Garage Rebuild

Kev555

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Good job if they give it a good wackering as seems to be in photos 00slk. Thats crusher run reclaimed hardcore by the looks of it with fair amount of soil or sand substrate in it. Should be ok if its wackered plenty or best thing for tightening it plenty of rain between now and plastic going down. With 6" of concrete and prob reinforcing, I dont think cracks will appear even if I am a bit concerned about the quality of the hardcore. Laser gets it accurate for ordering concrete amount and even Depth:D
 

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Dont think membrane is critical here (although good practice) if ground is fairly dry which looks the case unless a radon barrier is required. Mostly I find membrane is used more to stop concrete drying out too quick and cracking in warmer weather. 6" of power floated concrete wont show water topside unless theres a high water table at property location. Open the garage door in damp weather and a concrete floor will be soaking on topside more likely from moisture in the air like my own.
 
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00slk

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EmilysMum used to work for the council at the refuse collection bit .... where the bin men worked.

She had an email returned to her inbox as it contained unsuitable content :confused: It took a few of them some time to realise that the word 'hardcore' was the problem! :D:D:D
The word was obviously being used as above!

Lol........Never occurred to me that there was two ways of spelling, comes from watching too many videos :oops:
 
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Good job if they give it a good wackering as seems to be in photos 00slk. Thats crusher run reclaimed hardcore by the looks of it with fair amount of soil or sand substrate in it. Should be ok if its wackered plenty or best thing for tightening it plenty of rain between now and plastic going down. With 6" of concrete and prob reinforcing, I dont think cracks will appear even if I am a bit concerned about the quality of the hardcore. Laser gets it accurate for ordering concrete amount and even Depth:D

They ran the digger over it a good few times and then used that thacker thing, very noisey to compact it all further down.
The plastic sheet was put down last night ready for Monday, it has been rained on over night so missed the extra pack down, hopefully the sheet cover in rain water will help? I am going to have a smooth floor in the garage, makes it a lot easier to manoeuvre cars on trolley jacks and wheel dollies to move about by oneself :D

20201122_091851.jpg


I presume you will be blinding the hard core layer with sand before putting the dpm down.....

There was a bit of sand mixed in with the hard core (got it right now with a gap between d and c) :D so guessing that will be okay?
I don't know too much about building so leaving it all up too everyone else. Mind you, you would have thought that I should have learned something by now after having and been around while there have been building projects going on all through my life. Even my Dad who was a Fitter and Turner could build houses, I was led down the wrong garden path at a very early stage by my uncle who was part of the mechanical draftsman team who designed the Auckland harbour bridge in New Zealand. (My Mum still has the original plans) He got me into cars, albeit American cars of the early '50's and '60's :cool: And look where I ended up........MB :shock:
 

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I'd love a copy of those.....They had to replace a strut the other day cause a truck got tipped by the wind and hit one!
 

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If you’re getting re-bar you could always go non-metallic...

BE009532-04E5-463D-8E62-42D7BBE35639.jpeg

It’s not exactly the cheap option...:rolleyes: and you definitely need gloves when handling it as the fibreglass fibres get straight into your hands.
Non magnetic though and can take some very serious weight loading :cool:
 

Frontstep

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if its only used as a part time use garage I would buy an Infrasun:D
Just going with a plastic sheet before the concrete is poured Frontstep, did think about putting underfloor heating in there but with the 2 poster going in and maybe other items that will require drilling into the floor we decided against that. A minimum of 150mm concrete, it is double brick and I still have the option of drywall insulating once the build is finished.



Thanks Dave, most of the pains will be coming from the wallet, lol. One thing for sure, all of use will be 3 to 4 years older :D
It does look quite good on the plans, hoping the finished product will be the same. The builders are now talking about knocking down the concrete block building which was supposed to have been incorporated into the build for extra space, and making it wider. :rolleyes: ................Like that will happen!!



It's not too late and very cheap to insulate the slab at this stage a simple layer of polystyrene will suffice and you will appreciate it.
If it was mine I would do it.
It not only keeps it warmer but drier.
Cold lumps of concrete attract condensate.
 

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I quite like this remote working, especially on a nice simple build :)

In my head there is a pit with pump and power.
The slab is reinforced where the ramp goes and in the floor is another drain for the inevitable clean-ups already installed.
 
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It's not too late and very cheap to insulate the slab at this stage a simple layer of polystyrene will suffice and you will appreciate it.
If it was mine I would do it.
It not only keeps it warmer but drier.
Cold lumps of concrete attract condensate.

I am so sure I have seen lumps of polystyrene used before on floor before the concrete has been poured?? Or am I dreaming it. I will talk with the builder on Monday and see what he says about this, it won't take much to drop some polystyrene in before the cement :)
 

EmilysDad

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I am so sure I have seen lumps of polystyrene used before on floor before the concrete has been poured?? Or am I dreaming it. I will talk with the builder on Monday and see what he says about this, it won't take much to drop some polystyrene in before the cement :)

they built a few sub-stations at the back of work last year. They appeared to fill the footing with a lot of large polystyrene blocks before the concrete floor was poured ..... only viewed from our brew area :D
 

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Normally, you design for the insulation so you can set your levels correctly. 50mm Polystyrene sheet was the norm but this means your finished slab level will be 2" higher.
You either lay it on the sand blinded hardcore and then pour the slab or when building houses you can lay the polystyrene sheets on the slab and cover with V313 chipboard, not forgetting the DPM...
 
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Normally, you design for the insulation so you can set your levels correctly. 50mm Polystyrene sheet was the norm but this means your finished slab level will be 2" higher.
You either lay it on the sand blinded hardcore and then pour the slab or when building houses you can lay the polystyrene sheets on the slab and cover with V313 chipboard, not forgetting the DPM...

And in turn I'd have to have the roof higher too as I can't loose any height inside as the roof top at the centre can not be the same height as the top point of our Bungalow which is 2 storey. Plus the height is needed for the 2 poster and lorry.
But I'll still mention the polystyrene to my builder.
 

Frontstep

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And in turn I'd have to have the roof higher too as I can't loose any height inside as the roof top at the centre can not be the same height as the top point of our Bungalow which is 2 storey. Plus the height is needed for the 2 poster and lorry.
But I'll still mention the polystyrene to my builder.


You just need to lose a bit of your crush and run hardcore to get some 50mm 2400mm x 1200mm sheets in.

More would be better but 50mm is reasonable.
 

Kev555

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If you’re getting re-bar you could always go non-metallic...

View attachment 63641

It’s not exactly the cheap option...:rolleyes: and you definitely need gloves when handling it as the fibreglass fibres get straight into your hands.
Non magnetic though and can take some very serious weight loading :cool:
Or as another cheaper option is to go with fibre in the concrete, really good job at combating cracks and adds floor strength. Ask your builder 00slk it only costs a few quid more a metre from memory and shouldn't really affect a polished finish on the floor
 
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Kev555

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I am so sure I have seen lumps of polystyrene used before on floor before the concrete has been poured?? Or am I dreaming it. I will talk with the builder on Monday and see what he says about this, it won't take much to drop some polystyrene in before the cement :)
Afraid its too late now as levels have been set for concrete. To add insulation now would require two inches less of concrete on the floor at minimum. Builders will add to price re-adjusting floor height for insulation.
 
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