Flat Battery, can't open vehicle

[Tony Dyson]

A thought just crossed my mind! that having turned the Emergency Key 90° and (theoretically) unlocked your car, is it possible that the corrosion within the door providing the resistance to the unlocking procedure is preventing the button from rising from the door interior giving you the impression it is still locked?

Have you tried the door handle while applying firm pressure to the key?

 

[tommymac]

Not all smart chargers are the same, My NOCO charger has a facility to provide a 12vdc supply mode whatever it is connected to and I'm sure there are others capable of doing so. There is also a Repair mode to regenerate completely discharged batteries but the battery needs to be disconnected from the car for this procedure.

I went for a very heavy duty smart charger, as my then girlfriend had a GL Class Mercedes with a huge diesel engine. I went for the Arteck D29, which has a capacity of 18000mAh, and can start cars up to 7L petrol, 6.5L diesel. Not sure if any of this makes any difference.

 

[tommymac]

A thought just crossed my mind! that having turned the Emergency Key 90° and (theoretically) unlocked your car, is it possible that the corrosion within the door providing the resistance to the unlocking procedure is preventing the button from rising from the door interior giving you the impression it is still locked?

Have you tried the door handle while applying firm pressure to the key?

Yes, tried that. Someone else (on this thread I think) suggested a pumping action on the handle while turning the key. None of this worked.

Was reading some manuals this morning, admittedly for the US models, that suggested counter-clockwise turn for unlocking, which is the opposite of what has been suggested here. Either way, neither way does anything for me.

 

[rorywquin]

Not all smart chargers are the same, My NOCO charger has a facility to provide a 12vdc supply mode whatever it is connected to and I'm sure there are others capable of doing so. There is also a Repair mode to regenerate completely discharged batteries but the battery needs to be disconnected from the car for this procedure.

CTEK chargers can also operate in "power supply mode" handy when replacing a battery so that you don't lose all your settings. Also has "recondition"!

 

[drmw]

Here is one way. Remove the rear number plate. Drill a hole here (right one - do not do the left) https://photobucket.com/gallery/use...GF0aDpTTDU1LzIwMTUwNjE4XzE4NDQ1MS5qcGc=/?ref= and here https://photobucket.com/gallery/use...GF0aDpTTDU1LzIwMTUwNjE4XzE4NDQ0My5qcGc=/?ref= when drilled, pull down the rod - boot open

 

[EmilysDad]

Yeah, dead certain. 90 degrees either way, and no movement at all.

OK

 

[EmilysDad]

well it didn't work in my case few months ago when I was asking for forum members assist.
as you mention, I was convinced that the metal blade will break eventually but still I wasn't able to unlock the door.
I can remember that during my attempts to unlock the door, only at the first attempt I heard a electronic noise from the door lock and saw a slight kick of the door pin but didn't do any difference. I then tried another 20 times with no success.
On the other hand, the boot opened with the first attempt.

Use it or lose I suppose

I do try to remember to use the manual lock every now & then

 

[tommymac]

Ok, so where are we?

- there are reservations about whether my smart charger will work. If not, I guess the 'helpful' neighbour owes me one, and kindly donates his battery to connect to the starter (which I'm still not certain that I'll be able to find!)
- there are reservations about the tools that I might be buying from Halfords. Not sure which of the tools these are. Perhaps I can source some of these from argos, as my local sainsbury has an argos counter, although stock of the right items might be questionable. Can we elaborate more upon what the reservations are, and with which item?
- poking screwdrivers and pulling wires through the radiator grille has been deemed likely to cause further issues
- I'm still convinced that the bonnet release must be capable of being accessed from outside the cockpit. It is a fully manual process. Where can I possible access the wire that runs from the lever in the cockpit, so that I can yank it? If I can removed the guards in the wheel arch, would this help?

Any further thoughts would be kindly appreciated.


Thanks in advance

 

[drmw]

#65

 

[RhodieBill]

Tonymac. I haven't read all the post - are you still locked out?

There is a special way to open the boot with the key, (I've had a couple of CLK's).
1) Push the key in all the way.
2) Turn anti-clockwise, (to the left) 45 degrees,
3) Push the Key in. The Boot should pop open at this stage.

If you have already tried this I apologise.

