Here’s some readings , anyone simplify them especially to do with my fault message bas , eps , presa

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the message is saying a safety feature isn't functioning correctly.

if you know how to drive BAS is a total waste of space... its designed for scared drivers who shouldn't be behind the wheel.

both BAS and BAS plus, only function if the driver is already pressing the brake pedal. Its to stop light weights from getting scared when the ABS cuts in and gives them a baby foot massage.... in this situation no matter how delicately you press the pedal it stands on the brakes

BAS Plus (which is part of distronic plus on the later 221) uses the cruise radar to work out how much braking is required to miss the object [if it detected it] and stands on the brakes accordingly... when this happens "Pre Safe" also kicks in, changes the seat position, snatches the seat belts tight, pumps up the cushions in seat bolters and gets the airbags ready to go pop
 
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Wish I could by pass it then lol. and stop the stupid messages. As the car brakes steered and drives 100%
 
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ESP is the one that you definitely want working correctly
 
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Can’t get it to star so trying to sort at home. Some say it’s bas sensor but to be honest I don’t know exact location,
There’s what looks like 2 sensors on the face of the servo , don’t know if one of these is the bas sensor as seen in photos. There’s point of screwdriver
Pointing to them.
393EB726-8E4C-4E07-A2B9-974AA40A6432.jpeg A5A8D5ED-A0BF-4047-85E2-0C2BC365402F.jpeg
ESP is the one that you definitely want working correctly
 

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….I wonder if BAS is confusing things.

ABS, ESP and BAS all use the ABS wheel speed sensors to know what's going on

from what I've read on this forum they are known to play up with reluctor rings getting dirty, breaking, falling off on early cars (which seems a uniquely Mercedes issue as there's little to play up on a normal car).
and
the sensors dying to time, which again is odd as unless they were designed to fail ! the only other issue would be broken wires on high mile vehicles or those driven frequently on rough roads, which isn't the failure type they suffer from.

as you seem happy to get stuck in. Measure the resistances of the sensors at the connector block. Should be perfectly safe to check with the key out (certainly between the pairs front / rear they should match each other)
 
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….I wonder if BAS is confusing things.

ABS, ESP and BAS all use the ABS wheel speed sensors to know what's going on

from what I've read on this forum they are known to play up with reluctor rings getting dirty, breaking, falling off on early cars (which seems a uniquely Mercedes issue as there's little to play up on a normal car).
and
the sensors dying to time, which again is odd as unless they were designed to fail ! the only other issue would be broken wires on high mile vehicles or those driven frequently on rough roads, which isn't the failure type they suffer from.

as you seem happy to get stuck in. Measure the resistances of the sensors at the connector block. Should be perfectly safe to check with the key out (certainly between the pairs front / rear they should match each other)

Thanks having looked at the front sensors without feeling stupid do you mean connector at the wheel or at the other joint connector.
I assume these are 2 pin would I place the red in one and black in other
Off the multimeter.
 

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yes... two pins, check resistance (ohms) between the two pins at the multiplug end (which might be under the bonnet) its a thin black wire comes off the the hub facing the back of the disc, (prob following the flexy brake pipes) goes up suspension strut and on to inner wing.
 
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Yes seen that goes through the inner wing might just have to lift radiator bottle
off on drivers side never checked passengers side yet. The back I think is just grummits that should hopefully pullout and connector should be there. I assume they should all be the same reading all round. Wish one was faulty
be a easy fix then.
 
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Esp reading on the icarsoft v2 plugged in today , would someone give there opinion on following readings.
Car is on blocks at one side no wheels.
5FEC27FC-B28D-4830-AF20-DCB43F429858.jpeg 39BD96C8-9219-4592-A0C9-A0AF3A5A7450.jpeg D67DEEED-368A-4C4B-99C8-1C3B54439CFE.jpeg 2CB327EA-E1A0-4596-84B7-4EA86F972C4F.jpeg
 
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Got this reading on my new icarsoft v2 today Car is sitting on blocks and I am learning to use it , anyone explain these messages ie what’s what Thanks 8D458ADD-4164-4917-8C91-D37205B4D95A.jpeg 7C088C6B-2C62-4911-B2BD-5803BD2DF523.jpeg 5F908F9E-F812-4EFC-8EBB-9ED7F55125C5.jpeg 545FA205-4860-4418-93C8-DB1FFCA1AD4C.jpeg
 

