michael8664
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2012
- Messages
- 41
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Wiltshire UK
- Your Mercedes
- 2005 ML 270CDI W163 Auto, 2002 A160 Auto W168
Took advantage of a gap in the gales to investigate disabling the EGR on my 2005 ML 270 CDI.
Although I had read all 54 pages of this topic there were a couple of points that I got wrong.
For some reason I thought that the EGR and the EGR Vacuum Actuator were one and the same item.
So with the engine cover off I started looking for a small aluminium unit with an electrical plug and of course I couldn't find it.
However, at the front nearside of the engine was a large diameter hose that I
noticed was not quite home in its click-fit housing. I eased the horseshoe spring back, pulled off the hose and peered inside. There was the coked-up shaft of the EGR valve.
I had been completely wrong about the size of the EGR too, I was searching for a unit with a small hose on it.
After that the EGR Vacuum Actuator was easily found, in my case on the passenger compartment nearside bulkhead, actually in full view with the engine cover on.
The MAF was next to identify, found on the offside front of the engine.
Next off were the fusebox and ECU covers to trace the wires.
I'll count the plugs from left to right facing the windscreen.
The left plug (no lock on it) has to be pulled out to allow the next plug's lock arm to swing free, and the same for the next one etc.
The first locked plug (2nd from left) only had up to 40 pins and I was looking
for 37 and 50.
The next plug (3rd from left) had pins 37 and pin 50 so I was in business.
As in other reports the Yellow/Black and Red/Grey wires were twisted together.
At this point bad light stopped play so I didn't investigate the ECU end of the
MAF wire, in my case Brown/White at the MAF end.
Looking at the images in earlier posts in this thread I will need to look in the
first locked plug, 2nd from left in my numbering scheme, for pin 24.
When I do actually do the mod I will take images and post into the main Disabling EGR thread.
Regarding the increased warm-up time, which is not a problem for the Australian expert (oigle), I'm wondering about an active bypass, either with a time delay of say 5 minutes, or with actuation from a suitable existing thermo switch. This would need to be done competently to avoid reliability issues!
Although I had read all 54 pages of this topic there were a couple of points that I got wrong.
For some reason I thought that the EGR and the EGR Vacuum Actuator were one and the same item.
So with the engine cover off I started looking for a small aluminium unit with an electrical plug and of course I couldn't find it.
However, at the front nearside of the engine was a large diameter hose that I
noticed was not quite home in its click-fit housing. I eased the horseshoe spring back, pulled off the hose and peered inside. There was the coked-up shaft of the EGR valve.
I had been completely wrong about the size of the EGR too, I was searching for a unit with a small hose on it.
After that the EGR Vacuum Actuator was easily found, in my case on the passenger compartment nearside bulkhead, actually in full view with the engine cover on.
The MAF was next to identify, found on the offside front of the engine.
Next off were the fusebox and ECU covers to trace the wires.
I'll count the plugs from left to right facing the windscreen.
The left plug (no lock on it) has to be pulled out to allow the next plug's lock arm to swing free, and the same for the next one etc.
The first locked plug (2nd from left) only had up to 40 pins and I was looking
for 37 and 50.
The next plug (3rd from left) had pins 37 and pin 50 so I was in business.
As in other reports the Yellow/Black and Red/Grey wires were twisted together.
At this point bad light stopped play so I didn't investigate the ECU end of the
MAF wire, in my case Brown/White at the MAF end.
Looking at the images in earlier posts in this thread I will need to look in the
first locked plug, 2nd from left in my numbering scheme, for pin 24.
When I do actually do the mod I will take images and post into the main Disabling EGR thread.
Regarding the increased warm-up time, which is not a problem for the Australian expert (oigle), I'm wondering about an active bypass, either with a time delay of say 5 minutes, or with actuation from a suitable existing thermo switch. This would need to be done competently to avoid reliability issues!