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  #11  
Old 20-03-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Submariner1 View Post
Thanks Alex

Philips have now suggested that instead of grounding the Blue wire, that I should connect that to the + Ign. acc terminal.
I would do this, I see no issues with this method.

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Originally Posted by Submariner1 View Post
Thanks Alex

Do you think leaving it with this little glitch could harm the car in any way?
I see no issue with leaving it as is either. You can have imagine it as your car blinking
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  #12  
Old 20-03-2017, 11:13 AM
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Sub, yep, there is the vep, the brass rod, but there are also several other bolts in the engine bay that are earth points, try one of those and see. My DRLs use one of these and are fine.
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Old 20-03-2017, 11:34 AM
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Sub, yep, there is the vep, the brass rod, but there are also several other bolts in the engine bay that are earth points, try one of those and see. My DRLs use one of these and are fine.
Thanks
I did, naturally I got the same result as with the VEP; because as you pointed out they are the same thing.
Other than the VEP from the factory has no other wires attached and a sort of extra welded on the body washer. I assume so you can get a ground to bare metal without compromising the anti-rust layers
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Old 20-03-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by alexanderfoti View Post
I would do this, I see no issues with this method.



I see no issue with leaving it as is either. You can have imagine it as your car blinking
Thanks Alex
I think I will go with the blink. My nearest ign.acc is in the fusebox on the other side of the engine. Plus tbh I am not sure how to get the wire out in a "waterproof way"
Also its the easiest way should they fail , i.e. To replace.
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Old 20-03-2017, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by houseboss2 View Post
Any chance of a photo of the official earth point.

Michael
Hi Michael


Its the hollow - brass top hat elongated nut - as seen on the right hand side, half way up the picture.
Just parralell and to the right of those two, short, curved, aluminium pipes (curving off to the right) .
Its a 13mm socket, brass "nut" on a M8 Stud.

( Tip do not drop it ...
Mine fell and it took me 1/2 hour to claw it back with a grabber ) lol

So its on the passenger side, inner metal wheel arch ... above the blue washer fluid res.

Last edited by Submariner1; 20-03-2017 at 12:48 PM.
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  #16  
Old 20-03-2017, 02:22 PM
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Thankyou Sub1

I had used the post on the "strap" to the left of the correct "top Hat post"

Thank you for your trouble.


Michael
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Old 20-03-2017, 02:48 PM
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Thankyou Sub1

I had used the post on the "strap" to the left of the correct "top Hat post"

Thank you for your trouble.


Michael
My pleasure, the really brilliant technician, said the top hat was best, because it didnt disturb the harness, and thus avoided rust building up .. that potentially could cause in the future current drains/false indicators to Star etc.
That said some silicone jelly sandwiched down by the nut would achieve the same result.

But he really did not like the idea of grounding on the battery negative.
I think this battery control module does quite a lot.

By the way you got a storming deal on your car.
If my understanding is correct you bought it in October 2015 making it 6 years old.
Try looking for a march 2011 CL500 with AMG body mods and 26,500 miles ... more like 31,000 from a trader!
I think they have gone up in price.

Last edited by Submariner1; 20-03-2017 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 20-03-2017, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Submariner1 View Post
By the way you got a storming deal on your car.
If my understanding is correct you bought it in October 2015 making it 6 years old.
Try looking for a march 2011 CL500 with AMG body mods and 26,500 miles ... more like 31,000 from a trader!
I think they have gone up in price.
I took a long time to find the right car and this has proved worth while, as to date I have not had one problem and the car looks better now than it did when purchased.

I have recently used a clay bar on all of the bodywork and also the wheels. This was easier than I anticipated with the car being garaged, I could take my time with it and do it as and when I was in the mood.

I am about to get it serviced for the second time in my ownership and after reading about growla66 problems, I have decided to stay with main agent as I feel it may be prudent to maintain mobilo life facility.

As the car is now over 7 years old I was quoted 159 value service or 275 for full service with continued mobilo by MB Leicester (Inchcape).

I still review the adverts out of interest but am aware that Mercedes depreciation on large coupes is still quite a high annual percentage and have accepted this as the car is still well worth it. A 5 Star driving experience that I have not experienced in any other car.

Michael
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  #19  
Old 21-03-2017, 03:24 PM
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Finally Philips technical called me back, 7 days later!
No wonder he didnt want to speak to me. His lack of basic electrics, vehicle knowledge and logic was scary!

Conversely, the Problem solved by Carl at MBS in 3 mins!

In summary I am connecting the Red to battery Positive, and the Black and the Blue control wire to VEP. As recommended by MB MD and Carl and Alex.
I will live with the "one time switch off and on", on startup.
Most think this is due to a transient low voltage beneath the DRL kit's min. Voltage threshold, until the Altenator stabilises at a high enough voltage.
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  #20  
Old 21-03-2017, 03:37 PM
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for ref here is where my drls are grounded. They are the black wire, the brown are other earth wires already there.
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