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Old 13-02-2008, 02:38 PM
brandwooddixon brandwooddixon is offline
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Location: Wolverhampton
Car: CL500 - 2004 model with loads of toys
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Default How to replace W210 ARB drop lilnks and bushes

Its a common problem with W210s, especially for areas infested with speed calming measures, your drop links will become worn, resulting in knocking from the front suspension and high frequency vibrations after passing over bumps.

Replacement of these parts can be performed with the vehicle on ramps, although if you have access to a lift it would undoubtably be easier.

Time taken: about 1.5 hours
drop links 6.70 +VAT each
ARB bush 3.95+VAT
Bolts 90p+VAT each. or treat the old ones with thread lock when refitting

13mm or 1/2" socket
T50 Torx bit
Silicon spray grease
Torque wrench

Here're my pictures for this operation:

1. If it hasn't already been done place a mark on the anti-roll bar so that when you come to reinstall it you can ensure that it is located centrally to the chassis. I put a blob of paint in the middle in line with the centre of the gearbox.

2. Undo the T50 torx bolt at the bottom of the drop link. These bolts will probably have been treated with thread lock and may be troublesome to remove.

3. Undo the four 13mm bolts which attach the anti-roll bar to the chassis. Be careful, the bar is heavy and give you a good bruise if you're not ready.

4. With the bar removed you'll need to remove the old drop links from it. They are only a push fit but will probably be troublesome.

5. The main ARB bush holder will come apart into two pieces. Try and remember the location of the heat shield for reinstallation. Slide the bush off the end of the bar.

6. If it's been a long time since they were last replaced you'll probably notice some bad pitting and rust underneath the old bushes. Best to clean and treat.

7. Spray a light covering of silicon grease or something similar over the bar to make it easier to install the new bushes.

8. The new drop links are handed. It's best to install them before installing the ARB as when underneath the vehicle you may not be able to get sufficient leverage to pop them over the ends of the bar. The rubber "ear" faces away from the lower wishbone and towards the car centre line.

9. Replacement is now the reverse of removal. Don't tighten up the bolts until you are sure that the ARB is centralised.

Torque settings:
ARB bush bolts to chassis: 20Nm
Drop link to lower wishbone: 80Nm
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Old 14-02-2008, 01:38 PM
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Attempted mine this week and one of the bolts on each of the anti-roll bar brackets was cross-threaded and bent. This is the first time this job has been attempted so must of happened in the factory. Had to go to the local garage and get the bolts removed and replaced so I can have another go at the weekend. I have changed the drop links one side at a time, bit fiddly but can be done. Will be trying to change the drop-link and antiroll bar bush one side at a time if there is enough clearance to slide the bush off.
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:38 PM
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Parrot of Doom Parrot of Doom is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Manchester
Car: Was an E300TD, now a Lexus LS400
Posts: 2,167

Just did mine today. A fair bit more difficult than I thought, in the main due to getting the links on and off (they're damn tight).

And I forgot to put the heatshield back on. Dammit.
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:28 PM
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anyweb anyweb is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sweden
Car: w212,w120 (petrol),w120 (diesel)
Posts: 2,463

good article, i've copied it to the DIY section

Driving a W212 E350 Cdi to work, and for fun I drive a 1962 W120. Just bought a 1960 W120 (Diesel) which you can see here. Previous cars include a high spec W211 E320 CDi, a W203 C240, a 1987 W201, a 1995 W202 C220 and a 1966 W110. I'm on Facebook.
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Old 28-02-2010, 05:51 PM
Brucey Brucey is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: St Florent sur Auzonnet
Car: E220 CDi W210 (2001) LHD
Posts: 24

I have ordered a set of drop links and will be fitting them as soon as they arrive. I have already replaced the bottom ball joints but there is still a bit of suspension noise on uneven surfaces so I hope changing the drop links will do the trick. Local garage said the wheel bearings needed replacing but that was without even looking at the car...

The suspension noise seems to disappear as soon as the vehicle is put into a bend, which suggests that there's free play in the links somewhere.

Will update on result when done.

Last edited by Brucey; 28-02-2010 at 05:52 PM. Reason: thought of something else to add.
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