W210 Tie rod and bottom ball joint replacement: DIY How to.

brandwooddixon

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As I've had a go myself, I thought I'd document it and post it here for those wanting to know how to do it.

Here's a quick break down of time, cost, parts and tools.

Parts:
Tie rod £50.40 inc VAT
Bottom ball joint £29.14
Locking nut x3 @88p

Time: 2 hours max per side (getting tools out, doing the job, talking to neighbour, making tea, cleaning up)

Tools:
Jack
22mm socket
22mm spanner
Ball joint splitter or Medium persuader (lump hammer)
Torque wrench
Allen keys (can't remember the size - about 5mm - used to stop a loose ball joint spinning whilst removing the locking nut)
WD40 or penetrating oil.


OK here's the parts as seen from behind the wheel:

2248070131_82bb1dd97f.jpg
 
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brandwooddixon

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1. Basic preparation.

Jack up the vehicle.

Remove the road wheel.

It's best to secure the vehicle on axle stands or similar in case of jack failure.

2. Tie rod removal and replacement.

Liberal amounts of penetrating oil may be needed on the nuts before proceeding.

Remove the ball joint top 22mm nut.

Either use a ball joint splitter or a bit of heavy persuasion to release the ball joint from the hub carrier.

Undo the lock nut on the steering arm.

Remove the tie rod ball joint.

Installation is a reversal, with the splitter or persuasion.

Place a new lock nut on the ball joint bolt and tighten to 70Nm.
 
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brandwooddixon

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3. Lower ball joint replacement.

This is easier to do if the tie rod has been disconnected from the hub.

The bottom ball joint is placed under tension due to the road spring pushing against the lower suspension arm. It is best to support this arm.

2248919032_454445abd2.jpg


First undo the bottom nut.

Seperate the lower joint from the hub (splitter or persuader). If using a splitter note that there is a hardened pin hidden in the bottom of the joint. It is better to position the splitter jaws vertically if possible.

Swing the hub away - preferably towards the back of the vehicle as this will protect the breake hoses - and place a support under it.

Remove the top nut. With the hub swung away you can now access the nut with a socket and wrench rather than a spanner.

Installation is the reverse of this procedure.

Replace the nuts and tighten to 105Nm.
 

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