W203 - C220 CDI - Fuel Pump & Pipe Leaks Help

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
Big problems this morning, went out to the car bright and early, started the car and it fired up no problem however after five seconds it cut out. Tried a few more times and could tell it just wasn’t going to fire and to save the battery stopped.

This is the first it has ever failed to start (apart from seat controller drain of course)

Anyway before deciding what to do pulled out the mux and DAS and no fault codes showing however after checking actual values no pressure at the injection rail.

As I’m at the G/Friends I was in two minds what to do, pull it apart or phone the AA. Decided to have a look and see if there is anything obvious. Easy answer to that, diesel down the front of the engine, right time for the AA.

Didn't take long for them to turn up and after explaining what I’d found he set about cleaning the area around the pump and pipes and found the pipe attachment at the outgoing side of the fuel pump was leaking. No sign of damage to the o-ring or the connector but it was still passing. Anyway in the way of a temporary fix he wrapped the plastic connector in a clear PTFE type tape to seal it and after putting back together it fired up and a few cranks, obviously air taking it's time to release.

I thought this was the end of it, afraid not, a steady drip had appeared under the car and looking around the pipe entering the high pressure pump it seemed to be coming from this area. A torch highlighted exactly where it was coming from, the left hand side of the high pressure pump to the rear of where the plastic pipe connects to it.

Bottom line not going anywhere, it's getting recovered tomorrow and I’m in the process of going through part numbers etc on the EPC.

My question to those that know about these high pressure pumps, there is a repair kit available for the area where the leak is coming from. What is included in these kits?

I'm planning to replace the fuel pipes as they seem very brittle.

First Leak: - At item 137 at the upper Fuel Pump
Second Leak: - At item 164 at the Hig Pressure Pump

FuelPumpNo3.jpg


So hopefully the repair kit and the new pipes will solve the problem or I’m looking at a new high pressure pump.

Item 25 is the repair kit:-

FuelPumpNo1.jpg
 

Alex Crow

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
10,677
Reaction score
47
Location
Super Suffolk
Your Mercedes
W169, W124, w202, W203, KTM 250 EXC, VW T25 camper and a Polo in a pear tree
i think you will find that item 25 is an exchange pump. this part along with many others is available on an exchange basis, quite a good idea with the cdi engines other wise all the land fill sites would be full of injectors, turbos, pumps, manifolds, cats etc ;)
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #3
i think you will find that item 25 is an exchange pump. this part along with many others is available on an exchange basis, quite a good idea with the cdi engines other wise all the land fill sites would be full of injectors, turbos, pumps, manifolds, cats etc ;)

It's only £35 ex Vat so i can't see it being a full pump
 

Xtractorfan

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
6,085
Reaction score
159
Your Mercedes
S class
I think you just need to replace the leaking pipes, it wouldnt be a bad idea to replace all those pipes, they arent expensive, you should also replace the pipe securing clips as they can foul on the belts...
 

Alex Crow

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
10,677
Reaction score
47
Location
Super Suffolk
Your Mercedes
W169, W124, w202, W203, KTM 250 EXC, VW T25 camper and a Polo in a pear tree
fair enough wullyuk, £35 would be cheap for a pump!! presumably the parts supplier quoting for these parts have confirmed that this IS a seal kit for the pump? this is news to me as we have been always been told that only the exchange pumps are available, even when it is just a leak from one of the valve covers! assuming you are saying that the pump itself is definitely leaking and not just the o-rings then go for it.
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #6
Had a look through the EPC and called MB Glasgow for cost and availability of the following:-

17 - A012 997 07 45 £0.98
21 - A000 078 01 31 £6.93
22 - A000 997 70 44 £0.83
25 - A000 078 06 80 £31.15
62 - A611 070 03 30 £2.17
116 - A611 070 48 32 £12.01
118 - A601 997 06 45 £0.67
125 - A611 070 73 32 £35.81
137 - A601 997 06 45 £0.67
139 - A006 990 60 40 £1.03
149 - A611 070 49 32 £15.21
161 - A601 997 03 45 £1.45
or A601 997 06 45 £0.67
242 - A6110781241 £1.03

I posted the same over on another forum and someone came back stating that the fuel line clips below the pump should be changed at the same time as they become brittle.

Does anyone know if items 21 & 22 need changed as they are like a compression joint so you would expect the locking nut and "olive" to stay in place.
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #7
This was the temp repair by the AA:-

17102009049.jpg


This is the area where the more serious leak is from, if you look at the bolt its to back of this at the bottom. The seal does look as if its away but it's been like this since i've had the car and thats 3 1/2 years.

17102009048.jpg


This one shows the fuel pipes to the rear covered in diesel:-

17102009050.jpg
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
fair enough wullyuk, £35 would be cheap for a pump!! presumably the parts supplier quoting for these parts have confirmed that this IS a seal kit for the pump? this is news to me as we have been always been told that only the exchange pumps are available, even when it is just a leak from one of the valve covers! assuming you are saying that the pump itself is definitely leaking and not just the o-rings then go for it.

