Shudder fix

OP
Atlas01copco

Atlas01copco

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I know someone who used a shudder cure and has since done 15k with no issues at all , he did however add 2 doses


I’ve heard you can use up to two tubes

I’ve now come up with a solution to administer this additive

If I’m successful I’ll post back
 

Jim2

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1st Merc 2010 E Class W212 2.1 CDI. 2nd Merc 2014 E Class W212 220 CDI
All I’ve asked if ANYONE could tell me how I could administer this
If it has the 722.6 5 Speed Transmission,,,,,its no problem. Just beside the engine oil dipstick ( with engine cover removed) you will see a 2nd dipstick tube, It will have a black plastic cap on it, If it is completely black, then it's original factory fitted...meaning that it has never been opened. If it has a red retainer clip in it, then at some stage, it has been opened for one reason or another. These retainer clips are one off...( generally) and the original clip is black, the replacement being red. You push the clip through with a small screwdriver, don't worry, it cannot get into the box,,,,,it normally slips down the side of the tube, and it's possible to catch it. The cap will then pull off, and you can fit a funnel into the tube, and fill away to your heart's content. Just a word of warning...these boxes are fluid level critical, and fluid temp must be at 80c when checking.
The above info is for the 5 speed boxes...for the one's without the dipstick fitting, I think that you will need to have the car on a lift with the protective under tray's removed, and remove the drain stud on the trans sump. These boxes have a pipe insert where the stud goes, and the level is preset to the height of these insert's...basically when refilling, you pump fluid up into the box, until it overflow's, and spill's out of the pipe. Hope that this is of some help to you...let us know if the additive works. Most ( but not all )of the people here ( myself included ) are a bit skeptical of additive's for transmission's, and with good reason, but hey, you live and learn. Keep us in the loop.
And don't worry too much about the confusion comment, to my way of thinking, a bit of confusion is normal...( for me at any rate ) and I always think a bit about some one who professes to be crystal clear on everything.
 
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Botus

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for want of a more accurate summary in general merc autos ….

all need regular transmission fluid changes at 37k mile, few do it they play up a lot

in fact they play up anyway, adding rodge the bodge additive to filthy transfuid and a blocked filter is not likely to be successful,

on later ones they left out the dip stick so have to play underneath the car, you fill with about the right amount get the whole box to 80C and check / adjust the level
to drain you remove the sump, and always use new bolts coz the old ones snap
until 2005 I believe there's a drain plug on the torque converter allowing you to remove another 3 ltrs of black metallic flith
only use genuine merc fluid

reset adaptions and go for a 100 mile drive after its all settled down with new fluid, then plug into a STAR based set up (merc dealer diagnostics) and check the settings the box is working with. That will tell you if the box is worn out or now OK

known fun

a lot of cars had the transmission oil cooler inside the engine rad... there was a large batch of badly made coolant rads that leaked adding coolant to the box ruining them
dirty fluid rips all the O rings up and then they slip
the lock up clutch inside the torque converter fails giving judder / sensation of slipping
the electro plate (box of tricks linking electronics to hydraulic clutch and band actuation), is a known failure point
oil weeps out of selector rod and seeps dirty trans fluid into the ECU, often resolved by replacement seal and cleaning inside of ECU

if anywhere near tunbirdge wells go see Alexander Foti AMF automotive
 
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mioba

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I read this thread and here is the answer.
SOLVE THE PROBLEM DONT TREAT THE EFECTS.
I need some shudder fix reading that post.
 

d215yq

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1987 W124 300D 280k miles
I read this thread and here is the answer.
SOLVE THE PROBLEM DONT TREAT THE EFECTS.
I need some shudder fix reading that post.

In an ideal world, but maybe OP just needs the car to last another year or so and then it will be scrapped anyway, or maybe he'll plan to spend a lot of money on it properly in the future for whatever reason and so waits til then.

