W163 ML270 2002 722.6 won't engage any gears!

Arudge

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At the next opportunity, as the TC isn t bolted up yet it should spin freely, if it doesn't something is trapped. Slacken off the bell housing bolts and see what happens. If you get movement with the bell housing bolts loose then the TC may not be located in the pump properly.
 
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Blueyes1971

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You were able to turn the crank ok to remove the TC bolts when you removed it?
Yes easily ....of course the TC wasn't engaging the pump then ....but didn't expect it to be this tough.
I'm still considering that it's the now engaging pump that is making it not turn with the leverage I'm applying so gonna get my old Gordon 3/4 drive gear on it tomorrow and a long bar see if that gets it going.
May just be its in a point in the compression and the engaged pump making it feel like it won't turn.
 

Arudge

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Yes easily ....of course the TC wasn't engaging the pump then ....but didn't expect it to be this tough.
I'm still considering that it's the now engaging pump that is making it not turn with the leverage I'm applying so gonna get my old Gordon 3/4 drive gear on it tomorrow and a long bar see if that gets it going.
May just be its in a point in the compression and the engaged pump making it feel like it won't turn.
There should be no resistance whatsoever from the pump, the TC should spin on the pump like there's nothing there.

Don't get swinging on anything until you've established the TC can rotate with ease as it is.

If the TC does rotate then sure, get the big wrench out, the problem is compression in the engine.
 

Uncle Benz

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Iirc there are three slight depressions in the flex plate that the three raised bosses on the torque converter sit in to. If the bosses are sitting out of those depressions it will be tight. I am however drawn back to my earlier post where the tc looked to not be in far enough to the bell housing. I think I'd be considering that possibility now, rather than going through the whole saga again.
 
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Blueyes1971

Blueyes1971

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Iirc there are three slight depressions in the flex plate that the three raised bosses on the torque converter sit in to. If the bosses are sitting out of those depressions it will be tight. I am however drawn back to my earlier post where the tc looked to not be in far enough to the bell housing. I think I'd be considering that possibility now, rather than going through the whole saga again.
UB...I appreciate your insight and will of course investigate further, but I know the TC was home all the way in...right get to the point the trans slipped on like butter.
I will report what I find tomorrow .
Cheers all
 

Uncle Benz

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UB...I appreciate your insight and will of course investigate further, but I know the TC was home all the way in...right get to the point the trans slipped on like butter.
I will report what I find tomorrow .
Cheers all
I hear you. I know the angle of your picture probably makes it look different, but just have a look here to compare.

image.jpg
 

Uncle Benz

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The bar is held across the face of the bell housing, and the bolt holes on the tc are about an inch under.
 
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Blueyes1971

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Ok I've had it off twice now and can confirm I had the TC home first time... my TC bolts install proud of the bell housing face.. because the flywheel bolt points are recessed from the block face and they ar indented in the wheel so I guess ideally they need closely lined up with each other at trans install... leaving fine adjustments to line up correct before and bell housing bolts are tightened...
Hard to show in photos but here they are
 

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Blueyes1971

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Ok trans back in with TC fixing lugs lined up to recess flywheel locations.. TC turned easily when fine tuning alignment... just installing the starter motor and finally can move onto the transfer box... finally
 

Arudge

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Ok trans back in with TC fixing lugs lined up to recess flywheel locations.. TC turned easily when fine tuning alignment... just installing the starter motor and finally can move onto the transfer box... finally
Good news.
 

Uncle Benz

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Well done! Sorry to have made you drag it off again, but didn't want you to end up back where you started with a broken pump gear
 
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Blueyes1971

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Do I have to index the selector?
 

Uncle Benz

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If you are talking about the rod from the lever to the gearbox, as long as you haven't disturbed the adjustment part just pop the rod back on the box arm.
 
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Blueyes1971

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Transfer box in... trans support bracket in loctite on all relevant fixings... prop shaft and drive shaft next
 

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Blueyes1971

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Ok all done.. just awaiting fluid now... hopefully tomorrow morning rather than afternoon.. fingers crossed
 

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Blueyes1971

Blueyes1971

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While I wait for trans fluid to arrive tomorrow I removed the coolant rad and reassembled the rad stack with good coolant rad.. will install in the morning along with a replacement trans cooler too... when I removed the trans cooler, it was filled with coolant... I thought these ran the trans fluid through them .. I know the early w163 was different but still thought it cycled fluid... I guess it cycles coolant through a water gallery on the later w163
 

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oigle

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While I wait for trans fluid to arrive tomorrow I removed the coolant rad and reassembled the rad stack with good coolant rad.. will install in the morning along with a replacement trans cooler too... when I removed the trans cooler, it was filled with coolant... I thought these ran the trans fluid through them .. I know the early w163 was different but still thought it cycled fluid... I guess it cycles coolant through a water gallery on the later w163

Yes - and a very unsatisfactory cooler in hot climes. I fitted another extra cooler rad in front of the main rad and cycled the auto fluid through that before returning it to the main system. Works very well - no more overheating when towing the van.
Ian.
 
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Blueyes1971

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So Ian mine is correct?
It cycles coolant around the trans case by ways of a gallery instead of cycling the trans fluid through the cooler?
Thanks
 
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Blueyes1971

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Arrived and filling as we speak.
Judgement day
 

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