W211 Bouncing Door lock fix (plus other's)

Miffy

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CLK 320 CAB Elegance C208
If you have the dreaded bouncing door lock issue, a temp fix can be effected by jamming a toothpick or similar down the side of the lock button, the additional friction will stop the real issue (broken spring) from bouncing the lock.

The perm fix is either to replace the complete door lock or fix the part thats broken, ie replace the spring. Now, I must say here that I have not had this issue, nor have I seen the fix being made, all I have done is to re-do a often missed DIY created by a member (web-rover) and with the help of Alex Crow, secured a forum discount on the springs.

On with the DIY, and good luck :)

Unclip the front cover using fingers
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Remove T20 screw and disconnect leads to speaker (connector visible)
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Pry off the panel under the door pull using a narrow bladed screwdriver, from the bottom, revealing the two T20 screws. Remove these.
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Remove the plastic striker plate cover with one screw (already removed here),
then:
Pry off the door trim from its clips around the edges, starting at back, then bottom, then to front. I’m using a furniture wedge here but you can make your own wedge from softwood to avoid damaging paintwork.
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Remove speaker by unclipping at front edge. Tape it to door frame or to the trim panel itself.
Not shown:
Remove the panel by pulling out from door at base, then lifting upwards. Be careful not to stretch any electrical cables. Unclip all cable connectors and the door lock-pull cable from inside the panel, then remove the panel and place on back seat or somewhere it won’t get dirty.
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Finally, unscrew the outer handle pull button with one T20 screw, hidden underneath the rubber inside the door edge. You’ll need a long T20 screwdriver for this. A multibit screwdriver won’t be slim enough to fit.
If removing the drivers side with IR sensor, unclip the electrical connector.
Tip: When reassembling, feed string through hole from outside, tie it to the electrical connector from lock to help pull it up through the hole.
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Not pictured:
Remove the lock’s three T25 screws holding it in the door.
Drill out the bottom two rivets from the window guide. (Some guides suggest all three)
When re-assembling replace with either M8 x 10mm bolts, or poprivets. I found pop rivets easier
(shown here).
Once the rivets have gone, pull the lock down in the door casing then out of the gap created by pushing back the window guide. This is fiddly but it will go.
Tip: when putting the lock back in there is a white plastic shield that keeps the lock mechanism dry that you need to push away to get the lock in place. Try to see how it fits before removing the lock. A torch can be helpful at this point.
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Lock actuator with the cover removed
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Broken spring located and removed with a jeweller’s screwdriver. You may also need to use pliers. Make sure you get both broken bits out. The end may still be in its seat and need to be pushed out with a bent paperclip.
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The offending spring and broken arm removed!
An easy replacement, though a bit fiddly.
Dismantling the lock and replacing the spring takes around 30 minutes. Less with practice. A lot cheaper than replacing with a new one.
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You can buy the springs from here http://www.carrat-auto.eu/ with a forum discount. We have an overall 25% discount for all items. At checkout enter code MBO1498

Please feel free to take clearer pictures of existing images or of the missing images, and let me know of any text that could be improved, and I will add them to this DIY.
 
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