[W202] Mechanical woes. Car in need of rehab.

[German Whip]

Hi guys. I am having a complete nightmare right here and I've not a clue what to do. So. Firstly I have changed my brake pads recently... Twice. The first time I did it they seemed to rub a hell of a lot and when I had my mot I found that a ball joint needed replacing. As I got down to that work I noticed that my brake pads were wrecked, uneven wear and one was even hanging from its backing plate. I've swapped the set out for new ones and now when I turn the wheels they rub really badly and even squeal like a train does. Further to this, I have noticed that I can also hear a whirring sound that speeds up and slows down with the car that I am unsure of the cause. I know this is rather vague but some light shedding would be well appreciated!

 

[Mr Filipov]

Corrosion on the wheel hubs can cause the discs to not sit true. If that is the case you will be experiencing exactly what is happening.

 

[German Whip]

I see, possible but I have never removed the Discs, only ever the whole hub itself

 

[yorkshire1]

with your brake pads and the way you tell it I would guess the piston/s are seized in the caliper/s, are the rubber boots around the pistons damaged aswell get someone to press the brake pedal with pads removed and watch the pistons move or not work them in and out with a lever /spray with WD40 copper grease etc

Whirring noise could be wheel bearing hard to pinpoint youd have to jack up each corner and check for play/roughness on spinning

 

[charlysays]

You'll get there mate. These cars are getting old and even one which looks good needs fettling before going into daily service.
None of the issues you mentioned are a big issue and fairly standard repairs, but any of these jobs can have complications and sometimes several will have complications.

With the calipers, be careful of forcing the pistons back in and out as forcing them in can shove dirty brake fluid up into the ABS pump. When forcing them in it's often best to open the bleed nipple. Also best to put a bit of plate or something between the piston and disc to stop it coming out too far.
The only long term cure for sticky calipers is replacement really.

You should be able to find a good secondhand set as all 3 of my old W202s have functional original calipers. Reconditioned ones aren't too expensive.

A good tip the bottom ball joint (these often wear out long before 100k miles) is to heat it up where the tapers go in if you have trouble getting them out.

I had one which would not budge, but 10 mins with a paint stripper gun and it just fell out.