Which oil to use in C220 CDi

[bogeyman]

I've got a 2006 C220 CDi. In all the previous services the MB dealer has used Shell Helix Ultra 5w30. I took my car for a service yesterday at a different MB dealer and they used Mobil 1 5w40 oil (slightly different grade).

I also got a 1 litre top-up to use between services and that is Mobil 1 0w40 oil (again a totally different grade)

2 questions. Have they used the right oil? And shouldn't the top-up litre be the same grade as what they put in (if thats correct that is)

 

[television]

The maker of the oil is not important,,the main thing is that it meets the MB spec . back in 2002 it was 229.1 this has now moved on to 229.5 and there was a 229,3 midway between those years. So any 229.5 is the newest, but the others are OK too

 

[startech]

Malcom is correct in that most things use 229.5 which is the spec for mobil 1 0w/40 oil but if the car has a diesel particulate filter then it has to have 229.3 which is a low ash oil (mobil 1 ESP 5w/30).

 

[television]

Malcom is correct in that most things use 229.5 which is the spec for mobil 1 0w/40 oil but if the car has a diesel particulate filter then it has to have 229.3 which is a low ash oil (mobil 1 ESP 5w/30).

Hello and welcome to you sir

 

[Silver_Star]

As above spec is more important than grade. I always however use Fuch's 10w/40 fully synthetic when I change mine which I am led to believe is factory fill for Mercedes and many other german marques.

 

[Rory]

There's a chart in the back of the handbook which tells you which viscosity to use - turns out that in the relatively mild temperatures in the UK you can use just about anything.

30 oils have tended to come about with the drive for fuel economy - there's a little less drag than a 40 viscosity oil.

Ideally, the lower the first number, the better. The problem is that it's better to have as tight a difference as possible between the two numbers.

So 5W40 is better than a 0W40 unless you will be starting the car in really low temperatures. A 0W30 wouldn't be ideal if the car was used in high ambient temps. A 5W30 is good as there a closer difference between the 2 numbers.

In the UK, in a mercedes, it makes no practical difference what you use.

 

[haggettd]

if the car has a diesel particulate filter then it has to have 229.3 which is a low ash oil (mobil 1 ESP 5w/30).

This is incorrect startech.
If your car has a particulate filter you must use Low Ash oil as you say BUT, low Ash oils are 229.31 and 229.51 for extended service intervals. (See opie oils website to confirm).
you can top up with 229.3 or 229.5 but not fill your sump with it.
Previous owner of my car had wrong oil for 50,000 miles (courtesy of MB servicing!).
This clogged the filter which had to be replaced at 67k miles.

 

[Mook]

c220 cdi

Hi sorry if I am asking the same question. I have bought 15w40. Will that be OK for my 2002 c220 cdi? Thanks

 

[Rory]

Hi sorry if I am asking the same question. I have bought 15w40. Will that be OK for my 2002 c220 cdi? Thanks

That would be fine through the summer, but the 15W part of the number is a bit marginal if we have temps below about -10C in the winter, and it is forecast to be as cold, or possibly even colder, this winter than the last two. You could have difficulty cranking the engine in very low temps, and it will take longer for the oil to circulate well.

There's a chart in the back of the service book, or click on the chart in the 3rd section down (Viscosity and Viscosity Index (VI)) at this link: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible_pg2.html

 

[Roxie]

Sorry but only #7 is close so far.

Multi grade oil is just that. eg. 15w/40 the 15 is how thin is is when it is hot and the 40 is how thick it is when it is cold. This was developed to stop us having to change the oil when the weather changed. In this country we are prety much okay to use any grade on sale. If the oil is too thick in the winter the starter motor is put under additional strain but if the oil is too thin in the summer then it is the bearings that take the strain.

Much more important are the other numbers, this is the M.B. specification of service products. 229 denotes passenger car engine oil .3 denotes mineral oil .5 is semi-synthetic or fully synthetic. Whilst the next digit 1 is for low ash.

If you have a diesel particulate filter you must use low ash oil this includes top ups. Or you will run the risk of the filter blocking prematurely so you should use 229.51 or 229.31 oil only.

