the rear of the car that goes into that connector, all of the other wires go forward,it should be coloured brown/ black, that socket is X30/15 and you can see the wire that goes to X30/16
 

lovemerc

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Thanks Malcolm, I'll have another look tomorrow.
 

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