Spent all yesterday re-Claying it with white Meguires and repolishing

[Submariner1]

despite using this two meter wide tunnel and masking to stop overspray ...


After spraying my calipers with hammerite, the previously glass like paint, had some very slight drag and shhh noise. It had 2 coats of AG Super resin Polish on it before spraying the Hammerite.

I lightly (basically the weight of the clay and lots of Meguires quick detailer) clayed it, literally one wipe left, and then one right delivered perfectly silent, no shhhhhh noise and a glass like clear-coat.

I assume as when I polished it again with Autglyms Super Resin, the wipe on application cloth stayed white that it is all off? , (and it looks and feels super slick smooth).

Was claying the best most and most Sympathetic way to do this?

Due to a reaction I have to redo 2 callipers , hence I wondered, am I correct in that As Hammerite is an oil based paint any minor oversray wont have pitted the clear-coat? like say wet Cellulose overspray can as it stucks to the originsl paint.

I guess I will have to put the Halfords car cover on it just to make sure that doesnt happen again.

 

[Craiglxviii]

What noise did it make again?

 

[Submariner1]

What noise did it make again?

Shhhhh its a secret

Do you reckon I was right ?
Cos if it doesnt damage it , worth not sheeting her up.
A real pain re masking twice ref the reaction time , and washing and putting this car cover on ( you cant putbit on dirty as its nylon rubs in the wind etc. )

 

[Craiglxviii]

Hammerite is ****** awful stuff. Thin streamers of it can float in the air, still liquid, for 20-30 metres or more. In my last job we had some metal racking being painted, enough Hammerite floated off that to land on cars parked at the other end of the car park (and need emergency Brasso-ing off). It doesn't surprise me that it avoided your sheeting-off efforts.

If you managed to get it off the clearcoat PDQ I don't think it'll have had any effect.

 

[Submariner1]

Hammerite is ****** awful stuff. Thin streamers of it can float in the air, still liquid, for 20-30 metres or more. In my last job we had some metal racking being painted, enough Hammerite floated off that to land on cars parked at the other end of the car park (and need emergency Brasso-ing off). It doesn't surprise me that it avoided your sheeting-off efforts.

If you managed to get it off the clearcoat PDQ I don't think it'll have had any effect.

Thanks Craig.
I would agree with you and thanks for that info.
I will definitely sheet it up next time.
Peter

 

[om613]

It's not an 'oil based' paint.
Xylene is the stated thinning agent (posh celly).
Like many things, in the old days, Hammerite was much tougher; it used to dry hard akin to a 2K formulation.

 

[JBell]

As I said before, don't use Hammerite and don't spray near cars.

You should use a Wax over the SRP then put Sonax on top, it will make it much easier to clean and you will have to do less polishing

 

[Submariner1]

As I said before, don't use Hammerite and don't spray near cars.

You should use a Wax over the SRP then put Sonax on top, it will make it much easier to clean and you will have to do less polishing

Polished it with AG SRP, and have some Collinite 476s I will do that before painting again, even though it will be covered with a car cover as well

 

[Submariner1]

It's not an 'oil based' paint.
Xylene is the stated thinning agent (posh celly).
Like many things, in the old days, Hammerite was much tougher; it used to dry hard akin to a 2K formulation.

According to Hammerite technical it was, but now is oil based.
I tried some xylene and it went funny, but now dilutes ok with white spirit.
But there is something else in it as thinned stuff takes days to set off.

I am well down this route now, but I wouldn't use it again.

 

[BernardB]

I don't understand using Hammerite on brake calipers. Why not use a proper caliper paint? Not expensive and not hard to find (eg Halfords).

 

[JBell]

I don't understand using Hammerite on brake calipers. Why not use a proper caliper paint? Not expensive and not hard to find (eg Halfords).

You don't even need that, Japlac is superb and apply with a 1/2" brush, perfect every time

 

[Morethanpolish]

If you use a good wax then there is no need to put anything on top of it.

Its down to definition of 'good wax' - given that a decent jar will last for several years I reckon £40+. About £1 a coat which is not much considering what it does for a car.

A good wax will save you having to reapply too regularly, will give better swirl filling, shine and protection. Plus save money on top up products.