ML write off rebuild

[Tom-B]

So I’m just embarking on a new project, I’ve been after a W164 for a while now for towing and thought I’d take advantage of a relatively simple rebuild project.

After some scanning of Copart for a while, a relatively clean looking 320CDI came up with Cat N non structural damage to the front.
Some quick maths on repair costs and a rough budget was set, although I ended up bidding slightly more after a VIN check revealed some nice features.

I’m hoping I can recover the history/books although realise that it’s a long shot. Plan A is contacting the previous owner, plan B is the MBUK route.

So onto the car, 2008 facelift 320CDI Sport 104k, 20” wheels, Nav, Power tailgate and heated seats.

First sight looks like it needs:

Bonnet
Wing
Grille
Headlamp
Bumper & grille
Plate plinth
PDC sensor
Grill support frame & upper slam panel

I’m sure more will surface post tear down!

 

[00slk]

Good to see, I used to buy many write offs in my younger days, still would if i had the time. Hope all goes well with this project

 

[Tom-B]

Thanks!

So, it's been a day of mixed news....
The previous owner called me after receiving my letter and we had a chat about what happened. Fortunately no one was seriously hurt, his wife hit a Hyundai of some kind, writing both cars off in the process.

The bad news, he's binned the books and history. He also told me of an issue with the car (which will save me time down the line I guess) which put's it into limp mode sometimes.
His mechanic told him there was a module under the turbo that breaks down when oil leaks on it, now I'm assuming this will be a well documented issue so although it's an inconvenience.. it's better to now now! Another one for the list......

So the good news, he has the missing insert from the key that I have and thinks he also has the second key.. both of which he's going to send me.
I also spoke to MB UK who can give me all service records that they have on file once I get the V5 back in my name and can prove ownership. (even though a V5 isn't proof of ownership lol).

 

[Tom-B]

I'm wondering (albeit prematurely) if the problem could be this:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=96&t=1134393

As it's pretty much exactly as he described, pull away with a bit too much of the loud pedal and it goes into limp mode.
But then again, I guess a number of sensors/modules could cause that if faulty.

Time for an OBD scanner I think!

 

[Tom-B]

Some progress on the strip down, and the parts list is growing

The OS bumper beam crush can and towing eye seems to have taken the brunt of the shunt and is wrecked, along with a nasty ding in the beam too.
Hoping I can remove it, without having to remove the entire front frame assembly as access looks tight behind.

The horns have been pushed into the intercooler, which looks like it may be pierced. There's an oily looking residue around the impact point so I'll need to pressure test it. May just buy a complete used cooling pack.
The radiator has taken a whack in the bottom corner and is split... found this out before stripping down when I put some coolant in only for it to come straight back out again!
And the plastic frame & seal around the cooling pack is mullered.

After sifting through bits of Hyundai from within the bumper I've salvaged as much headlight bracket shrapnel as possible and hopefully I can rebuild the brackets as the headlight lense / housing are intact.
Unfortunately, the passenger side bracket has snapped near the bumper mounting and seems to have disappeared so I'll need to get creative as it's a waste to scrap it.

On the plus side, the chassis rail is straight as an arrow and it looks like all repairs will be bolt on / bolt off.
The lower rad support looks ok and will just need a bit of straightening out.

List now becomes:

Bonnet
Wing
Grille
Headlamp
Bumper & grille
Plate plinth
PDC sensor
Grill support frame & upper slam panel
Bumper bar and OS crush can
Horns x2
Radiator
Intercooler (Potentially)
Cooling pack frame
Headlights (Potentially)
Module (TBC) to fix limp mode...

 

[Wighty]

Excellent stuff buddy , I look forward to reading the full project . Good luck

 

[M80]

The unit breaking down due to oil from the tubo spigott is the inlet port shut off motor.
Some here are installing a 47k resistor (I think) to overcome the fault. Some consideration regarding swirl flaps (being plastic) may be worth while.
V6 CDI Inlet Port Shut Off Motor Replacement | Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

Good luck with the rest.

 

[Taffy7hfa]

It looks like a straight forward nuts and bolts job, pretty cool really..
keep the photos coming

 

[Tom-B]

Yeah if only the parts weren't so expensive, even second hand.... I come from a world of cheap Japanese spares!

Think I'm going to go for a new rad, since it'll all be out. Looks like a pig of a job to do while all the front end is still in place.
I'm hoping it's possible to swap it out without having to de-gas the A/C system and take the condenser out.

 

[JBell]

Yeah if only the parts weren't so expensive, even second hand.

Have you messaged Dronsfields? They are a forum sponsor and give discounts for forum members

"ALL MBO Forum and Club members qualify for 15% discount on second hand parts. Please quote MBO15 when calling: 0333 240 1020 www.dronsfields.com "

 

[Tom-B]

No I haven't, Just joined up so still finding my feet a bit.

Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[alexanderfoti]

You will need to degass it, as the pipes for the ac run through the rad pack, and it will be a nightmare trying to route it in/out without disconnecting.

 

[JBell]

No I haven't, Just joined up so still finding my feet a bit.

Thanks for the recommendation!

No worries, just shop around, you may be able to get parts in the right colour so that will save a large cost.

E-Bay is also your friend for Grills etc

 

[Tom-B]

Came home to a nice surprise today, the previous owner came through with the second key and it has the emergency key within it too. That should save some faffing with lock codes etc, and the blanks are cheap enough on ebay.
Hopefully I can get a new 1/2” drove torx bit over the weekend to get the bumper beam crush can off. Looks like a T50 or a T55 as the T65 I have is way too big.
Have been looking for a workshop manual that lists bolt/nut sizes but so far not had much luck.

 

[Blobcat]

Always worth getting a decent set of Torx bits, Halfords do some which can be quite good value. Their pro-sets can be very good value when on sale.

 

[Tom-B]

A lot of my tools are Halfords professional but I’ve got a feeling I sheared the torx bit that I need and never got it replaced! Lifetime warranty if you have the receipt!

 

[Ken_R]

Think I'm going to go for a new rad, since it'll all be out.

Can it be re-cored? Plenty of firms which do such. West Mercia Radiators in the Black Country being one of them.

Can't be too far from you.

 

[Tom-B]

I’ve not considered that actually Ken, although the rad end tank has a massive split in it so probably not worth saving.
The intercooler on the other hand may be worth getting looked at. Thanks for the note.

 

[keefysher]

A lot of my tools are Halfords professional but I’ve got a feeling I sheared the torx bit that I need and never got it replaced! Lifetime warranty if you have the receipt!

Halfords will have an electronic record. Did you buy it on a card? Turn up with the broken bits, your card and rough date purchased and ask them to sort it.

 

[Tom-B]

I’ll remember that in future cheers, couple of issues... I bought the toolbox circa 2001, and I broke that bit years ago.. it’s long gone.
Tbh I think that’s the only piece out of a supersize toolkit that’s ever broken!

Just gonna bite the bullet and replace it this time, along with the 1/4” 10mm that’s gone walkies.

It would seem that there’s been a lot of MLs involved in front end collisions.. all breakers on ebay have had the parts that I need sold already.
Currently looking at buying a whole rad pack, slam panels and bumper beam assembly as it may be easier and cheaper.