If you do not have this filter then you should use 229.3 or 229.5 if you use synthetic oil then the service interval will be extended over mineral oil. The service system should be set acordingly at the time of performing the service, if you opt for synthetic you should only top up with synthetic or the oil in the engine will turn to sludge before the service is due. If you use mineral oil then you can top up with synthetic however there is no benefit to doing this.

 

[Rory]

Sorry but only #7 is close so far.

Multi grade oil is just that. eg. 15w/40 the 15 is how thin is is when it is hot and the 40 is how thick it is when it is cold. This was developed to stop us having to change the oil when the weather changed. In this country we are prety much okay to use any grade on sale. If the oil is too thick in the winter the starter motor is put under additional strain but if the oil is too thin in the summer then it is the bearings that take the strain.

Much more important are the other numbers, this is the M.B. specification of service products. 229 denotes passenger car engine oil .3 denotes mineral oil .5 is semi-synthetic or fully synthetic. Whilst the next digit 1 is for low ash.

Hmm....a lot of totally incorrect info there, as well as some mis-guided opinion.

You're completely wrong about the viscosity. The W means Winter - the first number (15) is the viscosity when cold and the 40 is when hot.

If you refer to the charts on cold viscosity vs temperature then a 15W/40 is too thick, bearing in mind we've had -20C for the last two winters.

The MB spec 229.3 is synthetic, as is 229.5. Only the 229.1 is mineral. The MB spec is not particularly important at all. It's a marketing thing - there's nothing special about the oil. Indeed Mercedes cars will run on pretty well anything - do you really think they worry about MB229.xx on Mercs that are run in Africa? Any decent brand of oil will be absolutely fine (but most say they're to MB229.etc spec anyway).

The OP's car won't have a DPF so the LA stuff is probably irrelevant. We've had cases in these forums where the dealers weren't using LA oil on DPF cars anyway.

 

[M80]

The OP's car won't have a DPF so the LA stuff is probably irrelevant. We've had cases in these forums where the dealers weren't using LA oil on DPF cars anyway.

Have I missed something here ?
I've looked back and can't see where you get the assumption that the op's car won't have a dpf.
My previous 2005 220 did have a dreaded dpf so it is 'possible' with a 2006.

For a couple of quid I would suggest playing safe and going for a 229.51 spec oil. Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge as fully synthetic would do the job.
If it turns out to be over specced as a low ash it won't do any harm but is considered to provide better lubrication for more miles.

If the car requires low ash due to having a dpf and you don't use it oops.

 

[Roxie]

Hmm....a lot of totally incorrect info there, as well as some mis-guided opinion.

You're completely wrong about the viscosity. The W means Winter - the first number (15) is the viscosity when cold and the 40 is when hot.

If you refer to the charts on cold viscosity vs temperature then a 15W/40 is too thick, bearing in mind we've had -20C for the last two winters.

The MB spec 229.3 is synthetic, as is 229.5. Only the 229.1 is mineral. The MB spec is not particularly important at all. It's a marketing thing - there's nothing special about the oil. Indeed Mercedes cars will run on pretty well anything - do you really think they worry about MB229.xx on Mercs that are run in Africa? Any decent brand of oil will be absolutely fine (but most say they're to MB229.etc spec anyway).

The OP's car won't have a DPF so the LA stuff is probably irrelevant. We've had cases in these forums where the dealers weren't using LA oil on DPF cars anyway.

No I am afraid that you are wrong when was the last time you heard of a car not starting because the oil was too thick?

If 15 is thin and 40 thick then rear axle oil at ep 90 must be even thinner and it looks thicker to me, and oil would thicken when heated.

.3 is mineral oil or after looking again it could be semi-synthetic mb spec is absolutely everything why would they spend time and money aproving it if it didnt matter? and use normal oil when low ash should be used at your peril. The oil is only slightly more expensive and a new dpf will set you back around £500.00.

In Africa I havent seen any £20,000+ cars so I don't suppose they care much.

 

[dieseljock]

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=19165

Oilman says it all here.. The first number is for cold viscosity according to him, the second for hot..