It definitely looks like the cover of the pump, if the plate that houses the pipe connection was sealed i would have said possibly but as the service kit is available its got to be.

Big problem is it's stuck at the g/friends 20 miles from home so gonna get the AA to recover it tomorrow.
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #9
Just came across this in the DIY, when i searched this did not come up! Thanks to T1M4

I understand this is a common problem causing either poor starting or the engine to die a second or so after starting then taking lots of cranking over to re start.
It isn’t the pipes themselves rather the seals on the ends that go faulty however, the pipes go brittle and discoloured. As you can see below the four new pipes from the MD dealer. (cost around £40 for the lot)

Firstly you need to remove the engine cover by undoing the six bolts and taking off the oil filler cap (5mm Hex)

This is the first pipe, the smallest which is an easy one to start with
To release the pipes press the white clips inwards and pull the pipes out

The white part of the clip simple pushes forwards.
When you remove the pipe some diesel might leak out so it is a good idea to have a cloth ready to wipe up any spills.

This shows how badly the discolouration is, and the pipes are very brittle.

Push the clip in on the new pipe, clean the mating surface, push the pipe fully home and pull the white clip back out to fix it in.
The next three pipes are a little more difficult because they run around the front of the engine. The next pipe that I did was the long pipe that runs along the top.


Please see part two for the rest instructions many thanks.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=31202
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #10
And again thanks!


These two pipes are held in by two clips be careful when removing them that you unclip them from the top because they will break if tried to be unclipped from the bottom.
As you can see from the picture above the clip on the pipe is different to that of the first pipe to get this out, you need an 8mm socket and remove the bolt this then removes the cover and allows the pipe to be removed.

The other end of this pipe is the same as the first pipe. However, I was not able to remove it because I could not push the white clip forward enough, so I cut the pipe this allowed me to turn the clip and remove it.

The next pipe also has a different fitting on one end of it, there is no white part to the clip so this means that at the back of the pipe you need to push the clip so that it releases it and you are able to remove it.

This is the fitting as you can see the fitting gets pushed in at the back and this brings the sides out so that the pipe will come out.
I could not remove the pipe by pushing the clips in so I broke the clips off allowing me to remove the pipe.

At this point both of these pipes need to be changed at the same time because on is behind the other one.

Once all of the pipes are on your engine will have four clean pipes.

May be a good idea to change the fuel filter at this time if it’s anywhere near due. Once your finished all that remains is to crank the engine sufficiently to purge the air. Remember not to crank for too long so as to overheat your starter. Give it a few long cranks then rest for a minute or so. If your battery is not in good order you may find it runs out of charge before the engine fires in which case your going to have to re-charge and try again -- Good Luck !!
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #11
I'm beginning to think it's the seal on the plastic connector, this photo shows it perfect:-

 

television

Always remembered RIP
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
164,073
Reaction score
367
Age
89
Location
Daventry
Your Mercedes
2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
Wish I knew something about these,,that link is very good,,where did you find it
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #13
It was hidden away in the DIY section, didn't come up with a search for some reason
 

television

Always remembered RIP
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
164,073
Reaction score
367
Age
89
Location
Daventry
Your Mercedes
2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
It was hidden away in the DIY section, didn't come up with a search for some reason

Thank you and all the best on fixing it,,I think that you are well under way
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #15
Roll on Wednesday, thats the earliest MB Glasgow can get them in!
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #18
Update:-

Called the AA back via my Dad who has relay on his membership so we could get the car home.

The guy who turned up was determined to get the car driving again so he set about removing the shut off valve and pipework entering the high pressure pump.

Here is what he found, the one on the left is the supply pipe and the other the return from the rail:-

18102009065.jpg


As a few have mentioned he was sure someone at some stage had been in about this and reused the old seal.

Anyway after making a temp seal the car fired up with no leaks, just need to revise my shopping list now i know what i know! :D
 

Alex Crow

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
10,677
Reaction score
47
Location
Super Suffolk
Your Mercedes
W169, W124, w202, W203, KTM 250 EXC, VW T25 camper and a Polo in a pear tree
glad you are getting somewhere, please note however that these seals are not the ones that should be keeping fuel in and air out. you will find that there are also o-rings on the ends of the pipes like all the other ones. these foam seals would not do much more than either keeping grit/dirt out or stopping movement of the pipes due to pressure pulsing.
 
OP
W

wullyuk

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #20
glad you are getting somewhere, please note however that these seals are not the ones that should be keeping fuel in and air out. you will find that there are also o-rings on the ends of the pipes like all the other ones. these foam seals would not do much more than either keeping grit/dirt out or stopping movement of the pipes due to pressure pulsing.

Yep these are classed as washers in the EPC.

The strange thing when i select the washer in the EPC it tells me that it's not valid for my model based on the vin. The only thing i can think of it comes with the plastic coupler when you purchase that.

I'll see what the guy at the parts counter says!
 

d:class automotive are specialists in automotive interiors and upholstery. From Mercedes and modern cars to custom and classics. Tel: 01483 722923 Email:info@dclass.co.ukWeb:www.dclass.co.uk
Top Bottom