 

[tommymac]

Here is one way. Remove the rear number plate. Drill a hole here (right one - do not do the left) https://photobucket.com/gallery/use...GF0aDpTTDU1LzIwMTUwNjE4XzE4NDQ1MS5qcGc=/?ref= and here https://photobucket.com/gallery/use...GF0aDpTTDU1LzIwMTUwNjE4XzE4NDQ0My5qcGc=/?ref= when drilled, pull down the rod - boot open

thanks drmw but, as discussed elsewhere on the thread, battery is under the bonnet, so I don't believe that getting into the boot will assist

 

[drmw]

Sh1t - I read it as an R230 - apologies

 

[tommymac]

Tonymac. I haven't read all the post - are you still locked out?

There is a special way to open the boot with the key, (I've had a couple of CLK's).
1) Push the key in all the way.
2) Turn anti-clockwise, (to the left) 45 degrees,
3) Push the Key in. The Boot should pop open at this stage.

If you have already tried this I apologise.

Hi Bill, yes, still locked out I'm afraid. 45 degrees in the boot is about the max, but haven't tried turning and pushing. I'll do that now. Still not sure this will be any help, as it is the bonnet that I need to get to. Let's see what is there though...

 

[tommymac]

Hi Bill, yes, still locked out I'm afraid. 45 degrees in the boot is about the max, but haven't tried turning and pushing. I'll do that now. Still not sure this will be any help, as it is the bonnet that I need to get to. Let's see what is there though...

Nothing. With a pair of pliers for leverage (desperation setting in now, I'm likely to do more damage!), I managed to get to around 60 degrees, but can hear no unlocking, and button doesn't depress

 

[RhodieBill]

The other option is to find a permanent live to the battery - I'm sure there is one connected to the Starter. You just need to get enough power to the battery so you can unlock the car.... I am sure there is one under the car after you remove the undertray. That is about your only option bar breaking a window..... Sorry.

 

[tommymac]

The other option is to find a permanent live to the battery - I'm sure there is one connected to the Starter. You just need to get enough power to the battery so you can unlock the car.... I am sure there is one under the car after you remove the undertray. That is about your only option bar breaking a window..... Sorry.

Thanks Bill. Yes, all set to do that today, and was going to go and get the jack and stands from Halfords in order to get under the car; someone expressed reservations about Halfords though, so still waiting to hear what the reservations are in order that I decide my next steps; I have my coat and shoes on, ready to go and get them! Breaking a window has been a consideration, and this might still be the quickest and cheapest option. Thanks again.

 

[M80]

The other option is to find a permanent live to the battery - I'm sure there is one connected to the Starter. You just need to get enough power to the battery so you can unlock the car.... I am sure there is one under the car after you remove the undertray. That is about your only option bar breaking a window..... Sorry.

Wish I'd have thought of that.

 

[Wighty]

Thanks Bill. Yes, all set to do that today, and was going to go and get the jack and stands from Halfords in order to get under the car; someone expressed reservations about Halfords though, so still waiting to hear what the reservations are in order that I decide my next steps; I have my coat and shoes on, ready to go and get them! Breaking a window has been a consideration, and this might still be the quickest and cheapest option. Thanks again.

Did you say where you live , just in case you are someone's round the corner neighbour ?

 

[RhodieBill]

Thanks Bill. Yes, all set to do that today, and was going to go and get the jack and stands from Halfords in order to get under the car; someone expressed reservations about Halfords though, so still waiting to hear what the reservations are in order that I decide my next steps; I have my coat and shoes on, ready to go and get them! Breaking a window has been a consideration, and this might still be the quickest and cheapest option. Thanks again.

I bought, or rather got bought a 2T Jack and Stand from Halfords. The Jack worked fine for the first year then it slowly started losing pressure and would slowly let the car down. But it was enough to get the Stands in place.

The Stands are no problem, been using them for a good 6/7 years with no issues. Even left my S500 up on them for a few days whilst I was repairing the Airmatic Pump.

Seen here: (It looks strange because the Rear used to self-level itself).

 

[tommymac]

I bought, or rather got bought a 2T Jack and Stand from Halfords. The Jack worked fine for the first year then it slowly started losing pressure and would slowly let the car down. But it was enough to get the Stands in place.

The Stands are no problem, been using them for a good 6/7 years with no issues. Even left my S500 up on them for a few days whilst I was repairing the Airmatic Pump.

Seen here: (It looks strange because the Rear used to self-level itself).

Great. Yes, went for that one in the end, was losing the day and couldn’t wait any more.

Got the first guard off, but can’t see what I think I should be looking for, guess the second one needs to come off too?