 

[Roxie]

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=19165

Oilman says it all here.. The first number is for cold viscosity according to him, the second for hot..

Okay the numbers are a referance at which the oil will still perform at SAE J300 in the given temperatures. However my point is that it does not matter in the uk. Multigrade oil is multigrade oil. The point that needs to be thought about is the M.B. specification of service products. I am not saying if it does not give this information on the label it is no good, just that if it should be Synthetic or low ash or whatever then this is for a reason. If for whatever reason you are not using recomended oil find out what is recomended and use the same spec.

Dont get hung up over whether it is 5/40 15/40 or 5/30 this just means that it is multigrade. and okay to use all year round.

 

[Rory]

Okay the numbers are a referance at which the oil will still perform at SAE J300 in the given temperatures. However my point is that it does not matter in the uk. Multigrade oil is multigrade oil. The point that needs to be thought about is the M.B. specification of service products. I am not saying if it does not give this information on the label it is no good, just that if it should be Synthetic or low ash or whatever then this is for a reason. If for whatever reason you are not using recomended oil find out what is recomended and use the same spec.

Dont get hung up over whether it is 5/40 15/40 or 5/30 this just means that it is multigrade. and okay to use all year round.

I find your posts quite bizzare. You're sounding like the Halfords assistant quoted in another thead as saying "oil is oil, init?"

A 15W oil is really too heavy for the temps we can get in the UK in winter - you might get away with it, but at a time when everything else in the car is going to be marginal, you don't want the cranking speed to be impeding by oil that's too thick.

The MB spec is pretty irrelevant. If the car has a DPF then it needs low ash oil, but otherwise, for everyday use, the rest of the spec of the oil (providing it's a decent brand) doesn't matter. A mineral oil can be used, but it'll need changing more frequently - but then many people change their oil far more often than needed, so for them using an expensive fully synth oil is a waste of money.

 

[Roxie]

I find your posts quite bizzare. You're sounding like the Halfords assistant quoted in another thead as saying "oil is oil, init?"

A 15W oil is really too heavy for the temps we can get in the UK in winter - you might get away with it, but at a time when everything else in the car is going to be marginal, you don't want the cranking speed to be impeding by oil that's too thick.

The MB spec is pretty irrelevant. If the car has a DPF then it needs low ash oil, but otherwise, for everyday use, the rest of the spec of the oil (providing it's a decent brand) doesn't matter. A mineral oil can be used, but it'll need changing more frequently - but then many people change their oil far more often than needed, so for them using an expensive fully synth oil is a waste of money.

15/40 goes down to -15C before it starts to get too heavy.

This is the point I am trying to make about low ash.

If you mix mineral with Synthetic you get sludge. Synthetic oil does not degrade slowly, it lasts for ages and then one day, all of a sudden it stops working and turns to sludge.

Otherwise I have just wasted 31 years in the trade. I should have got a proper job.

The only thing that is bizzare is that poeple think that Multigrade oil sold in the UK is not suitable for use in the UK

 

[Colin_P]

Indeed Mercedes cars will run on pretty well anything - do you really think they worry about MB229.xx on Mercs that are run in Africa?

Of course we do!

 

[Alex M Grieve]

15/40 goes down to -15C before it starts to get too heavy.

The only thing that is bizzare is that people think that Multigrade oil sold in the UK is not suitable for use in the UK

Quite so. I wish I had a pound for every pinch of b*ll*cks I have read about oils, viscosities, changing frequencies and durability!

The one thing that does genuinely confuse many though is the change of servicing frequency from every two years (or 15,000 miles) to every year (or 15,000) miles which MB mandated for cars from MY 2007 onwards, in spite of having perfected ASSYST.

 

[Rory]

15/40 goes down to -15C before it starts to get too heavy.

Right - and what temps have we had the last couple of winters, and are forecast for this winter?

I said it would probably be OK, but it's a bit marginal.

The only thing that is bizzare is that poeple think that Multigrade oil sold in the UK is not suitable for use in the UK

You can still get 20W50 but you wouldn't use that in a modern engine, would you?