I'm having to decide what to fix on mine now. I may not be very good at just replacing everything, and replacing the minimum, but with this approach the car has lasted 33 yrs and 280k miles and still in daily service (just got me 1100 miles from Spain to UK over this weekend!). I don't know anything else on this forum that's that age/mileage that is still used so one can get reliability and longevity from not fixing every problem and just living with them/mitigating them. I have been to a few mechanics for various oddities and they always suggest fixing the minimum/nothing at all. When I say "but is this perfect, could this fail, maybe this is dangerous, maybe this will cuase other problems" the guys just say if I wanted to replace everything that has some sign of the age/mileage then they can replace everything for more than the cost of a new car...and some of the new parts could fail anyway...

I'm no expert but it sounds like automatic transmission is potentially ruinously expensive and in an older C class may well be 2 or 3 times cost of the vehicle. So it doesn't seem unreasonable to chuck in some anti shudder and hope it makes it good/better for a year or two.
 

Jim2

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1st Merc 2010 E Class W212 2.1 CDI. 2nd Merc 2014 E Class W212 220 CDI
for want of a more accurate summary in general merc autos ….

all need regular transmission fluid changes at 37k mile, few do it they play up a lot

in fact they play up anyway, adding rodge the bodge additive to filthy transfuid and a blocked filter is not likely to be successful,

on later ones they left out the dip stick so have to play underneath the car, you fill with about the right amount get the whole box to 80C and check / adjust the level
to drain you remove the sump, and always use new bolts coz the old ones snap
until 2005 I believe there's a drain plug on the torque converter allowing you to remove another 3 ltrs of black metallic flith
only use genuine merc fluid

reset adaptions and go for a 100 mile drive after its all settled down with new fluid, then plug into a STAR based set up (merc dealer diagnostics) and check the settings the box is working with. That will tell you if the box is worn out or now OK

known fun

a lot of cars had the transmission oil cooler inside the engine rad... there was a large batch of badly made coolant rads that leaked adding coolant to the box ruining them
dirty fluid rips all the O rings up and then they slip
the lock up clutch inside the torque converter fails giving judder / sensation of slipping
the electro plate (box of tricks linking electronics to hydraulic clutch and band actuation), is a known failure point
oil weeps out of selector rod and seeps dirty trans fluid into the ECU, often resolved by replacement seal and cleaning inside of ECU

if anywhere near tunbirdge wells go see Alexander Foti AMF automotive

Seems like a whole lot of bother just to physically check the oil level in a 7 ( or other ) speed trans. Can the level be read with the iCarsoft or does it have to be STAR? Any dash warning light's if the level gets low?
 

ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
In an ideal world, but maybe OP just needs the car to last another year or so and then it will be scrapped anyway, or maybe he'll plan to spend a lot of money on it properly in the future for whatever reason and so waits til then.

I'm having to decide what to fix on mine now. I may not be very good at just replacing everything, and replacing the minimum, but with this approach the car has lasted 33 yrs and 280k miles and still in daily service (just got me 1100 miles from Spain to UK over this weekend!). I don't know anything else on this forum that's that age/mileage that is still used so one can get reliability and longevity from not fixing every problem and just living with them/mitigating them. I have been to a few mechanics for various oddities and they always suggest fixing the minimum/nothing at all. When I say "but is this perfect, could this fail, maybe this is dangerous, maybe this will cuase other problems" the guys just say if I wanted to replace everything that has some sign of the age/mileage then they can replace everything for more than the cost of a new car...and some of the new parts could fail anyway...

I'm no expert but it sounds like automatic transmission is potentially ruinously expensive and in an older C class may well be 2 or 3 times cost of the vehicle. So it doesn't seem unreasonable to chuck in some anti shudder and hope it makes it good/better for a year or two.


on an old car worth b/a yr spot on.
there comes a point where chucking good money at a car worth a grand is just daft, just drive it till u cant then get shot of it.unless its likely to be worth the attn in just a few yrs if not and yr into that car type ,yr better of buying a tidy version later on.
 
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