What type of under-seal would you use? MB SL280 R129

Hans Solo5

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Just had the old lady MOT'd today, passed with flying colours.

Just one point the garage made was the rear subframe was showing early signs of rust ( 21 years old) He suggested to bring her in for a good spray of old engine oil.

The garage owner has a MK2 Jaguar and keeps her in near mint condition. he has a special ramp and soaks the underneath once mud and any loose stuff is removed with oil.

Doesn't sound like a bad idea but is it a bit primitive for my old lady ?

Would welcome your comments, thank you.

David
 

Flyinspanner

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I wouldn’t use old engine oil :- 1. it may stink. 2. It will drip on your driveway. 3. You’ll never know if you have an oil leak. 4. Dust will stick to it making a rather mild grinding paste....

Bilt Hamber

Waxoyl

And many others
 

LostKiwi

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Tectyl, Waxoil, Bilt Hamber etc.
Definitely not engine oil. Aside from anything else the mot man will make an advisory of it.
 

GlosRichCLK

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Old engine oil is a really old school method.
Hope he wears a mask when he sprays it, with all that old carbon in it, it's well carcinogenic.
Generally it's better to clean the component, treat the rust, then paint with a zinc based paint, rather than cover it up with underseal.
 

daibevan

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He probably uses the old oil so he doesn't have to dispose of it and it's free to him. If he did it often enough he could get rid of all of his old oil over the roads of the UK.:rolleyes:
 

keefysher

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Surprised if there is that much old engine oil about after you've coated the fence, decking and poured the leftovers down the drain in the street :rolleyes::rolleyes:

After applying the zinc based paint, spray with waxoyl. Either the clear or the black. Remember to put the can in a bucket of hot water, makes it easier to apply. :confused:
 

daveenty

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Which Bilt Hamber product for under a car?

Ta

The Dynax S50. Just done all the back end on my 190 with it. Comes with an applicator wand which you can get inside the chassis rails with and it stays soft with apparent self healing properties.

They also do a Dynax UC which has similar properties but is clear, so good for under the wheel arches where the colour of the paint should be seen.
 

ldare

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The Dynax S50. Just done all the back end on my 190 with it. Comes with an applicator wand which you can get inside the chassis rails with and it stays soft with apparent self healing properties.

They also do a Dynax UC which has similar properties but is clear, so good for under the wheel arches where the colour of the paint should be seen.

Thanks for this, just ordered a 750ml spray. Just to confirm I take a wire brush to any loose bits and then just spray the lot with this? No need to repaint with zinc paint afterwards?

Thanks
Louis
 

daveenty

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Get as much of the loose stuff off as possible first.

What I did then was to attack it with a clean and strip disc on a small rotary tool to get it down to bare shiny metal. Then, after a coat of etch primer, I gave it a couple of coats of black "Hammerite Direct to Metal" to seal it and hopefully keep the rust at bay. I know it says direct to metal on the tin but I prefer to use an etch primer first, just because really.

The Dynax stuff is your final protection and should go onto a well prepared surface and hopefully it will keep it that way. Oh, and I cheated by taking the subframe off to make access easier. :)

This was what I started with after a bit of scratching:

002 Under frame rust.jpg

And this was how it ended up:

012 Rear end done.jpg
 
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Hans Solo5

Hans Solo5

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  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
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Thank you for all the positive comments, never liked the idea of engine oil.

Great Forum
 

ldare

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Just used a can of Dynax under my 2003 M series, how long until I do again? Next June?

Ta
Louis
 

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