W124 250TD manual - clutch/gearbox gone?

[Simon21]

Over the last two days my W124 has first felt like the synchro was going - crunchy gear-changes (alleviated by double de-clutching), and just now would not go into reverse as all - much grinding. I let it drop down the slope alongside the house to park it, but then could not select 1st (or any other forward gear) to pull it up. So it's stuck it seems.

Strangely the bite of the clutch does not seem to be at all high, though that's academic now ...

Your thoughts please!

 

[dieselman]

Almost certainly clutch drag due to a worn out pressure plate.
It's worth checking the master and slave cylinders are working OK as well before fitting a new clutch.

 

[Simon21]

Thanks Dieselman. I'm guessing I need to look for leaks round the master and slave cylinders? Where is the reservoir for the clutch system?

Changing the clutch may well be beyond my numpty-level skills? Any thoughts of time to do the job and the need for special tools?

 

[MechPhil]

Thanks Dieselman. I'm guessing I need to look for leaks round the master and slave cylinders? Where is the reservoir for the clutch system?

Changing the clutch may well be beyond my numpty-level skills? Any thoughts of time to do the job and the need for special tools?

Not exactly sure about the reservoir, but I think it takes fluid from the brake cylinder reservoir.

Getting the manual box out and back in is not really that much of a fight, but it makes it very difficult if you don't have the means to lift and support the car with the nose at least 500mm off the ground, no special tools though.

Just to get it out of the yard, pump the clutch pedal a few times (it may be just enought to allow some slip for a smoother start), get it into the desired gear (1st or R) and then start. Just be ready to turn it off at the top, sometimes if there is power delivery from the engine, it's hard to get it out of gear again!!

The master cylinder would normally leak into the car, onto the driver's floormat, but still remove the kickpanel just to check.

 

[robparker]

Just had pretty much the same thjing happen with my girlfriends 190d 2.5 manual, which is the same engine/box, had to put a new clutch in it. Unusual for a Merc.

 

[dieselman]

To move the car start it in gear either with the clutch depressed or not if you have your wits about you.

 

[wireman]

The reservoir is a tapping off the brake's.

You might need a long socket extension to get at the upper bell housing bolts, they are a shade awkward to reach.

Mind the engine does not bash into the bulkhead as you lower the gearbox and damage the panel/sound proofing or bend anything.

I think you will have a dual mass flywheel in there, make sure it is sound before you put it back together or you will have to do it all again. Clutch kit ~£200. flywheel ~£400, clutch slave & master ~£100, Haynes book of helpful instructions £15.

The Haynes book shows how to check the clutch for wear, it is worth having.

Pay yourself £25 an hour and you can get yourself a 1/2 decent bottle of brandy, I would recommend the Hine 1975 single barrel grande champagne ~£130, mmmm...

 

[MechPhil]

Better work slowly then, else you'll have to go for Tesco's Finest Brandy... Vile!

 

[Simon21]

Very late, but it was the slave cylinder. Not a pretty job in the end, and I had to seek paid help as it was causing too much domestic friction. In order to get the slave back on I had to remove the pipe from the master, and so by then it made sense to replace the master too.

All in it cost about £100 - just over £40 for the two cylinders from GSF and £60 for the labour to replace the master, which is horrible to get at.

 

[television]

Thanks for posting back on that one