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I wouldn't worry too much....

modern cars send rubbish round the can bus all day long, wait at traffic lights too much and it'll probably pick up another
low voltage, car having a temper tantrum, something disconnected whist that part still awake and all sorts pop up

its probably a few designed to fail ECUs that are (sadly for Mercedes) still working almost as good as the day they were made

clear them out - if they are real will come straight back again - if you have warning lights or notice something malfunctioning you have to dig deeper

Issue with your ESP BAS or ABS are probably real or "extra noise" from some minor corrosion due to a soggy left floor mat
 
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I wouldn't worry too much....

modern cars send rubbish round the can bus all day long, wait at traffic lights too much and it'll probably pick up another
low voltage, car having a temper tantrum, something disconnected whist that part still awake and all sorts pop up

its probably a few designed to fail ECUs that are (sadly for Mercedes) still working almost as good as the day they were made

clear them out - if they are real will come straight back again - if you have warning lights or notice something malfunctioning you have to dig deeper

Issue with your ESP BAS or ABS are probably real or "extra noise" from some minor corrosion due to a soggy left floor mat

Thanks , I think I have real fault as
the under floor area is as new and dry
I have wheels off at the minute and
Doing pads handbrake etc , so maybe if wheels are back on and rotating I might get better reading. Do you think.
 

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Thanks , I think I have real fault as
the under floor area is as new and dry
I have wheels off at the minute and
Doing pads handbrake etc , so maybe if wheels are back on and rotating I might get better reading. Do you think.

lots of posts here about older Mercs having issues with the reluctor part of (ABS) wheel speed sensor dirty, cracked, falling off or some other weirdness I never understood.

the actual sensors on later cars are definitely designed to fail units, so I don't see why they wouldn't be on the earlier ones. the fact u get strange reading could point to this. they are pricey from Merc, pattern ones should do exactly the same thing (except probably last longer)
 
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lots of posts here about older Mercs having issues with the reluctor part of (ABS) wheel speed sensor dirty, cracked, falling off or some other weirdness I never understood.

the actual sensors on later cars are definitely designed to fail units, so I don't see why they wouldn't be on the earlier ones. the fact u get strange reading could point to this. they are pricey from Merc, pattern ones should do exactly the same thing (except probably last longer)

Don’t want to sound sill which part is the reluctor
 

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Don’t want to sound sill which part is the reluctor


the toothed bit on the drive shaft / disc …. between the sensor and this bit it creates a tiny magnetic field as each notch goes by and the ecu detects this and measures rotational speed

hardly any different to the designed to fail CPS (crank position sensor)
 
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the toothed bit on the drive shaft / disc …. between the sensor and this bit it creates a tiny magnetic field as each notch goes by and the ecu detects this and measures rotational speed

hardly any different to the designed to fail CPS (crank position sensor)


Is there a way to clean it , do you know on front is the cog bit inside the hub and can you change it without replacing whole
Hub etc.
 

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Is there a way to clean it , do you know on front is the cog bit inside the hub and can you change it without replacing whole
Hub etc.


no idea.... never cleaned or replaced or ever need to inspect on any other make of car in my life....
appears to be a Mercedes speciality

DFT ABS sensors on BMW bikes are normal
 
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Ok got my rear pads changed etc , new front right wheel speed sensor.
Since doing brakes I have the abs light on. And can not clear following fault. So anyone point me to the module mentioned below. As thinking this might be the problem to the faults ,abs light and esp message.
Bas fault message has now gone.

964577C0-DA6F-4AF5-B742-7D5172AB448D.jpeg
 

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ABS light should come on and go off after a self test often a few seconds on most cars... On a BM bike it comes on and stays on till the vehicle has gone over 5 mph. Not sure how cars do magic and manage to test "everything" with the vehicle static. I guess there's some continuity check on the sensor wiring and if the control unit thinks its happy, then it ignores whether they are actually getting a valid signal on each wheel.

If its all connected, there's something to understand... Might be a quick drive tells the ABS ECU everything is working?

The other fault in your latest picture I would suggest is a module doing what Merc electronics do best (die, make up failures modes, and or generally report rubbish)
 
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