Submariner1
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- Your Mercedes
- CL500 2009 5.5
Just checking out a few things before replacing the suspect HK Amplifier. (problem noted below)
Q. Can one use a self ranging multimeter directly on the tweeter to check its not burnt out or shorting? i.e. disconnect the wiring plug, and put the meter probes directly on the tweeter speaker terminals.
The range of this meter is
400.0 - 4000 - 40000 Ohms. I am hoping when it passes through a current to test the resistance, that current will be so low it won’t fry the tweeter.
Q. Does it matter which way around, and if so, is my memory correct that the Negative is normally the fatter terminal?
I know one technically really needs an AC Impedance Ohms Meter to determine the exact impedance of the speaker. As I dont have one, and know one can use a Multimeter to get a rough check on a ‘full range’ speaker; that will at least determine if its OL or dead shorting. (E.g. an 8 Ohm speaker may show circa 6 Ohms actual resistance and a 4 Ohm speaker may show 3 Ohms etc. ).
Note I am not trying to accurately verify the impedance, like one would when critically determining the load of a speaker circuit on an amplifier.
Just identify is this tweeter burnt out or intermittantently shorting?
Problem if interested:
Intermittently all the Speakers all go very quiet, but the left Tweeter gets very loud and has an overlay of loud distortion.
When it last did this, I gave the tweeter speaker pod a very hard slap, and it magically instantly all sounded perfect! And has remained working for 2 days!
Yes as soon as it break again I intend to have it put on STAR. Hopefully then to get the actual current fault code and any old stored ones. Not sure if it stores earlier wiring and amplifier fault codes.
Q. Can one use a self ranging multimeter directly on the tweeter to check its not burnt out or shorting? i.e. disconnect the wiring plug, and put the meter probes directly on the tweeter speaker terminals.
The range of this meter is
400.0 - 4000 - 40000 Ohms. I am hoping when it passes through a current to test the resistance, that current will be so low it won’t fry the tweeter.
Q. Does it matter which way around, and if so, is my memory correct that the Negative is normally the fatter terminal?
I know one technically really needs an AC Impedance Ohms Meter to determine the exact impedance of the speaker. As I dont have one, and know one can use a Multimeter to get a rough check on a ‘full range’ speaker; that will at least determine if its OL or dead shorting. (E.g. an 8 Ohm speaker may show circa 6 Ohms actual resistance and a 4 Ohm speaker may show 3 Ohms etc. ).
Note I am not trying to accurately verify the impedance, like one would when critically determining the load of a speaker circuit on an amplifier.
Just identify is this tweeter burnt out or intermittantently shorting?
Problem if interested:
Intermittently all the Speakers all go very quiet, but the left Tweeter gets very loud and has an overlay of loud distortion.
When it last did this, I gave the tweeter speaker pod a very hard slap, and it magically instantly all sounded perfect! And has remained working for 2 days!
Yes as soon as it break again I intend to have it put on STAR. Hopefully then to get the actual current fault code and any old stored ones. Not sure if it stores earlier wiring and amplifier fault codes.