Anyone know how to fully turn off safety on an SL63?

SLBOB

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Fancy burning a little rubber, perhaps a bit of drifting. On those odd occasions would like to turn off all the safety options. Anyone know how?

:)
 

V6Matty

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You have to go into dyno mode via the cluster, not sure on your car exactly but my 211 used to be key to position 2, press the cluster reset button 3 times quickly and then your into the hidden menus, just a case of searching through them to find dyno mode
 

flowrider

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SL55 dyno mode, might be the same on the SL63.......

Ignition on in 1st position
Hold cluster reset button for 40 seconds until you here a ping
Press bottom left right steering wheel button
Press top left up steering wheel button
Select "On"
 
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SLBOB

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someone has too much spare cash to waste on rear tyres me thinks :rolleyes::D

I live in Henley, Oxforshire. So many pot holes here I've never worn a set out - yet!
 
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SLBOB

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SL55 dyno mode, might be the same on the SL63.......

Ignition on in 1st position
Hold cluster reset button for 40 seconds until you here a ping
Press bottom left right steering wheel button
Press top left up steering wheel button
Select "On"

Thanks for offering up that but it seems its differant between these cars. Quite Frustrating. Thanks also to V6Matty.
 

Wighty

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Thanks for offering up that but it seems its differant between these cars. Quite Frustrating. Thanks also to V6Matty.
Anything in the cars manual buddy ?
 
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SLBOB

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Anything in the cars manual buddy ?
Not that I could see, guess they really don't want me disabling the safety systems :(
 
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SLBOB

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Yep looked at a couple of video's on YT. Sadly whilst I do get a menu its not the same and doesn't have the required option. I did look at all the options it did provide but nothing related to letting the car be all that it can be :(.
 

flowrider

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Yep looked at a couple of video's on YT. Sadly whilst I do get a menu its not the same and doesn't have the required option. I did look at all the options it did provide but nothing related to letting the car be all that it can be :(.
Maybe, as yours is a Brabus, the option has been removed. With that amount of power the car would be very unsafe to drive and dyno mode is really only for dyno testing.
 
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SLBOB

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Maybe, as yours is a Brabus, the option has been removed. With that amount of power the car would be very unsafe to drive and dyno mode is really only for dyno testing.
I think you are correct. I know that isnt for the streets but I fancied another track day. Not knowing will save the cash as the last time, no brabus, I warped all four tyres, boiled the brake fluid and ended up limping home. 4K to fix the car. II'll go to the beach instead.

Cheers
 

Conor

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I think you are correct. I know that isnt for the streets but I fancied another track day. Not knowing will save the cash as the last time, no brabus, I warped all four tyres, boiled the brake fluid and ended up limping home. 4K to fix the car. II'll go to the beach instead.

Cheers
I must admit my confusion to this.

Why did this all happen? Aren't AMG cars race inspired, with many uprated parts?
 

V6Matty

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I must admit my confusion to this.

Why did this all happen? Aren't AMG cars race inspired, with many uprated parts?
Push any car hard enough, including track day cars, and you will end up trashing it. Why do you think most race cars (think touring cars or other closed wheel racers) might only last 1 season on an engine, they are pushed hard.
 

LostKiwi

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^^^this^^^

When I was involved as a race mechanic in NZ the guy I worked for competed in Mini 7 (amongst other classes).
We rebuilt the engine every 3rd or 4th race meeting.
When we were rallying he started with a Toyota factory built Starlet with full steel engine (rods, crank etc). It used to redline at 10k rpm (remembering it was a pushrod engine). That would get mid season rebuilds. That car used to eat gearboxes too. We would typically change a gearbox every event (20 minutes from car stopping to car driving off - bear in mind everything was red hot on arrival and usually dripping in mud). On one event we had to withdraw after changing the gearbox 3 times and needing a fourth...
Motor racing is hard on equipment. The more power the harder it can be.
 

Blobcat

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I must admit my confusion to this.

Why did this all happen? Aren't AMG cars race inspired, with many uprated parts?
“Race inspired” and “Track Car” are not the same at all. Brakes and suspension would be the first things requiring changing as they’re very much the limiting factors. What makes a good fast road car isn’t the same as a track car.

I always liked that it said in the owners manual of my 911 not to fit slicks for track use - reasoning is the ultra high grip in the bends can starve one side of the engine of oil...

I went through a set of pads and the tyres very much worn when I did a track day.

A 911 is more track focused than most AMG’s straight from the box but you can soon go down the GT3 route if you get the bug. Problem is then you think about the cost of it and don’t push that hard so you don’t bin it.
 

Conor

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Hmm.. fair enough.

I must be on a fools errand then.. after maxing out my quota for road cars I have been gingerly looking at track day cars :/
 

V6Matty

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Not really, you can have a track day car but you have to remember you can’t treat it like a road car, so you will change oil, brakes, fluids, tyres often (my cousin has to do the above after every race in the MX5 series he runs in), as well as other parts of the suspension and drive train needing constant attention and adjustments for wear.
Racing or trackdaying (I know not a real word) is for those that can afford to blow anything from a few thousand a year on having fun, even the small privateer racers you see all have sponsorship for a reason, it’s an expensive game
 

LostKiwi

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Hmm.. fair enough.

I must be on a fools errand then.. after maxing out my quota for road cars I have been gingerly looking at track day cars :/

It's a slippery slope.
If you want to be competitive you have to spend serious money, but it's hard not to become competitive.
Even in classes where cars are 'standard production' you can spend a lot of money. For example engine builds by professional race engine builders will perhaps gain you a few horsepower over the competition but cost a lot of money. Then you get into diminishing returns. The first 10% additional power might cost £1000. The next 10% might cost £2000. The following 10% will likely be £4000 and the one after that £10,000.
Those are just initial costs.
Allow the same again per season for rebuilds, breakages, consumables etc ...

If course if you keep everything standard(ish) you can have great fun and it be relatively affordable but do bear in mind consumables will cost a lot.
 

Conor

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Yea fair enough. I don't think I would be into competition.. it would be awesome but super expensive in the best case scenario.

I love the idea of having a track car but would probably only use it a few times a year really. The Renault 197 Clio I rented a while back is about 650 a day to rent.. that is probably the most cost effective and what I plan on using this year to see how I get on.

(Sorry to hijack thread)
 

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