W209 CLK Front brake disc shield replacement & hub removal advice.

[Droverunner]

Doing a track rod end yesterday I found about a third of the rusty nearside front disc shield flapping like a hinge so it could touch the disc. So I broke it off to stop the loose section getting trapped in the brakes but now want to replace the disc shield.

Seems you need the disc and hub off?? Any dodges round this?

Disc is easy as they were new this year but what about the hub? Haynes warns the inner race may stick on the hub spigot so needing a puller to remove which will spoil the bearing. Is this so or does the hub usually pull off in one?

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[LostKiwi]

The inner race does usually stick but is not normally difficult to remove ( with some care). You will destroy the seal on the hub so source a new one.
When reassembling only knock the seal flush to the hub otherwise you may end up with an ABS failure.

 

[Droverunner]

Thanks... and to onefortheroad for the PM'd diagram link.

Yep will take care getting the hub/bearing off.

I was getting the disc shield (perhaps do both sides while I'm at it) from Newcastle MB on Ebay so will message and ask them to do a price inc the hub seal.

 

[Droverunner]

Something I've read on a wheel bearing kit listing said "OE magnetic pick up oil seal". Does the oil seal play a part in the speed sensor/ABS?

 

[LostKiwi]

Something I've read on a wheel bearing kit listing said "OE magnetic pick up oil seal". Does the oil seal play a part in the speed sensor/ABS?

Yes. Hence my comments about knocking the seal in flush to the hub.

 

[onefortheroad]

I tried with a Lucas kit . it ended in failure lol. New hub from mb £190 .

 

[Droverunner]

Thanks guys. I'm getting the disc shield from Mercedes and they are also supplying the "magnetic" bearing seal so fingers crossed.

 

[Droverunner]

Job completed this morning so thought I'd feed back.

The hub/wheel bearing assembly including oil seal all pulled off easily by hand and as one without marking the seal. The bearings and tracks were in great condition for 122k mls. I saw no reason to change the seal/magnetic trigger so have kept the one I bought for another time. After assembly a test run didn't show any ABS or wheel sensor related issues/codes.

A Torx socket is needed to remove the three disc shield bolts... they were tight and the heads were pretty rusty so I reckon any attempt with a bodged on socket etc would have rounded them off.

I took a photo of the locking collar/bearing adjustment nut before taking apart... and setting the bearing free play by hand brought it to the same position so happy with that.

Pics of... comparison between new and rusted shield... the seal/speed trigger... the speed sensor behind the shield... the torx head bolt... the front hub setting.

 

[LostKiwi]

Great result. Well done!

 

[onefortheroad]

Top draw diying .

 

[Droverunner]

Yep... thanks. I was prepared for it to throw a speed sensor code because I've had trouble before with similar arrangements of other makes... but always better to nip up the road and it be OK.

N/S track control arm... O/S track rod end and both steering inner tie rods next week then hopefully that's it ready for autumn/winter.